Vermont Castings 2550 questions

[bentley]

Have had this unit installed for 6 years. It never has performed well and will not accept even a half load of split oak without running out of control. So will be looking for an alternative.

But, just installed a new combustor and cleaned stove and stack (@30ft). I removed the cover from the secondary air entry. When the stove is cold, the air flap is in closed position. When at operating temperature, the link moves in a direction to (further) close the flap as I believe it should be doing. So, the flap never moves, remaining in it's closed (held slightly open by a dimple on the valve) position. I assume an adjustment is needed but unable to find info. Anyone??.

 

[begreen]

30ft is a tall chimney. Have you tried a stove pipe damper to reduce draft? What is running out of control? What temperature are you seeing on the stove top?

 

[bentley]

30ft is a tall chimney. Have you tried a stove pipe damper to reduce draft? What is running out of control? What temperature are you seeing on the stove top?

A damper was installed by the installing dealer when I purchased the stove. 650 or 700 stove top temp and have seen 1100 on my stack probe 30" above the stove top. Closing the primary all the way didn't lower the burn rate when this has occurred from a moderate load of wood. It was necessary to burn down the fuel, even with the damper closed. I can't understand how it can even run this way with the stack damped and the air inlet closed so far as EPA standards now allow.

I am advised this isn't a highly rated model but it wasn't "on the radar" when I bought it and if the dealer knew, they weren't saying. Had owned a VC pre EPA and loved it.

 

[begreen]

Which side of the damper is the probe on, the stove side or the chimney side? 1100F on the chimney side is too hot.

 

[Diabel]

The flapper should be open about 1/2 inch when the stove is cold. It should close as the stove heats up.

You should read up on the loading techniques that few seasoned 2550 operators have posted here.

 

[bentley]

The flapper should be open about 1/2 inch when the stove is cold. It should close as the stove heats up.

You should read up on the loading techniques that few seasoned 2550 operators have posted here.

I am "well seasoned". I've owned this mal operating stove since 2006 and others before it.

the secondary flap is at its minimum design closure and resting against the small stop protrusion on the flap when cold. Perhaps I/8th inch opening on the side away from the hinge screw. When the stove warms up, the flap cannot close any further, though the operating rod moves to support that.. So, the secondary is air starved I would suppose.

That said, I cannot put a load of dry or moderately dry wood in this stove without it burning at rated maximum temperatures and have had a flue fire at one time without any ability to adequately restrict airflow. Everything closed!

For grins, I have watched videos of loading and burning these and other cat stoves. I'm old enough that I ran pre EPA stoves before EPA was "hatched" and I'm a retired fire fighter. So, I understand the basics of combustion. What I don't know and haven't found out is how to adjust/fix the available controls so that I can burn more than 2 hours worth of wood (unless the ash drawer is full and restricting air flow). Gaskets are good and stove has done this since new. I'm just at the point of converting it to a boat anchor...

I do appreciate your thoughts on this and any that may be forthcoming.

Thanks

 

[Diabel]

Sounds like the stove has some major leaks. As you must know there are soooo many moving parts on this stove that need gasketing etc.

It would be a good idea to move this thread to the ongoing VC thread where several knowledgeble people are sharing their experiences.

 

[webby3650]

You mention that it's more controllable with the Ashpan full. Is that correct?

 

[bentley]

Sounds like the stove has some major leaks. As you must know there are soooo many moving parts on this stove that need gasketing etc.

It would be a good idea to move this thread to the ongoing VC thread where several knowledgeble people are sharing their experiences.

Thanks. I'll look there. I'll also find some incense or the like to id air leaks. yes, air must be getting into this thing someplace and perhaps other than the intended inlets. It certainly isn't an airtight design.

 

[bentley]

You mention that it's more controllable with the Ashpan full. Is that correct?

Yes, definitely. I haven't located where the primary air is introduced to the firebox and wondered if it was just above the ash pan as that would make sense given the full pan performance. After years of short burn times, and me getting older and more crotchety, I'm at the point of resolving it or buying another stove. Everything I've read indicates this was a poor choice to begin with so will be considering anything else carefully.

 

[Excavator]

You should try reloading fire or starting new fire and turn down air control half way if you have a strong draft. That is what I have to do and I use a cat digital monitor to watch the temps of cat. I have to engage cat at lower temps and then I have much better control. If I dont do this my cat temps will get out of control and takes a while to get back down. I run old Encore 0028 that I rebuilt and re gasketed

 

[webby3650]

These stoves are very problematic. It sounds like your Ashpan door is leaking air. That's why it is more controllable when it's full, it doesn't have anything to do with the primary air path. Your draft is so strong that a minor gasket issue is being magnified. At least that's my theory.

 

[Excavator]

These stoves are very problematic. It sounds like your Ashpan door is leaking air. That's why it is more controllable when it's full, it doesn't have anything to do with the primary air path. Your draft is so strong that a minor gasket issue is being magnified. At least that's my theory.

But with a strong draft as I have I do have to be careful when reloading and primary air wide open. My pipe coming off the T will turn cherry red before the griddle Temps hit 500.
If I engage cat at that point she takes off quickly and hard to get cat digital Temps down below 1600. When I start out with primary air control at 3/4 it is much easier to get griddle Temps up and no cherry red pipe that connects on top of T. The digital cat Temps are controllable at that point. I agree that the VC stoves are temperamental but I had this one since 1988 and rebuilt twice and since doing upper and lower fireback plus gaskets it works good. One last thing, since I installed the 28 foot insulated liner and block off plate 6 years ago is when the strong draft was noticed