What size Hearthstone for 1100 sf cape

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eastmitten

New Member
Dec 6, 2009
29
New Hampshire
What a great site! I've been reading through the posts over the past few weeks and have tried to do my homework before buying a wood stove. We live in a small, 1100 sf cape in NH with FHA for heat. On the right side is a 12x12 room (on very sturdy posts) - many windows, slider - we call it the sunroom. This is the room we walk into never using the front door. The sunroom opens into the kitchen to the left which then opens into the living room at the front of the house - so it's a pretty open area. Down the hall is the bathroom and two bedrooms at the end of the hall. No need to blast too much heat down there. Two bedrooms upstairs that we normally turn airflow off to unless drying clothes on a rack and want heat up there. Eventually, if we add a full-shed dormer we'd consider cutting in some floor vents so the stove's heat can make its way up there.

We're planning on putting a wood stove in the right corner of the sunroom as it's the corner behind the door when it opens and we've never really used that area. Through lots of thinking and reading we like the concept of a soapstone where the stove never really spikes in heat and remains warm longer. Our main concerns are how will it fit in that area - in a corner with a hearth that needs to accommodate the stove and wanting to make sure we have enough heat for the house but not too much. We do have forced hot air that we have no problem using especially during the time it would take to heat up the soapstone, say coming home after work.

I realize that stoves all list the size house they heat by square footage but it seems that it's not all that simple as that's more the maximum size from what I'm told. At first we were planning on the Homestead but due to the R-value requirements of the hearth with bottom heatshield (2.5) we're concerned that the hearth would have to be very large so for weight concerns on posts and cost of building it, we started looking at the Phoenix and Heritage (1-1.2 R). After talking to the local dealer we are leaning toward the Heritage. BUT, we don't know if this will just be too big for the house - heat-wise and space-wise. Also, we were told that since the Heritage would be in the corner, the installer is required to lock shut the side door so we couldn't even use it.

We think the Tribute would be a much better fit for the sunroom but are concerned that it's too small and won't give the heat to the other rooms - this is what the guy who's going to install it said. Plus, we're concerned with the fact that it only takes a 16" log and has a much less burn/heat times than the Heritage. We'd rather have a larger stove we can have a larger or smaller burn in vs a small stove that that's all you can have.

Also, you were all mentioning the Woodstock but from what I read there's an issue with the space needed behind the stove and in this 12x12 room, I'm afraid it would push the stove too far out into the room.

Your comments are greatly appreciated!
 
eastmitten,
I'm having trouble picturing the floorplan (as others may), so it may be worth taking a picture or creating a diagram for real help.
In either case, my wife and I bought a Homestead two months ago and love it--the soapstone does not blast us out, we get great burn times (8.5 hours last night--26* outside and 71 inside all rooms), and it looks nice. My in-laws have a Heritage and they love it as well. They heat a very drafty cottage, about 1,000 square feet and it works OK--not great in colder temps, but it's very drafty. The top floor we heat is 1,200 and the Homestead does it well (hearth mount, which guided our decision). I would go bigger for longer burn times--you can always build smaller fires.
I've not heard many good things about the tribute: tiny fire box (1.2 vs. 2.3), small log size (16" vs. 21"), and, since it's smaller, not as much soapstone which means less 'heat life' ('up to' 7 hours vs. 12).

The reality is this: the Tribute will have you loading in the middle of the night or having to restart it every morning--they quote 5 hours MAX, which sounds like it would be a PITA. The Phoenix looks ok, but because it's a hybrid you might lose the benefits of the soapstone (of course, you would gain some of the benefits of cast iron!).

Are you working with Nordic Stove? They seemed nice when we were looking; Abundant Life in Chichester was also excellent--it might be worth talking to them both.

Good luck!

S
 
the homestead or phoenix would be better for you than the tribute
 
thinkxingu - thanks for your feedback. I took some pictures:
1) Standing in kitchen looking into sunroom. I've laid some bricks where the stove will go.
2) Standing in sunroom looking back into the kitchen and down the hall
3) Standing in the middle of the sunroom looking back through the kitchen to see the opening into the living room.
 

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As an alternative, maybe take a look at a Pacific Energy Alderlea T5 stove. It is a convection heater that has very close corner clearances and easy hearth requirements. The stove takes a decent sized log and will burn over a wide heat range. The mass of cast iron takes a bit more time to warm up, but is also cools down slower, evening out heat spikes. Many describe this as soft heat.

