Ok I'm in need of some info I am trying to figure out how to install my woodstove and using the existing brick chimney but the chimney was knocked down in the attic when the new roof was put on the house. So my question is can i take stainless flex liner and run it in the chimney the put the flashing end cap on the top of the chimney and then run triple wall out of the roof there is a gap between my roof and the chimney approximately 18in. Would it be to much heat or would it not work at all or hopefully it will work great? Any advise appreciated first timer here pictures of chimney in the attic and a not so good drawing
Using existing chimney
- Thread starter Wickkid
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Yes, it can be done. There is a special top plate for this that also anchors the class A metal chimney. FWIW, I would use double-wall chimney pipe. It has a smaller diameter for a smaller hole in the roof and is better quality.
kennyp2339
Minister of Fire
You will also need a roof kit which consists flashing, the metal boot and cap, remember your 2-3-10 rule. If coming out near the peak of your roof you will need to have the chimney atleast 2 ft higher, or 3ft higher than anything with in 10ft of your chimney cap. If you end up using more than 1 full length of class a outside on the roof then it should be properly braced.
Ok thank you tons so I'm going to run 6" stainless flex up to the opening of the chimney and attach the square anchor flashing on top of the chimney which will hold the flex pipe then run double wall insulated out of the roof then single wall outside. I will have a tee clean out at the bottom by the stove and how much pipe can stick above the roof before you need support ties
Ok sounds good I will do that and that is good to know about the 3 foot because for some reason I thought that was 2 feet above the ten foot
No tou need to get the part made for doing what you want to do. It has a collar on the bottom to attach your flex liner to it then mounts to the masonry and the prefab chimney mounts to it. Typically 5 feet or more needs a support bracket but your chimney manufacturer will give you all of these answers.
Your stove manufacturer will tell you what that distance is as long as the stove is ul listed. If it is not listed the clearance is 36"
It is 2 feet above anything within 10 feet or 3 feet above the roof penetration. Which ever is higher.
So the liner being encased by the brick chimney isn't enough what insulation do I get didn' know they made it like that
Well if you have the required clearances from the outside of the masonry structure to combustible materials you dont absolutly need it but it is still a good idea for performance. But i can see in your pics that you have wood incontact with the chimney so you need insulation. The insulation needs to be listed and approved for use with the liner you choose.
The insulation can be a wrap for the liner or they also sell preinsulated chimney liner that has an outer jacket.
This is an example of the transition anchor plate when used with duraliner
https://woodstovepro.com/chimney-pi...hor-plate-17-x-21-duraplus-9240d-8dp-ap17x21/
Olympia makes a transition anchor plate too. Here it is under the Champion brand name:
http://www.woodlanddirect.com/Chimn...tem-Parts/6-Champion-Masonry-Transition-Plate
a bit more info:
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/transition-from-capped-masonry-chimney-to-class-a.139341/
This is an example of the transition anchor plate when used with duraliner
https://woodstovepro.com/chimney-pi...hor-plate-17-x-21-duraplus-9240d-8dp-ap17x21/
Olympia makes a transition anchor plate too. Here it is under the Champion brand name:
http://www.woodlanddirect.com/Chimn...tem-Parts/6-Champion-Masonry-Transition-Plate
a bit more info:
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/transition-from-capped-masonry-chimney-to-class-a.139341/
Woody Stover
Minister of Fire
If it's a straight shot up the chimney maybe you could use insulated rigid liner instead of flex.
The existing brick chimney doesn' have any flues in it so I will more than likely need an insulation around the pipe and thank you for that information on the adapters I tried to see if perlite would be ok as a insulation for the liner in the chimney but there seems to be mixed opinions about it in the threads
Well I thought the same but I am trying to save my bank account a little and all I could find was way more expensive to stay with stainless this is going to be a lot as is but it Will still be better than 2700 dollars a winter in propane
Perlite is not an approved chimney liner insulation. There are pour in products but they all have cement added so they dont settle.
Not really but it is much harder to do correctly. It does help stabalize old deteriorated chimneys though
Woody Stover
Minister of Fire
Right, that's how I would look at it, "I'm saving money no matter what I buy!"
That said, if you can pony up the cash for a heavy duty liner now it will pay off later in longevity, not to mention the peace of mind..priceless. 
maple1
Minister of Fire
Woody Stover
Minister of Fire
I mistakenly thought the rigid liner would be significantly cheaper but it appears that the HeatFab rigid 304 (which we put in at my BIL's) is now pretty close to the same price as the Homesaver Roundflex 304 that I have here. In that case, I'd go with the flex..you don't have to screw sections together. The cheapest flex I would consider would be a medium-weight liner such as HomeSaver Pro at .006" (not UltraPro.)
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