Whitfield Profile 20 Won't Start

[mechelement]

I shut down the stove to clean the hopper/grate and clean out all of the ash from the firebox. When I went to restart the stove, it engages the auger/motor, but immediately stops and keeps doing this on/off starting function over and over. I got it to stop by holding down the power button. I tried it again and it moved the auger enough to discharge two pellets, began the on/off repeatedly, so I held down the power button and it immediately went into shutdown mode. When it does the on/off glitch repeatedly, I can hear what sounds like a capacitor or something clicking. Perhaps it's just engaging and disengaging the auger/blower motor and that's the noise it makes.

Is this the high limit snap switch that's gone bad and is causing this issue? Is there a way to override the switch? I'd like to continue to heat my house with the stove, but if this is a major safety issue, I don't think it would be a good idea.

 

[mechelement]

I let it run on the shutdown mode for ~10 minutes and hit the power button and it properly engaged, started a fire and is now burning.

My wife told me it did this once before this year, but forgot to mention it to me.

 

[bbfarm]

Try unplugging to reset next time

 

[mechelement]

Try unplugging to reset next time

I forgot to mention I tried this three times first.

 

[Lake Girl]

The trouble shooting section on 32-33 of the manual... http://www.woodpelletheat.com/ProfileStoveManual.pdf

Check vac switch tubing and barb, high limit discs....

Edit: for troubleshooting, some set up "jumper" wires with the appropriate connectors so they can temporarily by-pass some component. Just remember to unplug stove before working inside and make sure any jumpers used cannot short out...

Keep us posted...

 

[mechelement]

Tubing is red, looks old, but still rubbery, not dry cracked or anything. Barb at switch (what switch is this, appears to be a vacuum switch?) has a clamp over tubing, but no clamp over tubing at motor.

If the high limit disc is the electrical component in the middle of the stove near the auger with a red label on it, it appears to be connected properly. I'm not sure how to check it beyond that.

 

[Lake Girl]

My vac switch hose has clamps at both ends. I usually disconnect at the end nearest vac switch and vacuum out the hose. You can test vacuum switch by disconnecting at end nearest combustion blower and suck on the tube - should hear the vac switch click closed. Also can use a tooth pick to make sure ash has not clogged the barb on the combustion blower end. When was the last time you pulled the combustion blower and cleaned blades (make sure you have gasket)? Last time you cleaned internal smoke pathways and venting?

Reread your original post - looked at manual again ... how old is the auger motor? Page 33 mentions "self-aligning auger motor bearings may be misaligned"

 

[mechelement]

My vac switch hose has clamps at both ends. I usually disconnect at the end nearest vac switch and vacuum out the hose. You can test vacuum switch by disconnecting at end nearest combustion blower and suck on the tube - should hear the vac switch click closed. Also can use a tooth pick to make sure ash has not clogged the barb on the combustion blower end. When was the last time you pulled the combustion blower and cleaned blades (make sure you have gasket)? Last time you cleaned internal smoke pathways and venting?

Reread your original post - looked at manual again ... how old is the auger motor? Page 33 mentions "self-aligning auger motor bearings may be misaligned"

That's under pellets won't feed. Pellets feed. The vacuum switch works, I tried your suggestion. I've had all of the motors and fans out of the unit this fall. I replaced the gaskets upon assembly. I had to replace the igniter as well. All pathways and venting were cleaned. It's probably had 7 bags of pellets run through it since then.

During the on/off cycling glitch the clicking noise is coming from the computer housing area as the lights flash on/off trying to turn on.

 

[mechelement]

I just pulled the back of the PCB housing and confirmed there is indeed a capacitor that's making the clicking noise during the on/off cycling glitch I'm experiencing. Sometimes it won't let the blower motor or auger activate, but sometimes it will during this glitch.

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

Are you running on a t-stat?

ETA: A different manual http://www.ncsg.org/wcmedia/documents/InstallationManuals/Whitfield_Profiles20FS-30FS-30INS.pdf

 

[heat seeker]

Capacitors are usually quite silent. Perhaps it's a relay that's clicking?

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

Capacitors are usually quite silent. Perhaps it's a relay that's clicking?

Yup and that is where I'm heading.

