us stove live chat

[corey21]

well i went to usstove.com live chat.

Corey : Question
i have a model 2015 wood stove. it has to flue exits at the back. i left the firebrick in place works fine.
stacy : The 2015 should only have one flue which comes out of the top.
Corey : i ment on the baffle burn tubes.
stacy : Okay, what is the question about that?
Corey : can the air flow up and around the bafle instead of straight up.
stacy : It wil be able to as long as your flue is drafting properly.
Corey : so there is no stress done by it flowing like that
stacy : Those units are tested with the baffles, tubes, and insulation blamkets in the top. So no it shouldn’t stress the unit or anything as long as your chimney is creating the proper draft.
Corey : i monitor flue and stove top temps what is the proper stove top temp for secondary combustion. well the ideal temp for that.
stacy : The flue temp needs to stay around 350. That is measuring about 1 ft off the top of the unit.
Corey : okay. but what about the stove top.
stacy : The stove can get sveral hunreds of degrees….but that isn’t what creates the draft. The chimney does so as long as the flue stays at 350 it shoudl be fine.
Corey : i think i see what your saying. i have been hearing that a good stove top temps is 400 to 600.
stacy : Yea the firebox of the unit can reach temps like that. What you need to look at is that fluwe temp though. Anything over 350 by that flue means the unit is getting to hot.
stacy : When that flue drops below 300 - 350 degress that means it is cooling off and could stop drafting good or create creosote.
Corey : oh see. now in the manual it says that the flue should be between 275-500. nothing on stovetop temp.
stacy : Yea the manual isn’t going to tell you anything on the stove top temp. Any wood unit operates based off what the flue is doing. Without that temp on the flue the unit will not burn or exhaust at all properly.
Corey : i see the point now so i monitor both but keep a eye on the flue. so is my stovetop range good though
stacy : Yea your stove top should be heating just right as long as your flue stays around that temp.
Corey : so what is the overfire temp for stove and flue.
stacy : If your flue starts rising over 350 monitor it. If it ever starts getting 450 or higher then your stove is getting to hot.
Corey : okay thank you so much for the help.
stacy : Your welcome

 

[joecool85]

Are all manufacturers like that? I was reading the manual for a few Jotuls I'm looking at and they mention nothing about stack temp, just surface temp.

Yes, I am new to burning wood. So I do have a lot of questions

 

[corey21]

Are all manufacturers like that? I was reading the manual for a few Jotuls I'm looking at and they mention nothing about stack temp, just surface temp.

Yes, I am new to burning wood. So I do have a lot of questions

Most are. my manual says about flue temp but not stove top temp.

 

[joecool85]

Are all manufacturers like that? I was reading the manual for a few Jotuls I'm looking at and they mention nothing about stack temp, just surface temp.

Yes, I am new to burning wood. So I do have a lot of questions

Most are. my manual says about flue temp but not stove top temp.

Maybe I miss-read.

**edit**

Double checked on the F 100 manual. It clearly states to burn between 400-600F surface temp on the top of the stove. Also, as far as overfiring goes, it says that if it or the chimney glows you are over-firing - that means at least 750F !

 

[corey21]

that guy never did say much about stove top temps just flue temps.

 

[begreen]

Are all manufacturers like that? I was reading the manual for a few Jotuls I'm looking at and they mention nothing about stack temp, just surface temp.

Yes, I am new to burning wood. So I do have a lot of questions

It varies with the company. Some say stove some say flue. Some say nothing. :blank:

Steel will start glowing a dull red around 900 degrees. The statement by the US Stove rep that anything over 350F is concerning has to be taken with a bit of understanding and a grain of salt. I would assume that this is with a surface thermometer on single wall pipe which would equate to a probe temp of about 525F. But I would not be worried or surprised if the temp in the flue briefly went up a bit over that when first starting or reloading the stove.

 

[corey21]

Are all manufacturers like that? I was reading the manual for a few Jotuls I'm looking at and they mention nothing about stack temp, just surface temp.

Yes, I am new to burning wood. So I do have a lot of questions

It varies with the company. Some say stove some say flue. Some say nothing. :blank:

Steel will start glowing a dull red around 900 degrees. The statement by the US Stove rep that anything over 350F is concerning has to be taken with a bit of understanding and a grain of salt. I would assume that this is with a surface thermometer on single wall pipe which would equate to a probe temp of about 525F. But I would not be worried or surprised if the temp in the flue briefly went up a bit over that when first starting or reloading the stove.

i monitor with a probe and stove top. the rep would not say hardly any thing about stove top. is it common on startup or reload to go to 1000.

 

[begreen]

No, that's not common. If the flue temps are up to 1000 in the flue, it is too hot. Since the bricks were put back in the baffle, the flue temps are now ok, correct? Did the insulating blanket get put back on top of the bricks too?

 

[corey21]

No, that's not common. If the flue temps are up to 1000 in the flue, it is too hot. Since the bricks were put back in the baffle, the flue temps are now ok, correct? Did the insulating blanket get put back on top of the bricks too?

the baffle has it built in but not on the bricks. i just mounted the conder probe the other day. i have not tried a fire yet not cold enough yet but before i had put the bricks back in place. my surface temps were around 400.

 

[corey21]

i think i now understand why i was not seeing much flame from the burn tubes because all the wood gases was not being forced across the burn tubes. with to exits in the back everything was bypassing the burn tubes.

 

[Pagey]

i think i now understand why i was not seeing much flame from the burn tubes because all the wood gases was not being forced across the burn tubes. with to exits in the back everything was bypassing the burn tubes.

Yes. The baffle is there to block the volatile gases from going straight out the flue. The baffle should provide a continuous area in the top of the stove, forcing the smoke to make sort of an S as it flows up and across the baffle before exiting the smaller space between the end of the baffle and the airwash system above the door. Holes/gaps in the baffle means wasted heat up the flue.

 

[begreen]

i think i now understand why i was not seeing much flame from the burn tubes because all the wood gases was not being forced across the burn tubes. with to exits in the back everything was bypassing the burn tubes.

Besides deflecting the smoke and flame path, the bricks and insulating blanket also keep the firebox hotter. This leads to quicker secondary burn of the wood gas and more complete combustion. The result is a hotter stove and cooler flue.

 

[My Oslo heats my home]

i think i now understand why i was not seeing much flame from the burn tubes because all the wood gases was not being forced across the burn tubes. with to exits in the back everything was bypassing the burn tubes.

Besides deflecting the smoke and flame path, the bricks and insulating blanket also keep the firebox hotter. This leads to quicker secondary burn of the wood gas and more complete combustion. This results in a hotter stove and cooler flue.

In agreeance with Green, the secondary burn keeps the flu temps down. It's actually quite a sight, the flames that you get from the unburned gases.

 

[corey21]

i see what you all saying. now what about stove top temp.

 

[Pagey]

For a plate steel stove, I would say 400-600F is a good range to shoot for.

 

[corey21]

For a plate steel stove, I would say 400-600F is a good range to shoot for.

thank you.

 

[Pagey]

You'll find that your stove top temp varies based on the species you're burning, the size of the load, how loose or packed you have the wood, whether it is loaded north/south or east/west, etc. But, even given all that, you'll also find that it will gravitate towards "cruising" at an average temp most of the time once you've mastered the stove.

My Lopi Endeavor will cruise between 600F and 650F with the blower off on almost every load of wood. The blower will drop that about 100F. Now, how long it holds that cruising temp will be greatly affected by the variables mentioned above, but my stove just seems to settle in at the 600-650F range every time.

 

[corey21]

My last stove would cruise for a long time but that was a coal burner.