Woodstock Fireview Video "Updated Video"

[akennyd]

Nice video!! Thanks for taking the time to shoot and post it.

Still working on my installation, looks like it will be next winter before I use mine for sure now. :^(

Kenny (
John 3:16

 

[FLINT]

Yes, nice video.

I've been running my keystone for exactly one week now, and I've been getting 600 stove top temps regularly without trying. Right now I'm burning a mix of maple, oak, and locust (mostly locust) Also, we've gotten a couple 12 hour burns already. oh yeah, and I've only burned a little over a wheel barrel load of wood running it 24/7 this week. Great stoves.

The only thing, is that I've never had the stove pipe temp past 300 - can't seem to make it get up there. I like to get the stove pipe temp up between 250 and 300 before I engage the Cat, but it takes a while to get it there, even if the stove top temp is already at 300.

Also, not to brag, but the combustor is much more visible in the keystone than the fireview apparently.

 

[Todd]

Yes, nice video.

I've been running my keystone for exactly one week now, and I've been getting 600 stove top temps regularly without trying. Right now I'm burning a mix of maple, oak, and locust (mostly locust) Also, we've gotten a couple 12 hour burns already. oh yeah, and I've only burned a little over a wheel barrel load of wood running it 24/7 this week. Great stoves.

The only thing, is that I've never had the stove pipe temp past 300 - can't seem to make it get up there. I like to get the stove pipe temp up between 250 and 300 before I engage the Cat, but it takes a while to get it there, even if the stove top temp is already at 300.

Also, not to brag, but the combustor is much more visible in the keystone than the fireview apparently.

Sounds like your doing great Flint. A 12 hour burn is very impressive for a 1.5 cu ft fire box. Woodstock told me an external pipe temp should be around 300 give or take for an efficient burn. Try switching your Rutland and Woodstock thermometers and see if there is a difference.

 

[FLINT]

Yes, nice video.

I've been running my keystone for exactly one week now, and I've been getting 600 stove top temps regularly without trying. Right now I'm burning a mix of maple, oak, and locust (mostly locust) Also, we've gotten a couple 12 hour burns already. oh yeah, and I've only burned a little over a wheel barrel load of wood running it 24/7 this week. Great stoves.

The only thing, is that I've never had the stove pipe temp past 300 - can't seem to make it get up there. I like to get the stove pipe temp up between 250 and 300 before I engage the Cat, but it takes a while to get it there, even if the stove top temp is already at 300.

Also, not to brag, but the combustor is much more visible in the keystone than the fireview apparently.

Sounds like your doing great Flint. A 12 hour burn is very impressive for a 1.5 cu ft fire box. Woodstock told me an external pipe temp should be around 300 give or take for an efficient burn. Try switching your Rutland and Woodstock thermometers and see if there is a difference.

Yes, we usually get 6-9 hours burn time, depending on how much wood we put in and how long we let it burn down - seems to be a lot of flexibility on how you burn it. Twice now, I've loaded it totally up at 6pm, got it burning, engaged the cat and set it at 1, and then an hour later moved it down to like .75ish for the duration, and as 6am, we still had plenty of coals to restart and the stove top was around 225ish.

If I get the stove pipe up to 300 and engage the cat, the stove pipe temp will then drop back down to 200 - 250 range for the duration. I would switch the thermometers except that the woodstock one is not magnetic. At least it didn't look like there was a magnet, maybe i should check it out.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

I have 2 magnets from Woodstock and they are both magnetic. Our flue generally runs a bit higher but tot over 350. Usually 250-350. I just looked and it is at 340 now.

Woodstock tells me they like to see the flue temperature at 500 before engaging the cat. Most times we do but not always.

 

[Slow1]

I have 2 magnets from Woodstock and they are both magnetic.

Ahh.. but were they both thermometers? Sorry.. couldn't resist that one.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

Wow. It appears I did not proof read that post. lol Can I blame that on age?

 

[FLINT]

I have 2 magnets from Woodstock and they are both magnetic. Our flue generally runs a bit higher but tot over 350. Usually 250-350. I just looked and it is at 340 now.

Woodstock tells me they like to see the flue temperature at 500 before engaging the cat. Most times we do but not always.

let me make sure we are talking about the same thing.

flue temp is not the same as pipe temp though right? They told me the same thing - flue temp at least 500 so that means pipe temp should be 250-300ish. pipe temp of 500 would be really high.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

No. We wait until the thermometer reads 500 most of the time now. It works great.

 

[Slow1]

No. We wait until the thermometer reads 500 most of the time now. It works great.

Same here - surface mounted.