 

[mechelement]

Yes, it's a relay clicking on the PCB. I just blew the fuse in the PCB, so the stove is non-op until I replace the fuse.

Edit: That's the manual I have a hard copy of.

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

Oh well, such is life.

T-stat batteries going south if it takes batteries, a loose connection in the t-stat circuit plus what is below sans the jumper.

If the stove isn't on a t-stat and loose jumper on the stove t-stat connection point or a loose connection between that connection point and the controller.

 

[Bioburner]

How old are the motors? I know some of the newer motors on the newer stoves were not oilable and when things start dragging hard its starts overloading and now you have the grief of blowing fuses.

 

[mechelement]

Oh well, such is life.

T-stat batteries going south if it takes batteries, a loose connection in the t-stat circuit plus what is below sans the jumper.

If the stove isn't on a t-stat and loose jumper on the stove t-stat connection point or a loose connection between that connection point and the controller.

I am on a t-stat, but no batteries in the t-stat. I have the t-stat set to 84*F constant in order to keep the stove running enough to heat the entire house. I just re-installed the t-stat wires on the back of the stove, traced the two purple wires to the 16-pin connector harness (12 pins appear to be used), unplugged the harness and inspected the contacts. Everything looks clean.

 

[mechelement]

How old are the motors? I know some of the newer motors on the newer stoves were not oilable and when things start dragging hard its starts overloading and now you have the grief of blowing fuses.

All motors are original. I looked in the manual and it said not to oil the motors because they're sealed bearing motors.

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

I am on a t-stat, but no batteries in the t-stat. I have the t-stat set at 84*F constant in order to keep the stove running enough to heat the entire house. I just re-installed the t-stat wires on the back of the stove, traced the two purple wires to the 16-pin connector harness (12 pins appear to be used), unplugged the harness and inspected the contacts. Everything looks clean.

What kind of connections back at the T-Stat and how were the connections back at the T-stat?

I've seen contact chatter take place in t-stat circuits that can cause issues, if not debounced.

 

[mechelement]

What kind of connections back at the T-Stat and how were the connections back at the T-stat?

I've seen contact chatter take place in t-stat circuits that can cause issues, if not debounced.

T-stat connections at the t-stat are prongs that press into clamps and they were somewhat dusty, but contact with clamps is positive and evident given the scrapes on the prongs and inside the clamps.

I take back my previous statement. There are two AA batteries inside the t-stat. Both batteries test at 1.37 volts. My brand new batteries test at 1.64 volts.

T-stat wouldn't turn back on after the old batteries were removed and reinstalled. New batteries installed. T-stat works again. Looks like it may have been due to bad t-stat batteries all along.

 

[heat seeker]

1.37 volts - they're done.

 

[mechelement]

New 5A fuse installed to no avail. I checked the t-stat wires again, but everything is installed cleanly with positive contact all around. I jumpered the high limit snap switch that's easily accessible, not the one in the middle of then entire unit, but it rendered the same glitch. Then I found the photo eye wiring and figured I'd give it a shot. I unplugged it at the harness jumpered it on the PCB side (only side possible to work) with thin copper wires and it worked. I shut it down and prodded the female contacts on the PCB side of the harness with the aforementioned wires in an attempt to clean the contacts. Then I plugged the harness back in and it fired right up when I turned it on. I believe I read somewhere that a short in the photo eye won't permit the stove to start, but I could be mistaken and it could've been bad information. You think this was a fluke or the photo eye harness contacts were the issue?

 

[Bioburner]

Early this summer I was told that the eye was problematic so jumped around it and stove worked. Latter got the info on installing a snap switch in the exhaust and there is even a port for one. Far cheaper than replacing the eye. No problems since. Stove is ugly but works great for camping.

 

[mechelement]

Early this summer I was told that the eye was problematic so jumped around it and stove worked. Latter got the info on installing a snap switch in the exhaust and there is even a port for one. Far cheaper than replacing the eye. No problems since. Stove is ugly but works great for camping.

Did you install the snap switch and use the same photo eye harness to the PCB?

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

I believe that Scott Williamson posted a thread on replacing the Photo eye with a close on rise thermo snap disc.

 

[Bioburner]

Yes, but will need a wire extension. 110 or 120 degree close works well.