For soapstone, maybe also consider a Woodstock Fireview?
 
we have the phoenix. its doing us well. i believe we have about 1300 sq. ft of space. the heat given off creates a nice convection current and we have some heat upstairs. we like it and im still not sure it will heat when the temps drop into single digits ?. the house was built in the early 50's so its hard to heat when the winds are cold and steady. i havent had it up to anything past 400 as measured on the top center stone, the oak i put in last night burned from 11 pm and coals were hot at 6 am to re start another load. its was around 32 outside and were new with this stove. im liking the fact that when after 8 hours passes the top stone is at 200 f. and the inside temp was at 64. good luck and i hope this was helpful. pete
 
BeGreen - I read this from HighBeam on the "Woodstock vs Hearthstone" topic:

"We see above that many people love the WS and I would love to own one too, but like any stove the woodstock has some problems. The rear flue allows great cat access but it means that this stove is like a football field away from a combustible wall. In the days of 4-7 inch rear clearances from other stoves, the WS requires about 20” once you consider the 6” to pipe, the 7” pipe, the 3” snout of the tee, and the 4” stove adapter. The only time that this is reasonable is if you are venting into an existing chimney where you have the old fireplace to use up that 20”. These WS stoves are only rated to heat a small home and in a small home you don’t have tons of space to throw away by pulling the stove out into the room.

The heritage can be rear OR top vented, ..."

So I didn't think a Woodstock would work best in this smaller room.
 
BeGreen said:
As an alternative, maybe take a look at a Pacific Energy Alderlea T5 stove. It is a convection heater that has very close corner clearances and easy hearth requirements. The stove takes a decent sized log and will burn over a wide heat range. The mass of cast iron takes a bit more time to warm up, but is also cools down slower, evening out heat spikes. Many describe this as soft heat.

For soapstone, maybe also consider a Woodstock Fireview?

I just checked the Pacific Energy website but didn't see any reference to heat/burn time. Any idea on this?

Thanks!
 
The Woodstock suggestion was mainly because of it's easier hearth insulation requirements. True about needing a bit more space, but it is not huge if double-wall pipe and wall shielding is used. I have no doubt that the stove would easily heat your space. We have happy owners here heating twice as much area in cold climates. For tight spacing, I still recommend looking at the PE Alderlea T5. It has close clearances, looks good and acts much like a soapstone stove, but has a higher range of operating temperatures.
 
BeGreen said:
The Woodstock suggestion was mainly because of it's easier hearth insulation requirements. True about needing a bit more space, but it is not huge if double-wall pipe and wall shielding is used. I have no doubt that the stove would easily heat your space. We have happy owners here heating twice as much area in cold climates. For tight spacing, I still recommend looking at the PE Alderlea T5. It has close clearances, looks good and acts much like a soapstone stove, but has a higher range of operating temperatures.

BeGreen - can you please tell me how the Alderlea T5 (2,000sf) compares to the Alderlea T4 (1,500sf) - considering my 1,100 sf house and located in the sunroom? They look pretty comparable... and they certainly are nice looking.

ps as for my earlier question - I called a dealer and he said about 8 hr burn-time on the T5.
 
Ignore the sq ftg. go by the firebox size. Heating 1100 sq ft in NH is entirely different that heating the same sq ftg in WA state or the Carolinas. Firebox capacity will give you longer times between refilling the stove and the reserve capacity you need for those zero degree nights.

I would get the T5. It's a pussycat to run, and can hold a low fire or burn cleanly with just a few sticks of wood, stove top at 450. But when it gets into the single digits, it can be pushed hotter (stovetop 650-700) and will have the reserves you need.
 
BeGreen said:
Ignore the sq ftg. go by the firebox size. Heating 1100 sq ft in NH is entirely different that heating the same sq ftg in WA state or the Carolinas. Firebox capacity will give you longer times between refilling the stove and the reserve capacity you need for those zero degree nights.

I would get the T5. It's a pussycat to run, and can hold a low fire or burn cleanly with just a few sticks of wood, stove top at 450. But when it gets into the single digits, it can be pushed hotter (stovetop 650-700) and will have the reserves you need.

Do you know what the box size is on the T5? I've searched high and low and can't find that anywhere. All I can find regarding size is that it takes an 18" log - same as T4.
 
