When not running the stove its drafty.

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mrjoshuanyc

Member
Apr 29, 2013
38
Yorktown heights
So oil has been a cheaper option so I'm running my stove less. It's so drafty when not in use. Does anyone else experience this and what do you do? I've been thinking of just throwing a blanket over the stove but it won't look pretty that's for sure. Still burning Home Depot pellets from last year.


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Outside air hooked up or just exhaust venting? How easy would it be to cap/uncap venting when you are intending to use the stove? If you do cap the exhaust (and/or OAK), leave a note on the stove to remind yourself to uncap otherwise you will have a real smokey house!
 
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Mine gets quite cold when not running since it has an OAK (especially since it's on the windward side of house, in a porch that seems to act like a hood scoop) and the venting straight up (chimney effect). Outside air is still slowly being drawn in and circulated through the stove and out the vent pipe. I'm sure if I plugged one or both the problem would lessen or completely go away, but I'm not too worried about it yet.
 
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I dont understand the "drafty" part if the stove has an OAK. I can see the stove being a cold metal object, but how does draft occur unless the door is open?
 
Mine gets quite cold when not running since it has an OAK (especially since it's on the windward side of house, in a porch that seems to act like a hood scoop) and the venting straight up (chimney effect). Outside air is still slowly being drawn in and circulated through the stove and out the vent pipe. I'm sure if I plugged one or both the problem would lessen or completely go away, but I'm not too worried about it yet.
Ball valve inline of the OAK takes care of that. I close mine when I clean the stove just to stop the breeze from outside, or when not using the stove I close it.
 
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I know my stove has openings that pull in some room air into the firebox for the ignitor and the airwash. If it was sitting w/o burning in the winter, I would imagine it would be an easier source of make-up air for the dryer, bath fans, kitchen exhaust, etc. than around the windows and doors.

I would wonder what kind of venting system is used on the oil burner as air turn over may be greater causing more infiltration around windows, doors, and pellet stove so drafts would be more noticeable.
 
Something you've added?
I put the ball valve on when I originally put the OAK in.

My valve is always full open when I'm burning, but others used to use it to adjust the incoming air and adjust the flame that way. Since I have my draft fan settings tweaked to the fuel feed I don't have to mess with the valve.

Another thought years ago was to try and use the valve as a sort of ventura and get the air to jet more into the burnpot. From what I remember that idea didn't get to far.
 
Should have mentioned I have an insert, Harmon accenture. Obviously the metal is super cold but when it's windy it's drafty. Can't close the a damper or anything with an insert.


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Have you sealed off by the smoke shelf in the fireplace and packed with Roxul insulation? Not all installers do this but it seems to be a big benefit in keeping the heat in the house where it's supposed to be. Does it have an OAK? No simple capping the exhaust/OAK for you:(
 
OAK = Outside Air Kit ... brings in fresh air for the stove to be used for combustion. With a fireplace install, there would be two liners run if it had one. Some owners have run their OAK through the original fireplace ash clean-out; some have used a core drill to install one through the back of the fireplace if it's on an outside wall.

Roxul is a fireproof insulation...http://www.roxul.com/products/residential/overview Roxul is one brand, I'm sure there are others...

Do you know if there is a block-off plate installed?
 
I'll have to contact the installer and see what they did. All I know is when I pull the stove out I see a port where the stove vents through a plate which goes into an insulated pipe. I don't think they put any other insulation in or around the stove.


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I have a insert no cold draft. No oak or block of plate above fire shelf.

I did my own install and re pointed my chimney at same time.

I used to be a chimney sweep so it was easy for me. I sometimes wonder about people who have a insert and have this promblem. Was the top sealed right. Is the pipe in two flues is there cracks on outside sucking in air. So many things to cause this.

A chimney needs to be maintain. It gets old just like your house and some never think this.
 
Fish on I actually had my chimney basically rebuilt at the top. Looks brand new now. I never really gave the issue any thought because I bought my house and installed the stove within a few months. This year is the first year I'm not burning a lot of pellets. Oil is just a cheaper more consistent option right now. A lot less maintenance too. I do spark up the stove here and there just because I love it!


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I put the ball valve on when I originally put the OAK in.

My valve is always full open when I'm burning, but others used to use it to adjust the incoming air and adjust the flame that way. Since I have my draft fan settings tweaked to the fuel feed I don't have to mess with the valve.

Another thought years ago was to try and use the valve as a sort of ventura and get the air to jet more into the burnpot. From what I remember that idea didn't get to far.

