water well / foot valve problems

I think there's still a leak, it just takes longer for the pump to turn on because the tank is working properly now.

well, it didn't loose prime the other night when we had it shut off, which I was shocked.
This tank just looks like a pain to be able to remove. All the piping looks rusty. I guess maybe a good torching will help.

You should remove the old tank. If you don't, it will just leak down the road and you will be wishing you had removed it. Post some pics and we can give you an idea of how to proceed.

Did you check the schrader valve for an air leak, that's an easy fix. Beyond that, junk the tank.

yes, no leak there. Here are some pics for what its worth..

I would take it apart at the union and replace the pipe from there to the tank. Put a valve in and a boiler drain just like it is now. I'd do it in plastic and brass.

If you're really worried about losing prime, you can try the following:



Close the valve and drain the tank first. Now cut (hacksaw or sawzall) at the red line. Un-thread the cut off nipple from the valve (blue arrow).

Remove the old tank and install the new one. If you do it this way, assuming the piping going to the tank is 3/4", you'll need two 3/4" brass close nipples, a 3/4" brass union (FIP x FIP), a 3/4" brass tee, a 3/4" boiler drain, a 1" brass nipple, a 1" x 3/4" reduced coupling, and a 3/4" brass nipple. The 1" brass nipple, the reduced couple, and the 3/4" brass nipple, when put together, will have to be of suitable length to stick out from the new tank by a few inches when threaded in. Thread the tee onto that just like it is now. Boiler drain out one side, close nipple, union, close nipple into the valve out the other.