The Tribute would definitely be too small it has been recently re-rated by Hearthstone from heating up to 1,300 sq. ft. down to 1,000 sq. ft. If you are heart set on soapstone, I would go with the Homestead. Smaller footprint than the Heritage with comparable performance. Consider the T5 Alderlea as well. You get the heating of the Hearthstone with a smaller footprint, little less expensive and very attractive stove, too.
 
I would seriously consider a Woodstock Keystone or Palladian. With a rear heat shield the rear clearance is 15" and they are both top vented. The Fireview is rear vent only so it would stick out more. I don't think the smaller Woodstocks would have any trouble heating 1100 sq ft. IMHO the Woodstocks are better built and are a little cheaper in price. The PE T-5 is a nice stove but it won't heat like a soapstone stove, they are more or less convection heaters and the soaps are more of a radiant heater. Do yourself a favor and make a trip to the Woodstock factory, you can pick out your stones, colors, and meet the people that will build your stove.
 
16" max wood size on Palladin & Keystone would cancel those out for me. T-5 is probably a fine stove, but it looks like a Oompa Loompa!

S
 
eastmitten said:
BeGreen - I read this from HighBeam on the "Woodstock vs Hearthstone" topic:

"We see above that many people love the WS and I would love to own one too, but like any stove the woodstock has some problems. The rear flue allows great cat access but it means that this stove is like a football field away from a combustible wall. In the days of 4-7 inch rear clearances from other stoves, the WS requires about 20” once you consider the 6” to pipe, the 7” pipe, the 3” snout of the tee, and the 4” stove adapter. The only time that this is reasonable is if you are venting into an existing chimney where you have the old fireplace to use up that 20”. These WS stoves are only rated to heat a small home and in a small home you don’t have tons of space to throw away by pulling the stove out into the room.

The heritage can be rear OR top vented, ..."

So I didn't think a Woodstock would work best in this smaller room.

Yikes, my words came back like a boomerang. I still stand by that quote and will clarify that the 20" is best case scenario using all the latest and greatest wall shielding and double wall pipe. It sticks right into the room which maybe you like?

The heritage can be 7" from the wall and even though the side door must be locked shut in some corner installs, you can still use teh huge front door. I would prefer the heritage over the homestead for a few reasons like way more soapstone, better door latches (from reliability statements here), and much much less likely to crack (like never on this site). The smaller heritages seem to have a history of cracks and smaller than 2 cubic feet and you may as well not bother as it won't burn overnight.

The smaller woodstocks might be a good fit for you since they don't have a front door so have very small front hearth requirements. The thing will hang out into the room much farther than a T5 but you get a cat stove which I think is great.

The T5 would be a great fit too and they look nice. Should be local dealer support for you.
 
Highbeam said:
eastmitten said:
BeGreen - I read this from HighBeam on the "Woodstock vs Hearthstone" topic:

"We see above that many people love the WS and I would love to own one too, but like any stove the woodstock has some problems. The rear flue allows great cat access but it means that this stove is like a football field away from a combustible wall. In the days of 4-7 inch rear clearances from other stoves, the WS requires about 20” once you consider the 6” to pipe, the 7” pipe, the 3” snout of the tee, and the 4” stove adapter. The only time that this is reasonable is if you are venting into an existing chimney where you have the old fireplace to use up that 20”. These WS stoves are only rated to heat a small home and in a small home you don’t have tons of space to throw away by pulling the stove out into the room.

The heritage can be rear OR top vented, ..."

So I didn't think a Woodstock would work best in this smaller room.

Yikes, my words came back like a boomerang. I still stand by that quote and will clarify that the 20" is best case scenario using all the latest and greatest wall shielding and double wall pipe. It sticks right into the room which maybe you like?

The heritage can be 7" from the wall and even though the side door must be locked shut in some corner installs, you can still use teh huge front door. I would prefer the heritage over the homestead for a few reasons like way more soapstone, better door latches (from reliability statements here), and much much less likely to crack (like never on this site). The smaller heritages seem to have a history of cracks and smaller than 2 cubic feet and you may as well not bother as it won't burn overnight.

The smaller woodstocks might be a good fit for you since they don't have a front door so have very small front hearth requirements. The thing will hang out into the room much farther than a T5 but you get a cat stove which I think is great.

