which catalytic steel stove ?

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SolarAndWood said:

Thanks, but what is the catch ?? This place has prices that are about $1000 less
(or 2/3) that quoted by the various dealers I've ben chatting with all afternoon.

I guess part of it is shipping cost, since they are near the factory and are quoting
$300-400 to ship it to NC. But that only accounts for half the price difference, and
evading state sales tax offsets half of that ...
 
Check out the BK burn time thread for the pricing explanation. Essentially, you want to buy from someone on the other side of the Mississippi. I had my King shipped from Wisconisin to a truck terminal in Syracuse for $150.
 
Yes, it is a distributor who will not let me in. Some BS about
insurance. But if this "dealer" is there holding my hand, it is
ok. So I'm gonna get this dealer to escort me there, when I
have no intention of buying from him, preferring to deal with
AutoRain ... maybe I'll just give him $50 for the escort service :)
 
SolarAndWood said:
Check out the BK burn time thread for the pricing explanation. Essentially, you want to buy from someone on the other side of the Mississippi. I had my King shipped from Wisconisin to a truck terminal in Syracuse for $150.

Wow, ok, got it. What a stupid sad story. Meanwhile, I really want to see
one of the things in person before I buy in; maybe I should just drive over
to the distributor and bribe him to let me in the door. And maybe do my
order from this AutoRain place ASAP, before the mfg'er breaks their legs ...

Thanks for all this info, guys, you rock !
 
RustyShackleford said:
Yes, it is a distributor who will not let me in. Some BS about
insurance. But if this "dealer" is there holding my hand, it is
ok. So I'm gonna get this dealer to escort me there, when I
have no intention of buying from him, preferring to deal with
AutoRain ... maybe I'll just give him $50 for the escort service :)

Ah yes, my friends at Fireside. Don't buy a BK product on the east coast. See my comments in the other thread. ;)
 
You know - with all the folks on the forums here who are BK fans I'm surprised there isn't someone burning one near you who hasn't popped up offering to show off their stove to you already. Perhaps you could bribe them with a trunk full of splits :)

It won't help you much but anyone who wants to see my stove is welcome to swing by just about anytime (bribe not necessary).
 
Wet1 said:
I initially wanted the Ultra model, but the guys I talked to at BK suggested I go with the traditional stove unless I needed the closer clearances offered in the Ultra model. His logic was that the double walled construction used in the Ultra gives up a significant amount of radiant heating having the sides shielded. He said it's still a very capable heater, and it would have more than met my needs, but he said the traditional design just gives off more radiant heat... meaning I wouldn't have to rely on the blowers as much. I've never seen the Ultra in operation, so I don't know how significantly the built in side shielding impacts the radiant heating in actual use... I'm just going by what the guys at the factory told me.

Ok folks, I'm on the verge of buying a BK Princess, esp after finding I can get
it for 2/3 the price I initially thought, and that the firewood length isn't really
restricted to 16", but more like 20" or more.

I'd thought I wanted the Ultra, due to the more modern look, but then I finally
digest the comment above - about the heat shields in the Ultra blocking a lot
of the radiant heat.

I have to say that I find the Parlor model just butt ugly - a ludicrous combination
of modern looking stove body with those ridiculous-looking legs, which might look
ok on my old Dutchwest, but not with the Princess' body.

So maybe the Classic, but apparently it has no ash drawer. What is it like living
without an ash drawer (I've always had one in my Ducthwest) ? Do I have to
wait for the fire to go out completely and then scoop the ashes out through the
door ? Do ashes spill out the front and I can't get the door closed, unless I
empty the ashes frequently ?
 
Going on season 5 soon. I have never used mine. Its as clean as a nuns ashtray in a new Volvo off the assembly line. EDIT: The king has 9"es and the Princess has 6"es. Thats almost a cord of pine.
 
north of 60 said:
Going on season 5 soon. I have never used mine. Its as clean as a nuns ashtray in a new Volvo off the assembly line.

Good one ! :)

But can you be a little more specific ? What happens to your ashes ?
 
north of 60 said:
The king has 9"es and the Princess has 6"es.

Sorry to be dumb, but what does 9"es mean ??
 
north of 60 said:
RustyShackleford said:
north of 60 said:
The king has 9"es and the Princess has 6"es.

Sorry to be dumb, but what does 9"es mean ??

No Dumb. 9 inches deep is the fire box depth to hold the wood and ash on the King and 6inches on the Princess.
http://www.blazeking.com/Posters/BlazeKingPosters.pdf and try this also http://www.blazeking.com/video1.html
:) N of 60

Damn, that's impressive; so much for worrying about the ash pan.

What about the catalytic element, how tough is it to remove (for
superficial or complete cleaning) ?

Looks like they want double-wall pipe all the way down to the stove
exit, but the Dutchwest is drafting fine with 5ft or so of single-wall
'til it hits the support collar for the double-wall chimney.
 
I dont know, Never done it. It looks pretty easy. Two nuts at the top front hold in a piece of two inch stainless channel that drops down and holds up or secures the catylist. Looks like theres a small gasket around the perimeter to replace at that time too.
Here is a picture of my Cat after lightly brush/vac on year 3.
 

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Quote...Looks like they want double-wall pipe all the way down to the stove
exit, but the Dutchwest is drafting fine with 5ft or so of single-wall
‘til it hits the support collar for the double-wall chimney.