Now - it wasn't this way for me at the beginning of the season. I used to engage sooner "based on wood looking well engaged and well charred" yeah -well. Folks at WS suggest waiting for the pipe (single wall) to reach 500 before engaging and/or the surface reaching 250 above the cat. Since my cat was always above 250 to begin with I sort of figured I could go earlier... anyway, I have cracks in my cat to show for that folly.

At any rate I started following the advice (funny that eh? some folks just have to learn the hard way) and it doesn't seem to hurt the burn times at all. I.e. my worry about wasting wood seems to have been unfounded. In addition, stove seems to run more consistent load to load in terms of how it settles down after engaging etc. So my protocol is now to wait for that magic 500 mark to be hit on the pipe then I engage and lower air down to .5-.75 and let it go from there. I also get less hazing on the glass this way (yeah, I know - someone likely told me so, I just don't want to go look up the messages to find out who).

 

[FLINT]

wow, really? 500 degrees? It would take forever for my stove pipe to get that hot. as it is, sometimes I wait half an hour with a blazing fire and the stove pipe will barely reach 300. I don't know why it takes so long. Hmmm, maybe I should keep trying? but it really does seem like my wood would really be mostly burnt up at that point - as it is, by the time I engage the cat, the bottom pieces of woods are just glowing coals. seems like that whole time waiting to get up to temp is just like burning an old pre-epa stove, except worse because the temps are so low. What is your air set at to get the pipe up that hot?

 

[Slow1]

I generally run it with air at 2, sometimes if it is going up too fast I'll push it down to 1.5 (I like for all the wood to be engaged before it hits 500 and I shut it down).

I think even a little bit of marginal wood makes a big difference though - if I have a couple splits in there that may not be as dry as they should be it seems to make a huge difference in the rate of heating up. Conversely when I have a load of particularly dry wood in there (especially if it is smaller splits) then I see the flue temps shoot up like crazy.

 

[FLINT]

my wood is for sure dry. the maple and locust dried for at least a year and the oak dried for 3 years.

in my last stove, I didn't have a window and i monitored burning completely with the stove pipe thermometer. The pipe temps would shoot up really fast after putting in new wood, and when the pipe temp got up to 400-500, I would turn the air down and then sometimes the pipe damper as well.

With the keystone, the fire will be blazing and the stove pipe temp doesnt move at all, just sits there at 200. I have to turn the air to 3 or 4 to get it moving.

maybe i'll call woodstock

 

[Todd]

Where do you all have your thermometers located on your pipe? Horizontal and vertical can make a diff in temps along with how high up. Mine is 20" up vertical from the stove collar and I have no problem getting up to that 500 mark, usually takes about 5-15 minutes depending on the load and coal bed, then I turn the air down to about 1 and engage the cat. I don't like to get that pipe much over 500 because I think it's pretty close to overfiring if you figure the internal temps have to be close to 1000.

Flint,
Is your pipe single wall or double wall? If single wall the temps should get well above 300, maybe your thermometer is bad or sticking?

 

[fire_man]

Wow. It appears I did not proof read that post. lol Can I blame that on age?

Dennis:
I would blame it on all that vertical-mode splitting you do. Horizontal splitting is better for the brain. :lol:

 

[heatwise]

very nice, i love the stove and also its surroundings, pete

 

[Backwoods Savage]

Wow. It appears I did not proof read that post. lol Can I blame that on age?

Dennis:
I would blame it on all that vertical-mode splitting you do. Horizontal splitting is better for the brain. :lol:

Perhaps I should try it diagonally?! lol

 

[Backwoods Savage]

wow, really? 500 degrees? It would take forever for my stove pipe to get that hot. as it is, sometimes I wait half an hour with a blazing fire and the stove pipe will barely reach 300. I don't know why it takes so long. Hmmm, maybe I should keep trying? but it really does seem like my wood would really be mostly burnt up at that point - as it is, by the time I engage the cat, the bottom pieces of woods are just glowing coals. seems like that whole time waiting to get up to temp is just like burning an old pre-epa stove, except worse because the temps are so low. What is your air set at to get the pipe up that hot?

First, remember that my stove is the Fireview. We always set the draft full open on reloads. Most of the time now we want for the pipe (single wall) to reach 500 before engaging the cat. That usually does not take very long at all and many times it will be a lot less than 10 minutes. Then we usually dial down to 1 for perhaps 10 minutes before dialing down to about .25. It works well for us. Many times also if we have loaded the stove full, rather than a setting of .25 we will simply close the draft full (if there is still flame). I did that last night. I had filled the stove around 8:00 and by 8:30 I had closed the draft full. I staggered out around 4:00 this morning and moved the draft to 1. We added a couple of splits around 9:00 this morning and there was a full bed of coals.