The T5 would be a great fit too and they look nice. Should be local dealer support for you.

Highbeam, your boomerang was very helpful! I've been reading up on the Woodstocks today but their website shows they only take a 16" log which I wouldn't think would be ideal as I can't be guaranteed that that's the wood I'll get. I really like the heritage but am just not sure that it won't be too much for my house. I believe the 7" clearance is for straight against the wall - the corner install is 11" according to the brochure I have.
 
Get the Phoenix with an enamel finish. Better sized fire box. Combi Cast Iron and Stone is great, and based on my used one, probably not much difference in terms of 'soft heat'. Great fire view, long burn times, good looking. You can always build a smaller fire in a bigger box, but you can't build a bigger fire in a small box. Phoenix. f'sho.
 
I'm working on laying out how the hearth and clearances will work to see which stove will fit best in this small space. There is a window on both walls that make up the corner where the stove will sit. Each window has about a 1 1/2" window sill. Should be able to see one of the windows in the first picture above. If the clearance is 4" for the Alderlea T5 for a corner install do I need to make it 5 1/2" to accommodate this? details.. details...
 
We have a windowsill in our corner installation too. The distance is from combustibles, regardless of the stove. If the sill projects into the space, then that is the nearest combustible. But in a corner, the walls get farther away from the stove towards the front so the window sill may not be an issue. Make a cardboard template of the stove and put it in the corner for actual measurements. I think you'll be ok.
 
On the 16" log. Well that bothered me too until the many fireview owners on this site pointed out that they use much larger wood. The 16" is recommended but not a max. I cut my wood to 18" for my heritage which is supposed to take 21" logs. You want to leave some room for loading the logs in a manner other than a package of hot dogs.

The phoenix is a sharp looking stove for sure. That cast iron front in a black enamel would be nice. I have the matte black paint and it has noticabley greyed out and faded in three years.

I run the heritage in a 1700 SF house that was bought with low insulation and leaks and I am changing that to make it a much tighter house. At first it was barely enough stove and I had ice on the inside of the single pane windows when it was below 20 out. Now I find the heritage too big unless it is below freezing. I end up letting the fire die during the day and restarting at night when weather is in the 35-45 degree range typical of my climate. Tonight we have high winds and low 20s out but the heritage cruising at 500 is keeping the stove room at 78, so warm that I wandered off to read the hearth posts. So yes, the heritage can be too much stove IF you want to run it 24/7 but if you and your home can be heated by a fire or two per day then an oversized stove just means more kindling.

In a corner install, the fireview can be pushed a little closer to the wall since the rear pipe clearance is met by the corner space. You would be well served to cut a cardboard rectangle the size of these stoves and set it on the floor at the required offsets from the wall to see what you can live with. You would be wise to consider giving up a few inches if you get a better stove. Also consider the flue and how it is ideal to run straight up from the stove through the ceiling and out the roof with no bends.
 
BeGreen said:
We have a windowsill in our corner installation too. The distance is from combustibles, regardless of the stove. If the sill projects into the space, then that is the nearest combustible. But in a corner, the walls get farther away from the stove towards the front so the window sill may not be an issue. Make a cardboard template of the stove and put it in the corner for actual measurements. I think you'll be ok.

Good point BeGreen - I didn't think of it that way. I think the windows are close enough to the stove's back corner to matter but will resize it all later after work and see where the sills fall on the 4" line. Thx.
 
Highbeam said:
... Also consider the flue and how it is ideal to run straight up from the stove through the ceiling and out the roof with no bends.

Since we don't know what's above the older ceiling tiles in the sunroom my installation guy said he'd try to have it run straight up but may need a bend depending on what he finds when he looks up there. I didn't think that was the best thing to do. Is it really frowned upon to do it that way if you don't have a lot of leeway being in a corner? Not sure how it would affect draft and how it difficult it would be to clean.
 
This is another time when I would give up a few inches and put the stove in a place that allows a vertical chimney. Small house, so you'll be running the stove no low settings frequently and you'll need every bit of draft you can get. Sounds like a sunroom install with a flat roof and single story right? You'll need a minimum chimney height of 14+ feet as specified in the stove's manual. If you plan to be near the minimum then having a straight flue is even more important.

Lots of people put little bends, offsets, and joggles in the black pipe between the stove and the ceiling. It is legal and sometimes has to be done.
 
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