vermont Casting Resolute handle problem

[sirgeoff]

I have an older Resolute (1980's). The handle which controls the damper was damaged (bent then restraightened from outside the stove) slightly on transporting. The Handle is now clicking and sometimes jamming when flipping between the up or down position. Any suggestion what I can do to fix this problem. I suspect I have to take apart the back.

 

[webbie]

I think this may depend on the exact model. Some units have a small wedge of cast iron which is mounted on the damper flap - and this has a set screw that allows it to be adjusted up or down. By adjusting it, you set the level of tightness that the damper actuator rod presses against it with. I don't think you have to remove the back no matter what. This can be done from either inside the stove by lifting the top, or at worst by removing the flue collar plate.

OOPS, I am thinking of the newer resolutes! The older ones are different. I think you can make it up by slightly bending the rod, but you have to take the flue collar and blank plate off. Also, keep in mind that it is supposed to lock hard into the closed position. Many user only push it so far, and do not lock it all the way. It should lock closed, and then take a decent amount of effort to open.

You may be able to get a service guide to that model from CFM. An owners manual which may have some information is here:
http://www.discountstove.com/partsvcwbfreestanding.htm (see links - you have a Resolute I, II or II. Depends on the doors and a few other factors. If your door opens down it is a I or II, if they open sideways it is a III).

Good luck.

 

[sirgeoff]

I have palyed around with bending slightly and noticed that the handle does provide improved movement, but the play is not consistent with my other Resolute which has served me very well. You're correct in stating the the set screw may not exist for my model. I think the flue collar needs to be removed to really examine the issue. Is this removed by unscrewing several allen head screws? Are there any gaskets that are in the flue collar area?
Thanks for your feedback!!

 

[STOVEGUY11]

Yes it takes a 1/4" gasket.

 

[sirgeoff]

I was in Maine over the weekend and used the Resolute that I bought used. Firstly, I replaced the split door gasket and then lifted the flue handle up and got a fire going. I then moved the handle to the down position, ensured that the smaller thermostat handle was positioned correctly to allow for the small door on back of stove to remain fully open and the fire simply struggled to continue burning. It would not get enough air to flow. I had to then shift the flue handle to the upward position and everything then flamed well. I was able to control the burn with the smaller thermosat handle. This is not how my other Resolute operates and thus no recirculation effect occurs. Perhaps I damaged more than I originally thought when I bent the flue handle. Any thougths?

 

[begreen]

What generation (year) was each Resolute? Was this second (old) stove thoroughly cleaned out before trying to burn in it? Maybe the secondary burn passage is clogged with ash? Also, check that the primary air ports in the back and on the left side are clear. Make sure that the thermostatic air damper is actually working smoothly and that the air flapper is open with the control all the way to the open position (left?).

To be sure it's clean, take the stove outside and blow compressed air through the passages, expect a lot of dust.

 

[sirgeoff]

The stove was tilted on side a few different times during the transport. There was sand on the bottom when purchased. Do you think the the secondary ventilation is packed with ash and sand? What ports do you need to blow out?

 

[sirgeoff]

I cleaned it out last week and tried again. When burning in the down position you need to have it rip roaring first in the upward position for it to sustain burning. It then slowly cools down when in the down position and smogs out. There is clearly a problem with it getting the air in the down position. The clean out helped, but I'm affraid there is something non-combustible blocking the air passage somewhere. I tried snaking things in the inlets and vacuming with small diameter hoses. Does the thermostat control arm regulate the air coming in the back of the stove (via small metal)door only or is there another passage that opens internally directly behind the thermostat? How difficult is it to take this thing apart?

 

[michaelthomas]

I had an 84 resolute and the key to getting the secondary burn going was to get the griddle temp to a consistent 500-600 degrees before closing the secondary damper. If the wood was wet or I didnn't get it up to temp, it would smolder and not burn well. If the wood was dry and the temp was up the stove burned great.

 

[sirgeoff]

I have another resolute which does not have any problem coming up to temp in the down position. I typically throw it in the down position soon after starting. This stove is alays struggling in the down position. I'm wondering if something broke inside and the air passage is blocked with a chunk of metal. I'm thinking that the guy who had it before me ran it too hot and something gave loose. He upgraded to a larger stove because he was interested in getting more btu output. Does anyone have experienc in taking a Resolute single door type ! apart?

