What temp is too high after reloading an Oslo?

[Green Energy]

I am finding that I am regularly get to 650 to 670 F on my back corner magnetic thermometer after a reload. I am burning dryer wood this fall than last year, two year old oak and mixing in one year old sugar maple. I am reloading after 4-6 hours with a healthy coal bed so that the entire load becomes engulfed in flames after 10-15 minutes. I close down the primary air and get strong secondaries. The stove creaks a little as the back corner stove-top temp climbs to 650-670 F. Surface temp of the flue and T climb to about 400-450 F. I am fairly sure that the gaskets are not leaking.

These temps seems higher than last year. But my wood wasn't as dry. Just want to make sure I am not pushing the envelope. What is your experience with an Oslo or non-Cat stove?

 

[Mad Tom]

If your wood is dry maybe you can shut it down a little sooner on the reload. This season I have used dry and not so dry wood.

I have had the same thing happen. Reload, let it catch, shut it all the way down. Thought I would have a nice slow hot burn. Instead it looked like a flamethrower on the other side of the glass. Shot up to 650 on the front corner of the Oslo.

I find that unless your wood is all the same you have to watch and adjust each load differently. I don't like 650. 600 ok but I like my stove to run around 550.

 

[begreen]

You are definitely within the safe range for the stove. But for less drama, also, try burning down the coals a bit more before reloading. Pull the hot coals front and center, open up the air control and burn the coals down. When you put a fresh charge of wood on a large, hot coal bed, the wood outgasses much faster causing a bloom of secondary ignition and a hotter stove top.

 

[Mad Tom]

Forgot a few things.To much turkey I guess. The Oslo should be run at 400 to 600 according to Jotul for efficient burning. I wouldn't worry about 650 to much. I think a ways back someone posted that they wouldn't blink when their Oslo hit 700.

I have a Condar thermometer and it is about 20 degrees off on the hot side. Next time you cook something in your stove throw in your thermometer and possibly a meat thermometer and see if they all jibe.

 

[Green Energy]

Mad Tom, Thanks - I have experimented with trying to close down the primary air ASAP. What I have found is that I will lose my secondaries if I close, or partially close, the primaries prematurely even though it looks like the reload has caught on well. I realize that reloading on coals is essentially a "bottom up" fire. But I am thinking the secondaries are not ready to go without some primary air until I get a good burn going ON TOP of the load. So I can turn down the primary to half at around 12-15 minutes, then to a quarter at 15-20, then all the way shortly thereafter - but in short order the stove-top temp is topping 550 - 600 and ending up at ~ 650.

I have fully embraced the top down cold start method because it heats up and establishes the fire on top first which is the most important spot for heating up the burn tubes and getting the secondaries going.

Be Green, Thanks, yeah I think you are spot on, the less coals I have, the closer I get to a cold start, which doesn't result in exceeding 600F.

I think you are right that:

a healthy coal bed with a fresh dry wood load on top > a full involved load with large off gassing > blast furnace secondaries > higher than normal stove top

Also, I haven't been packing the wood tight as some of the maple has irregular sizes, crooked grain, which in turn, allows a lot of air circulation and faster catching fire.

I think I need to add the step of burning down the coals more before reloading or let the cycle go longer.

Thanks!

 

[Nonprophet]

If your wood is dry maybe you can shut it down a little sooner on the reload. This season I have used dry and not so dry wood.

I have had the same thing happen. Reload, let it catch, shut it all the way down. Thought I would have a nice slow hot burn. Instead it looked like a flamethrower on the other side of the glass. Shot up to 650 on the front corner of the Oslo.

I find that unless your wood is all the same you have to watch and adjust each load differently. I don't like 650. 600 ok but I like my stove to run around 550.

I wish I had your problem!! Th hottest I've EVER got my Oslo on the corners was 550-575, and that was roaring with a near full load of KD hardwood scraps from a cabinet maker friend......while I like our Oslo, it has always been "sluggish" for us, and I really wish I knew why......

NP

 

[ansehnlich1]

I routinely run my oslo to 650 degrees. I hit 700 on occasion but not often. I haven't had any problems with the stove as a result. I run it hot once a day cuz that's what I was taught to do years ago. I had no creosote to speak of after shoving nearly 6 cord through it last year.

 

[Shari]

I wish I had your problem!! Th hottest I've EVER got my Oslo on the corners was 550-575, and that was roaring with a near full load of KD hardwood scraps from a cabinet maker friend......while I like our Oslo, it has always been "sluggish" for us, and I really wish I knew why......

NP

Nonprophet -

Start a new thread about your sluggish Oslo with install details, chimney type/height/location etc. There are a lot of very satisfied Oslo users out here to help you.

Shari

 

[Shari]

I am finding that I am regularly get to 650 to 670 F on my back corner magnetic thermometer after a reload. I am burning dryer wood this fall than last year, two year old oak and mixing in one year old sugar maple. I am reloading after 4-6 hours with a healthy coal bed so that the entire load becomes engulfed in flames after 10-15 minutes. I close down the primary air and get strong secondaries. The stove creaks a little as the back corner stove-top temp climbs to 650-670 F. Surface temp of the flue and T climb to about 400-450 F. I am fairly sure that the gaskets are not leaking.

These temps seems higher than last year. But my wood wasn't as dry. Just want to make sure I am not pushing the envelope. What is your experience with an Oslo or non-Cat stove?

I've got my thermometer on the right front top per the users manual and can pop the temp up to the 400-600 degree range (manufacturer specs).

We had another termometer from a different use that is now left front top - comparing the two therms, they do give out different readings but my assumption is that is because how the wood is stacked inside.

I run my stove in accordance to the therm located right front top.

Shari

 

[firefighterjake]

I am finding that I am regularly get to 650 to 670 F on my back corner magnetic thermometer after a reload. I am burning dryer wood this fall than last year, two year old oak and mixing in one year old sugar maple. I am reloading after 4-6 hours with a healthy coal bed so that the entire load becomes engulfed in flames after 10-15 minutes. I close down the primary air and get strong secondaries. The stove creaks a little as the back corner stove-top temp climbs to 650-670 F. Surface temp of the flue and T climb to about 400-450 F. I am fairly sure that the gaskets are not leaking.

These temps seems higher than last year. But my wood wasn't as dry. Just want to make sure I am not pushing the envelope. What is your experience with an Oslo or non-Cat stove?

I've got my thermometer on the right front top per the users manual and can pop the temp up to the 400-600 degree range (manufacturer specs).

We had another termometer from a different use that is now left front top - comparing the two therms, they do give out different readings but my assumption is that is because how the wood is stacked inside.

I run my stove in accordance to the therm located right front top.

Shari

I think you may be right about the temp variances . . . I've noticed there is almost always a temp variance in the various corners. I just picked the corner that was the highest most often and stuck my thermometer there.