:coolhmm:


Double wall not class A. Class A is from your support collar up.
Flue temps are already low leaving the BK. 250F and lower after the stove settles out on turn down. They just want to maintain some stack temp for condensing possibilities. I will get Ice build up at the top of my stack in winter as it runs that cool. The water vapor will ice up at the cap. This is with wood that has an average of 15% MC.
Hope Ive helped and not confused.
N of 60
 
N60, do you have the classic model up on a pedestal?
 
north of 60 said:
Quote...Looks like they want double-wall pipe all the way down to the stove
exit, but the Dutchwest is drafting fine with 5ft or so of single-wall
‘til it hits the support collar for the double-wall chimney.

:coolhmm:


Double wall not class A. Class A is from your support collar up.
Flue temps are already low leaving the BK. 250F and lower after the stove settles out on turn down. They just want to maintain some stack temp for condensing possibilities. I will get Ice build up at the top of my stack in winter as it runs that cool. The water vapor will ice up at the cap. This is with wood that has an average of 15% MC.
Hope Ive helped and not confused.
N of 60

Thanks, N. We don't lose a lot of sleep over ice here in NC. As far as draft, like I said,
my Dutchwest drafts fine, but I suppose the flue gasses on the BK might be siginificantly
cooler, but it seems unlikely to me.

So there is a kind of "double wall" that's less insulated than the 8" OD stuff that my
chimney is made from, and that's what they want you to use between collar and stove ?

One more question, how clean does the door glass stay ?
 
RustyShackleford said:
north of 60 said:
Quote...Looks like they want double-wall pipe all the way down to the stove
exit, but the Dutchwest is drafting fine with 5ft or so of single-wall
‘til it hits the support collar for the double-wall chimney.

:coolhmm:


Double wall not class A. Class A is from your support collar up.
Flue temps are already low leaving the BK. 250F and lower after the stove settles out on turn down. They just want to maintain some stack temp for condensing possibilities. I will get Ice build up at the top of my stack in winter as it runs that cool. The water vapor will ice up at the cap. This is with wood that has an average of 15% MC.
Hope Ive helped and not confused.
N of 60

Thanks, N. We don't lose a lot of sleep over ice here in NC. As far as draft, like I said,
my Dutchwest drafts fine, but I suppose the flue gasses on the BK might be siginificantly
cooler, but it seems unlikely to me.

So there is a kind of "double wall" that's less insulated than the 8" OD stuff that my
chimney is made from, and that's what they want you to use between collar and stove ?

One more question, how clean does the door glass stay ?

Double wall stove pipe has no insulation. Just an air gap. It is used in place of single wall and run from the stove to your class A chimney. It also increases your clearances. Double wall chimney with packed insulation is called class A.
My glass will get soot-ed up at the bottom L & R corners if the stove has been in turn down mode early in the burn. Other than that, you can leave it on high burn and it will clean itself. A light haze will accumulate into the season. A quick wipe with a HOT wet cloth at the times I do the ash removal will make it clear again.
 
Highbeam said:
N60, do you have the classic model up on a pedestal?

Its the ULTRA. I updated my Signature. You know I have always put my stove up on a pedestal on this forum. %-P
 
north of 60 said:
Its the ULTRA. I updated my Signature. You know I have always put my stove up on a pedestal on this forum. %-P

Ah, so it doesn't have a leg to stand on. :lol:
 
north of 60 said:
RustyShackleford said:
north of 60 said:
Quote...Looks like they want double-wall pipe all the way down to the stove
exit, but the Dutchwest is drafting fine with 5ft or so of single-wall
‘til it hits the support collar for the double-wall chimney.

:coolhmm:


Double wall not class A. Class A is from your support collar up.
Flue temps are already low leaving the BK. 250F and lower after the stove settles out on turn down. They just want to maintain some stack temp for condensing possibilities. I will get Ice build up at the top of my stack in winter as it runs that cool. The water vapor will ice up at the cap. This is with wood that has an average of 15% MC.
Hope Ive helped and not confused.
N of 60

Thanks, N. We don't lose a lot of sleep over ice here in NC. As far as draft, like I said,
my Dutchwest drafts fine, but I suppose the flue gasses on the BK might be siginificantly
cooler, but it seems unlikely to me.

So there is a kind of "double wall" that's less insulated than the 8" OD stuff that my
chimney is made from, and that's what they want you to use between collar and stove ?

One more question, how clean does the door glass stay ?

Double wall stove pipe has no insulation. Just an air gap. It is used in place of single wall and run from the stove to your class A chimney. It also increases your clearances. Double wall chimney with packed insulation is called class A.
My glass will get soot-ed up at the bottom L & R corners if the stove has been in turn down mode early in the burn. Other than that, you can leave it on high burn and it will clean itself. A light haze will accumulate into the season. A quick wipe with a HOT wet cloth at the times I do the ash removal will make it clear again.
Try dipping a damp rag in the ashes and using that to clean the window... it works excellent.
 
BrotherBart said:
north of 60 said:
Its the ULTRA. I updated my Signature. You know I have always put my stove up on a pedestal on this forum. %-P

Ah, so it doesn't have a leg to stand on. :lol:

Someone must have left that dang door open AGAIN! One of these days ALICE! One of these days. Bang Zoom. :coolsmirk: LOL
 
north of 60 said:
One of these days ALICE! One of these days. Bang Zoom. :coolsmirk: LOL

Alice: "I've been thinking of giving you something!... And you may get it real soon!" :coolgrin:
 
I agree the BK Princess is the way to go for your size home. look online, we got ours for $1300 less then they wanted around here that was with shipping.
 
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