United States stove company 5502M problems

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Hatepropane

New Member
Nov 9, 2014
24
Scottville, MI
Hi I recently purchased a United States stove company 5502M "king" from my local tractor supply. I've ran it for almost a week now and it's been heating great and I love the stove. Only issues I'm having is the glass gets dirty quickly after about 5 hours of running. Also, I seem to have some glowing pellets fly out of the pot. I run it on auto all the time and on heat setting 1. It has the newer inducer that's modulates up and down instead of running continuously
 
THe pro's will chime in before to long so dont worry, however im pretty sure as for the glass...thats a fight you'll prolly never win. Ive read SO many threads about dirty glass that its unreal. lol These things are NOT like a wood stove with a glass door. on a stove with a dirty door it means your burning wet wood or not hot enough..on the pellet stoves its just seems to be nature of em. my buddy has a really super nice harman that he paid A LOT for, and it does the same thing..sucks yes i know. it'd be cool if they stayed clean. haha.

as for pellets hopping out, sounds like the combustion blower might be to high sometimes. Might be nature of the beast since its on auto? Like i said, the pro's will step in im sure and help ya figure it out. Ive got an older 6039 and i love it so far (gonna need a new board soon tho...) so im worried about changing mine cuz im used to this old one lol
 
On the door check to see if you have a 4-5" gap in the window gasket at the center bottom part. If not cut one out about 4" center bottom this will create a good air wash and help keep the glass cleaner.
 
Yeah should be a 4" gap in the gasket material
 
I'll take a picture later to make sure I'm cutting in the right place.. Looks like they had the metal piece cut that goes over the gasket but never cut the actually gasket
 
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Yah pictures needed for sure. Will this help with mine also???!!???!!!?? Lol
 
If you are running full auto on HR-1 the glass will get black in mere hours. If you need to run on HR-1 for extended time periods, I really suggest setting the Draft Fan to 3 manually. Mine has been running for days like this and the glass just has a slight (and normal) haze to it like when running on higher HR settings. Also be sure to clear the gasket away from the airwash slot as suggested. It makes a huge difference.

Owen1508 - Is there a way to change the programmed DF setting for HR-1 so that one does not have to set it manually? I really want to hook up this t-stat, but the glass getting black so fast keeps me from doing it. If I could change the programmed DF setting for HR-1, then I would be a happy camper.
 
Draft fan down arrow and Aux down arrow at the same time. The range is 0-500. 500 being 100% cap. and 0 being 0% I'd try just moving it at 10-20 at a time.
 
Correct me if I'm
Wrong, but turning up the draft fan will result in more heat going out the chimney, thus being less efficient?
It can.....the idea is to get the right balance. if the flame is orange and lazy...you'll need more air
If it is white hot then too much.
 
hmm...must be different then mine assumingly then? i know the board is obviously but was just curious about the glass. lol so far i love mine, gonna milk out this old board as long as possible. ive learned it pretty well.
 
hmm...must be different then mine assumingly then? i know the board is obviously but was just curious about the glass. lol so far i love mine, gonna milk out this old board as long as possible. ive learned it pretty well.
That 6039 before the manual draft control was a great unit
 
Yeah mine is getting the orange flame.. Guess I'll need to adjust it
Orange to yellow is good as long as you are not seeing soot or black smoke coming off the flame. If you adjust it I would do a small adjustment. Is the flame moving or lazy?
 
That 6039 before the manual draft control was a great unit
so far i agree! lol ive only had to take it to heat range 5 so far. we had a few nights that were in the 20's here and it kept house at 71 even withotu plastic on windows. Now they're all plastic covered and we got some 20's coming real soon. Time will tell in this old dump! lol im loving the crap outta it FOR SURE!
 
I guess it's more of a yellow then a orange.. The draft motor goes on and off so it seems that when it almost gets to a lazy flame the draft motor kicks in
 
sorry the glass is dirty.. This is about 24hrs of operation so didn't do to bad this time. You can see how the flame surges from the draft motor going up and down.
 
This is what my 6039 looks like after one 40# bag on Hr-1.
IMG_0981.JPG
From what I've read dirty glass seems to be a U.S. Stove trait. I would be happier if my stove had a solid door with one little sight window right above the air wash.
 
This is what my 6039 looks like after one 40# bag on Hr-1.
View attachment 143920
From what I've read dirty glass seems to be a U.S. Stove trait. I would be happier if my stove had a solid door with one little sight window right above the air wash.
Not really true. I burned a 6041 from fall 2009 til spring 2014 glass stayed clean. This year have a 5500m so far good glass. I think with both of these models the air adjustments and installation are key. Learning the air adjustments and dialing in the setting will get the most BTU's per pound and keeping it clean.
 
I guess people with clean glass don't start threads to tell everybody about it :)

I'm new at this too but I've been using a meat thermometer stuck in the room fan vents. Since the amount of pellets that drop into the burn pot is constant and determined by the heat range setting it is going to use the same amount of pellets whether it burns them clean or dirty. I try to adjust it to get the most heat into the room.
 
The feed rates and the combustion air rates are adjusted on the lowest level and highest level only. The in between HR (2-4) are proportioned equally. To adjust the feed rate you press and hold the HR up arrow and Aux up (for high end) and The HR down and Aux down for the low end. These will range depending on the stove from 0.1 to 13.0 plus. They say it's pounds per hour but due to density it's not really so, but is a good number to scale by. You should set the HR1 to the lowest feed rate you can do for shoulder season this way it won't heat you outta the house. The high end should be set for the worst case cold....this setting should only be used for short periods of time not for days. Then adjust the air rate for these setting. As I've said always good to have a little notebook by the stove to track the adjustments and results. When adjusting always try to let the stove run for at least 1 to 2 hours before making any observations. If you have a bright white blow touch flame too much air....orange lazy and sooty is too low. You want to get the flame to just past the lazy orange sooty flame. Ir should move well look orange to yellow and not produce any smoke or black soot off the tip of the flames. This should be right on the sweet spot of getting the most from the unit. If is also good to monitor the temps coming from the output in front and the temps in the flue. Too much air will give you higher flue temps (wasted heat) Best thing is to learn the stove....if at anytime it gets messed with the setting...pressing and holding the Aux up and Aux down arrows at the same time for 3-5 secs will reset the board to factory setting...so it can always be started over.
 
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