Two Appliances Dead!

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if the arc was to ground like it looked like what happen if the ground was not very good and it shorted with not much amperage 3 seconds to blow the breaker if it was like 100 amps or so it could trip very quickly. so i think that could do it because the voltage was not a smooth sign wave.
as far as the aluminum wire if a inspector is going to look at it i use anti ox. if not i tighten up to almost strip tight. honestly every time i come to a problem with a aluminum wire if the anti ox was used it failed. if it is tighten with a torq wrench it comes loose. the term that the code uses is cold flow. i have never in my 35 years experience ever had one of my wires go bad.
 
if the arc was to ground like it looked like what happen if the ground was not very good and it shorted with not much amperage 3 seconds to blow the breaker if it was like 100 amps or so it could trip very quickly. so i think that could do it because the voltage was not a smooth sign wave.
as far as the aluminum wire if a inspector is going to look at it i use anti ox. if not i tighten up to almost strip tight. honestly every time i come to a problem with a aluminum wire if the anti ox was used it failed. if it is tighten with a torq wrench it comes loose. the term that the code uses is cold flow. i have never in my 35 years experience ever had one of my wires go bad.
It the arc was not to ground. My guess was a bad connection. Cord and appliance were on separate lugs. Good or bad design? Seems like they have changed it. Single post now. No AL wire here just Al in the terminal block.

Another $240 to replace the warrantied board. I’m really in favor of right to repair laws. If the companies had to make parts available direct to consumers we would all be better off.

I paid a a plumber to diagnose what i already knew. Then another plumber to follow decent install directions to make sure all the color coded wires were plugged in and set 1 parameter on the new board. It took 7 days to fix.
 
unbelievable 7 days. i think it was two years ago some one else put a post up about his samsung refrig. i took him a week to get the board. until then no fridg. i too am in favor of the right to repair. my truck and cars have no one but me working on them. the companys keep making it harder and harder to work on and they all have specialty tools now. a good friend wanted his spark plugs changed on his 2011 outback. 6 cylinder they didn't even give me enough space for a spark plug socket and ratchet had to break loose with the socket the finger them out. glad it didn't have a warped thread.
 
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Unit just threw an error code. I enter the service menus to find the board does not have the correct settings for this unit. It was listed in the instructions THREE TIMES!! I’m pissed. I called a National chain because none of the plumbers I have used would have the knowledge to fix this. $480 later I’m fixing it myself!!! I don’t have enough experience to to know temp sensors should be reading given the ambient conditions.

So I set the correct ID and reset the error codes after verifying that the compressor turns on. I’m half tempted to send them a $250 bill.
 
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Yup that's why i'll youtube search any repair to death that i don't know how to do. The waiting time waste and aggravations with repair guys make it better to just figure it out yourself.

And yes send them the bill.
 
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Don't know which one you have but i bet it's at least similar.
 
Don't know which one you have but i bet it's at least similar.

I have a Bradford White /geo spring. Install isn’t hard it’s all color codes and the replacement board had good instructions. I couldn’t get a warrantied board directly from BW. Only place online was selling the board assembly for $1000.

The AO smith look easier to replace All the relays are on the WH board.
 
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Reading about the sensitivity of so many appiances and devices reminds me that I bought a surge protector that I never installed and should. I filled the last of the100 amp Square D panel‘s space with a breaker for domestic water heat pump and one to make a separate circuit to the barn. There was no space for the surge protector. Today I saw a video online on installing a surge protector where all panel spaces were filled. A single, apparently two pole breaker that doubled up and served both the original circuits and the surge protector was used. It was made by Seimens. I don’t know what it’s called or if this is available in something squareD and Levitron, the protector I have, compatible.

The other option looks to be be to use tandem breakers to make space and to connect the surge protector.

I have pretty limited understanding of whole house surge protectors and don’t know if I bought the correct one, a fifty dollar Levitron (rated to 3400 joules). It requires two single pole 20 amp breakers. I got it after a power line to a new residence was installed across the road and going near the hill top and sharing a transformer. While thunderstorms are infrequent lightning was on my mind.
 
The surge protector I have takes the place of two circuit breakers. It has its own breakers built in so if you're replacing full size breakers, you're not losing anything (though mine is limited to supplying two 110 circuits-not a 220). If the surge protector is damaged, or I guess they eventually wear out, it trips the breakers to alert you to inspect the unit and if the good-to-go leds are no longer lit, you should plan to replace it. They want you to connect items you'll notice if the go out to the surge protector breakers. If your HPWH is 110 that would do. You'll never miss that first cold shower!!

It's been through maybe 10 years of lightning storms and I haven't had to replace it yet. I did a lot of lightning protection upgrades in the same time frame, so I can't say it alone was responsible, but I've had a lot less damage to things since. The only things that I've had trouble with since have been things like my internet radio and garage door openers that have their own antennas or long wiring that could function as such, so they probably picked up the lightning energy and damaged themselves.

This might be it: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Siemens...ed-Circuit-Breaker-RBPU-QSA2020SPDP/202562776
 
square D is a better buy even with the circuit breaker as a extra buy. also there is a paper glued to the inside of the door to your panel. the small picture has lines. top left is 1 bottom right is how many circuits the panel will by code carry. if it's 20 spaces physically and the bottom number is 24, then your panel can by code hold 24 circuits via the duplex breakers. usually the panel is if ok with duplex breakers all mounted on the bottom. the 240 volt circuit breakers count as 2 circuits. so if you make a claim to the power company and they find the panel has 26 circuits and the panel is only good for 24 then they don't cover it and tell the inspector about it and he looks for a permit for a panel change. just putting it out there in case someone doesn't know what i'm talking about.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D-80-kA-Home-Electronics-Protective-Device-HEPD-HEPD80/203540660
 
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square D is a better buy even with the circuit breaker as a extra buy. also there is a paper glued to the inside of the door to your panel. the small picture has lines. top left is 1 bottom right is how many circuits the panel will by code carry. if it's 20 spaces physically and the bottom number is 24, then your panel can by code hold 24 circuits via the duplex breakers. usually the panel is if ok with duplex breakers all mounted on the bottom. the 240 volt circuit breakers count as 2 circuits. so if you make a claim to the power company and they find the panel has 26 circuits and the panel is only good for 24 then they don't cover it and tell the inspector about it and he looks for a permit for a panel change. just putting it out there in case someone doesn't know what i'm talking about.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D-80-kA-Home-Electronics-Protective-Device-HEPD-HEPD80/203540660
this one has been on my list to get installed for two years. Need to get it done.