VC Resolute Damper doesn't close

[ahovel]

Hi,
I have a Vermont Castings Resolute. I think it is an 0041. I have attached a picture of the front. When I put the damper down (the closed position for secondary burn), the damper doesn't close all the way. There is a 3/8 inch gap at the top. I'm wondering if this is the way it is supposed to be. Doesn't seem right to me. Seems like the damper should close all the way to get the best secondary burn results. I have also attached a picture of the gap when the damper is closed. The picture is of the damper from inside the stove.

Thanks,
Aaron

 

[humpin iron]

you have an original resolute, 25 years old +/-. The damper may have an adjustable linkage on the back side, if it does not you are out of luck. The adjustable part was a retro fit, the part is no longer made.

 

[ahovel]

Thanks for the info. I'll take look to see if there is an adjustable linkage. Are there any pictures or diagrams out there that show what this looks like and how to adjust it?

Also, Does this mean that the original design had this gap when the damper was closed?

Thanks,
Aaron

 

[webbie]

I think the change would be a cast triangle which can be moved up or down to loosen or tighten.
No, there should be no space - are you sure you cannot clean some soot from around there and make it close?

You might be able to make a simply fix by looking at the mechanism - some kind of a spacer around the rod - like a small round clamp around it that took up some room which would push the damper further......like even a U-bolt or something like that.

 

[ahovel]

Thanks, I'll take it apart and take a look at what is behind the damper. Hopefully if the adjuster is not there I can rig up something else. I think I'm lucky in that I only have to undo 2 hex bolts to remove one plate. When I put the plate back should I use some sort of caulk on the seems?

Thanks,
Aaron

 

[Jack33]

There are rope gaskets that seal the cover. One in the top of the stove like the top loading door uses and one glued into the lip of the plate. If you have never had it off, I think you will find a ton of build up back there. That very well may be your problem.

 

[ahovel]

I took off the top plate off to see what was back there. I couldn't quite figure out how to get the damper to close all the way. I took a few more pictures from the top looking into the stove through where the plate usually is. One shows the damper in the closed position but not quite closed, one with my hand holding it fully closed, and one of the mechanism that is attached to the damper handle that opens and closes the damper. Any ideas on how I can get the damper to close all the way? Gravity does not seem to be working to hold the damper in the closed position so the arm that is attached to the damper must hold it closed? Any one have this stove? Does your damper close all the way?


Thanks,
Aaron

 

[begreen]

Have you checked to see if there are any screws on the damper rod that allow one to adjust where it stops? This should be a simple mechanism. I would expect that VC designed an adjustment in somewhere, but am not sure if it's at the damper stops or the handle. Finding out where the play is will likely lead to the solution. Look for a set screw on the bypass damper handle or look for a cam assembly on the damper rod. Maybe the bolt that goes through the cams and damper link has come loose?

 

[Jack33]

It looks like something is broke or bent (in the first picture, but not the others) where the rod arm goes through the stove. Here is a picture of mine. Same single door model as yours. As the damper approaches the closed position, it seems to lift up slightly and then drops down to lock in place. Did you check for buildup or old cement stopping this from happening?

 

[ahovel]

Thanks for both for your responses. I'll look more for places that the rod assembly could be adjusted.

One question for Jack33. First of all thanks for the picture. It really helps to know that the damper does really close all the way. When I close the damper it does lift up and then drop down in the locked position. But when it drops down the damper falls back to this slightly open position. Is your damper held in the closed position by the arm bolted to the back of the damper? Or does gravity or something else hold it closed?

I'll see what you mean about the bent or broken in the first picture. I'll take a look more closely when I get home this evening.

Thanks,
Aaron

 

[dbvanw]

Were you able to fix this?

Mine looked exactly like yours and I couldn't find any adjustments either. I am using a pc. of rope gasket held in place with gasket cement to make a tight seal when in horizontal burn. It worked well as there is a recess of sorts for the gasket to sit in.

I wonder if there was a gasket here in the 1st place. This would explain why we have the same exact condition.

 

[hicksonj]

Thought I would chime in on this. I have the same stove. My damper linkage cracked about a week ago. It wouldn't hold the damper closed, even when it wasn't cracked. I had to retrofit a metal catch to my heat shield to hold it into downdraft mode. Once the linkage cracked, I searched for a replacement and found a new version that is adjustable. It is a completely different shape, but it works perfectly and operates the damper as it was intended (without my retrofit).

 

[dbvanw]

My damper won't stay in horizontal mode either. Where did you get the upgraded linkage?

Did you have to pull the stove pipe to install it?

Thanks-

 

[hicksonj]

It is a VC part from Olde Hadley Hearth & Home in South Hadley, MA.

Yes... gotta pull the pipe.

 

[ahovel]

Hi,

I was able to fix this by putting a nail behind the damper rod where it goes into the stove. This pushed the damper rod forward enough so that the the damper closes all the way. Works great although I worry that the nail head is wearing the damper handle rod.

Is there a part number for the new linkage? I would like to take a look at it as better solution to my nail.

Thanks