Nice idea having a ball valve. Seems it should also help keep out critters and condensation when shutting down for summer.
 
Ball valve inline of the OAK takes care of that. I close mine when I clean the stove just to stop the breeze from outside, or when not using the stove I close it.

Pete, ball valve on OAK? What a great idea. Can you give me some details, I.e. type of valve, method for connection? I found a 3" bv on Amazon but a little perplexed on how to connect to metal OAK pipe. Did you use Fernco's. Any chance you could post or send a pix? Thank you.
 
Pete, ball valve on OAK? What a great idea. Can you give me some details, I.e. type of valve, method for connection? I found a 3" bv on Amazon but a little perplexed on how to connect to metal OAK pipe. Did you use Fernco's. Any chance you could post or send a pix? Thank you.
On my stove the OAK is 1 1/2". I went to Fleet Farm here, a local farm supply outfit and found a 1 1/2" metal ball valve. I can't see the make on it the way it is mounted and my camera is broke. I did run into one little problem. When it's not real cold some moisture would build up in it and sometimes freeze. I took it apart and applied silicone plumbers grease to it and never had that problem again.

I did have to get a coupling that was compression fitting on one side and threaded on the other to screw the valve on.
 
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On my stove the OAK is 1 1/2". I went to Fleet Farm here, a local farm supply outfit and found a 1 1/2" metal ball valve. I can't see the make on it the way it is mounted and my camera is broke. I did run into one little problem. When it's not real cold some moisture would build up in it and sometimes freeze. I took it apart and applied silicone plumbers grease to it and never had that problem again.

I did have to get a coupling that was compression fitting on one side and threaded on the other to screw the valve on.

Thanks Pete for the quick reply. Surprised to hear that your air inlet is only 1 1/2". Is that standard on most stoves? As mentioned mine is 3" flex pipe.
 
Thanks Pete for the quick reply. Surprised to hear that your air inlet is only 1 1/2". Is that standard on most stoves? As mentioned mine is 3" flex pipe.
Ya, I don't know if there is a standard in the industry, probably just a standard from each manufacturer and depending on the stoves needs for air and the ability of the draft fan to pull air through. You'd have to spec out each stove by the size of the exhaust, cfm of the fan and then decide on the size of the OAK I would think.

Edited to add: And I can't take credit for the ball valve idea. It was something I saw years ago on the old IBC forum. If I knew which member it was that started it I would give them credit, but that was many, many tons of corn ago. :)
 
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Fish on I actually had my chimney basically rebuilt at the top. Looks brand new now. I never really gave the issue any thought because I bought my house and installed the stove within a few months. This year is the first year I'm not burning a lot of pellets. Oil is just a cheaper more consistent option right now. A lot less maintenance too. I do spark up the stove here and there just because I love it!


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Yup oil is cheap and is a lot easier then dealing with the stoves not like its hard.

Nothing wrong with sparking up now and then!
 
Interesting discussion. I always had a draft problem coming from the OAK when the stove was off --- felt like a small window was open. Never being completely convinced that my Big E needed outside air, I decided to test it by blocking the 3.125" OAK vent with a tin can. I wrapped some foil tape around the perimeter of the can to ensure a snug fit, inserted it into the opening and secured with a hose clamp. The "test" was done 4 years ago and the can is still in place ---- the window is closed.
 
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I have a Quad Castile and a SantaFe. Each has an OAK. When off, If you were to close off the OAK you will still have air back-drafting down the Exhaust pipe into the burn chamber and out the stove door where it is open for air to clean the glass when on.
Because I only run my stoves during waking hours, I clean the interior of the burn chamber (burn pot and surrounding area) each morning. I have two 5 gallon shop vacs with drywall bags for this.
I do not put ash into the ash trap or ash pan, so I have sealed the door/draw opening to these areas.

For the SantaFe I have a length of round fiber door gasket material that I have attached to some aluminum duct sealing tape. I have taken small magnets and attached the tape to them. I lay the length of gasket and tape along the bottom of main door, The magnets hold it in place.

For the Castile I seal the ash door. I have taken a piece of oak the length of the bottom of the door, covered it with the aluminum tape and mounted a piece of round fiber door gasket to one side and inserted screws to the other side to adjust the fit between the bottom of the door and the Tab/ledge below the door.

I know it is a little difficult to visualize. I try to get pictures later if anyone is interested.
 
Here are some pictures of the devices, Tape and magnet. The devices are a bit worn but still function.
 

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