wood stove set up

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philupthegastank

New Member
Dec 10, 2014
64
90% of the US is below me.
here is a bad photoshop attempt to show what im thinking of for my house. nothing is obviously to scale, just to get a general idea. based around an englander 30 NC. the stove will be in the middle of the house.

Hearth pad will pad will be 2x4 with one layer of cement board, one layer micore 300 and then another layer of cement board on top top of that, then will tile with these tiles from lowes:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_177745-12445-BW-37002CS_1z0xzpo 1z0ykxk__?productId=3736483&Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&pl=1&currentURL=?Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&page=1&facetInfo=Brickweb

Im going to get the rear and side heat shields to reduce clearances.

ill get double wall stove pipe, have a straight piece go up to a 90 where it is level with the hole into the masonry chimney, have another short piece of pipe that leads to a 90, then another short piece that connects to the thimble. The chimney is behind the drywall so ill have to cut through that and knock some out. Any recommendations on a thimble? The chimney is a little offset to the left of the middle of the stove.

Then the thimble will connect to a tee which will be connected to a 6" insulated flex liner (no liner in the chimney currently), the total chimney height of around 20 feet, with a storm cap at the top.

Question:
an old oil furnace is connected to the masonry chimney in the basement, ill obviously remove that, but should i seal that hole back up with brick and mortar?

please give criticism on things i missed or potential problems or ways to do it better. just a rough draft.

woodstovesetup.jpg
 
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You will want to change the hearth construction. Micore is soft, it will be better with the 2 layers of Durock on top of the micore. That will add stiffness under the stove legs. Put a layer of 3/4" plywood below the micore as a base instead. This will also give the screws holding together this sandwich something to grab onto. Stagger the seams of the cement board layers.
Or, just put down 4 layers of Durock NexGen and skip the micore all together. That will be plenty stiff with the seams staggered.

If you cap the bottom of the tee at the end of the liner in the chimney then there's no need to plug the old basement hole. Going thru the wall has critical clearances. Here is an important article to read on that topic. There are a couple thimble suggestions at the end.
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/articles/passing_a_chimney

Is that large return air grille next to the stove still connected? If so, note that return air needs to be at least 10ft away from the stove.
 
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the large air grille isnt connected to any ductwork, its just a whole in the floor with the grille. Im assuming it let warm air rise when there was a wood stove in the basement back in the day. thanks for the info and tips
 
Sounds good. You might want to block it off. It probably was connected to an old gravity draft coal furnace.
 
ill get double wall stove pipe, have a straight piece go up to a 90 where it is level with the hole into the masonry chimney, have another short piece of pipe that leads to a 90, then another short piece that connects to the thimble. The chimney is behind the drywall so ill have to cut through that and knock some out. Any recommendations on a thimble? The chimney is a little offset to the left of the middle of the stove.

I may be misreading this but it sounds like you will have three 90 degree bends in the stove pipe. One to the left , then one back to the wall and then one up the chimney. 90 degree bends usually affect draft negatively. Some of the more knowledgeable members may have some thought on this. The 30NC shows a requirement of 15 feet of chimney from the floor so with 20 that may be enough.
 
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2-90 deg turns, one at the elbow and one turn at the tee are a pretty common setup. 3 - 90 deg. turns are not and should be avoided if possible.
 
The best way is to minimize 90 deg turns. In some cases this mean moving the stove over. Or coming up off of the stove, then using a pair of 45's with an offset to reach the thimble.
 
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