 

[Jack33]

I have this same stove so I do have a fair amount of experience with it. My first thoughts are this....if you are able to get a roaring fire in the updraft position, with the doors closed and the thermostat open, you are likely getting sufficient air into the box. I am thinking that your issue is on the exhaust or draft side of the stove. You asked about removing the top cover but didn't state if you actually did. If not, pull the cover and move the handle down (damper up) so you can clean out under and behind the damper. Ash piles up big time back there. I stick a shop vac right in there and use a putty knife to clean stuff stuck to the sides. Put your shop vac to the exhaust ports inside the stove as well. While the cover is off, you can easily check the operation of the damper and lever function and check for damage.

Is this stove in a different location than your first Resolute? If not, possibly a weak draft or wind could also be your problem.

 

[sirgeoff]

One stove is in Maine the other in Massachusetts. The stove at my full time residence works great. I using this stove as a bench mark in performance to the other and there is no comparison. The stove in MAss will sustain a fire and elevate in heat when operating in the down position regardless if the wood is dry or unseasoned. That blows the theory that I have heard from many that it is absolutely crucial that the wood is dry. I have stoked the the stove with dry wood and left the draft open and it ripps up the flue; plenty of draft in Maine; once you go to the down position it smogs and slowly struggles. The maine stove characteristics below:

While operating in the down position the fire smogs
If you adjust thermosatat lever to open door on back to the max setting the fire responds to the addidional air but does not surge at all. This is completely unlike my Mass stove.
I have taken the flue collar of, but not the top of the stove. When you taker off the flue collar you can access all of the damper and part of the control arm. There is nothing there to vacuum out. There is a plate which sits below the damper and appears to have ash behind it, but is inaccessible. I have vacumed out the ports that are accessible , but there are limits to reach in throu out the air passages, no? I'm just about giving up on this VC stove and replacing it with an Upland 207. I'm ambivalent regarding this choice. Any thoughts are appreciated.

 

[humpin iron]

Older Resolute--You need to remove the inside right panel and vac the by-pass chambers, also remove the collar and go down in behind the fire back. To remove the inside panel you will most likely have to drill out the Allen head 1/4 20 bolt. Bolt is near the center of the panel, on the inside of the firebox. Beware the bolt is a grade #8 bolt, hardened. You will most likely need several drill bits. You can then soak the threaded shaft for a few days and try to back it out with vice grips, if you fail then you will have to tap the hole out to replace the threads. Anything you take apart on one of these stoves be sure to put back with anti-seize grease on the threads. Also replace the bolt with a common 1/4 20 hex head, grade #5. Anti-seize you get at a car parts store, the bolt at any hardware store

Your problem explains the answer: when in up draft the stove works-when in by pass it does not. The problem is between the fire box and the exhaust collar. The soot that gets sucked in back there is super fine like baking flour, builds up and clogs the system. During moving you may have dislodged some and make the clog worse. Good luck

 

[sirgeoff]

looking at the schematics it appears my stove is a model III (two door glass). Are you referrinf to removing the piece that has several holes in a line (lower fire back). When I looked in the door (the one supported by the thermostat chain)and down the channel on back of stove I noticed it was fairly clean and also vacummedthis area out. Are you telling me that there is another zone within the lower fire back that is potentially clogged? I see how the right insert is removed, but I'm not sure of the location you are referring to.

 

[humpin iron]

When you look in through the front door, you need to remove the rt inner wall and possibly the back inner wall, also called the lower fireback. DO NOT remove the back inner wall if you can avoid it. I have over 30 years working on that stove (professionally) and it would be hard for me to get it back together. Should be able to suck the passage ways clean with a strong shop vac with a clean filter.

The flapper you looked in on the back of the stove is not related to your problem, thats air inlet

 

[sirgeoff]

After successfully removing the right inner wall will the lower fire back wall simply pop out or is there another bolt for it as well.

 

[sirgeoff]

Well I took the stove apart this weekend. I found that it is best to remove the left panel first (you need to back out screw). Then wiggle the back panel slightly using sure strength and pry bar after backing out the screw on right panel. The right panel has a screw that needs to be backed out then using a pry bar to help remove the panel (be gentile with the pry bar to ensure that you do not damage the stove). It goes back together quite easy. After taking it all apart I was able to remove the damper assembly and straighten out handle arm. The stove was fairly clean and there wasn't any fine dust caked in the passage, but I did find some broken cast chunks here and there. I did notice that several locations had deteriated probably due to excessive high heat burning. This stove needs a rebuild. I think I will retire this resolute and go with an Upland 207 I'm looking at, or I can get parts and rebuild if they are not to expensive. Anyone have a lead on a good parts retailer?