Window AC efficiency ratings

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saichele

Minister of Fire
Nov 18, 2005
545
What's a good rating for a window AC unit? Just about everything I've found seems to be running about 10, but I've mostly been hitting the big boxes.

Thanks
Steve
 
SEER 10 is your basic rating a good rating would be 12 or better
 
I would be interested in seeing a window unit with a SEER of 12. The highest I have ever heard of was 11 and I have never actually seen one over 10.8.

9.5 or over is considered efficient.
 
BeGreen said:
But the Federal rating is tougher and thus lower numbers. This chart should help Steve.

http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?fuseaction=roomac.display_products_html

BeGreen....think you have it backwards.....the "tougher" the number, the higher the number...the Fed numbers are lower (they're the minimum the manufacturers must meet) and the manufacturers respond with even better (tougher) higher numbers which indicates an even more efficient unit...........
 
I based my oppinion on central air. In the past year they ( energy codes) have increased the effeciency Seer from 10 to 13.5 How ever they extended the time for compliance another 6 months
to allow manufactures to sell off Existing inventory.

Since I don't own any Ac and never had, the window unit knowledge is limited. I suggested a Seer number that would be an upgrade, but did not know it was unattainable in window units.

Thanks for the info BB
 
Thanks all, particularly for the chart BeGreen. Ended up with a midrange 9.8 6500 BTU for $135.

As to Elk, does that mean there will be a bunch of deals on <13.5 SEER central air units? The mid-80's unit I have is about done, but I hate tossing somethign that still more or less works. On the other hand, I hate running it, because I know it's sucking watts like crazy. And the ductwork sucks, all being retrofit for heating, never really any thought to cooling. Hence the window unit for the bedroom. Terribly conflicted...

But I'm thinking I can make it pleasant enough for about $400 and 3 window slots.

Steve
 
I know the little LG we have is a 10.8 EER and the other sears model is 10.5 or 10.6.

You're better off ignoring the EER (to a point) and spending some money on mounting the unit properly and sealing up the area around the AC unit properly. That can make all the difference.
 
If we're talking central air, our heat pump is rated up to 17 SEER, though it's unlikely we'll use the AC very much. For us, the 9.2 HSPF was more important.
 
I am a big fan of the window-shakers.

Zero loss to ductwork.... and for the price of an annual maintenance contract for a 3 Ton central system, you can afford to replace the window unit every year.

The thing for me is humidy reduction. Set the thermostat at 74 and let'er run.
 
Sandor said:
I am a big fan of the window-shakers.

Zero loss to ductwork.... and for the price of an annual maintenance contract for a 3 Ton central system, you can afford to replace the window unit every year.

The thing for me is humidy reduction. Set the thermostat at 74 and let'er run.

Yep'per Sandor. I had to replace the old 1997 one this year. I went ahead and got two so now there are two upstairs and an added one downstairs for the three or four days a year that it will run. Heck the two new ones ran a whopping $109 apiece with remote controls (ain't that a hoot remote on an A/C and digital thermos and timers).

The old one actually still worked but I didn't want to mess with cleaning it out.

Cool calm and collected all summer for a $180 electric bill during the hottest months including the office servers.
 
To coin a phrase--"zone-cooling".Hey, if we're comfortable all winter with our wood stoves providing "zone-heating", then why not just cool the area you spend the most time in?Save a buck: install an efficientwindowwall unit.
 
That's right where I'm at. I don't mind sweating during the day, I hear it's good for me. But I hate sleeping and sweating.

Steve
 
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