 

[Todd]

wow, really? 500 degrees? It would take forever for my stove pipe to get that hot. as it is, sometimes I wait half an hour with a blazing fire and the stove pipe will barely reach 300. I don't know why it takes so long. Hmmm, maybe I should keep trying? but it really does seem like my wood would really be mostly burnt up at that point - as it is, by the time I engage the cat, the bottom pieces of woods are just glowing coals. seems like that whole time waiting to get up to temp is just like burning an old pre-epa stove, except worse because the temps are so low. What is your air set at to get the pipe up that hot?

First, remember that my stove is the Fireview. We always set the draft full open on reloads. Most of the time now we want for the pipe (single wall) to reach 500 before engaging the cat. That usually does not take very long at all and many times it will be a lot less than 10 minutes. Then we usually dial down to 1 for perhaps 10 minutes before dialing down to about .25. It works well for us. Many times also if we have loaded the stove full, rather than a setting of .25 we will simply close the draft full (if there is still flame). I did that last night. I had filled the stove around 8:00 and by 8:30 I had closed the draft full. I staggered out around 4:00 this morning and moved the draft to 1. We added a couple of splits around 9:00 this morning and there was a full bed of coals.

Geez Dennis, you got to have a leak there somewhere if you can still get that stove to burn with the air shut off? I know we talked about this before and I think you mentioned that you talked to WS about this and you were going to take your air mechinism apart and check things out? When I shut the air all the way off the whole box goes black and I get backpuffing.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

Todd, don't forget that you can not shut the draft off full on these stoves. But why would you get back puffing? We've ran our stove many, many times with no flame and many times with even no hint of a red coal. Yet the stove burns just fine this way. The stovetop has been over 600 degrees in this condition.

Question: If there is a leak in the stove so it is getting too much air, how are we able to get this above condition?

Even when you go to zero, the stove still has some draft. I recall when the stove was new and I got a bit concerned when the fire seemingly went out of control and I could not get it to shut down. It was the same way. I simply ran the stove with the draft closed (on the control). We don't seem to be having a problem as we are able to control it, else I'd certainly be concerned. However, when we do the summer cleaning this year I will be going through the whole thing with a fine toothed comb for sure. As of right now though it appears there are no leaks that we've been able to find.

I have spoken with Woodstock on this and they are in agreement with me that it is not a big concern. Heck, it is getting to be quite normal; if I fill the stove at night, before going to sleep it will almost always be set at zero any more. If not a full load then at .25. It just seems to be working out okay. Only a few times have we been above 700 but still able to control it and get it below 700 really fast. Once the stove temperature starts down it then does not go above 700 but stays in the 600-650 range.

 

[Todd]

Todd, don't forget that you can not shut the draft off full on these stoves. But why would you get back puffing? We've ran our stove many, many times with no flame and many times with even no hint of a red coal. Yet the stove burns just fine this way. The stovetop has been over 600 degrees in this condition.

Question: If there is a leak in the stove so it is getting too much air, how are we able to get this above condition?

Even when you go to zero, the stove still has some draft. I recall when the stove was new and I got a bit concerned when the fire seemingly went out of control and I could not get it to shut down. It was the same way. I simply ran the stove with the draft closed (on the control). We don't seem to be having a problem as we are able to control it, else I'd certainly be concerned. However, when we do the summer cleaning this year I will be going through the whole thing with a fine toothed comb for sure. As of right now though it appears there are no leaks that we've been able to find.

I have spoken with Woodstock on this and they are in agreement with me that it is not a big concern. Heck, it is getting to be quite normal; if I fill the stove at night, before going to sleep it will almost always be set at zero any more. If not a full load then at .25. It just seems to be working out okay. Only a few times have we been above 700 but still able to control it and get it below 700 really fast. Once the stove temperature starts down it then does not go above 700 but stays in the 600-650 range.

Looked at my air slide again and it looks to me that it is completely shut at 0. Even my manual says not to burn at 0 because it will smoulder and blacken the glass and it will for me. Maybe your linkage is different than mine? It just seems kinda weird to me that you seem to be the only one that can burn so low, most can't get much below .5, but it seems to work just fine for you.

 

[yamgrizz700]

i wish i had that problem, i can rarely get my air down to 1 usually stays around 1.25.. but that's what you get with not so dry wood..

 

[Todd]

I'm bored so I made you guys another video, enjoy.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=04qNwQQPkrs

 

[yamgrizz700]

yet another sweet video todd, how long in to the burn is that? and what did you start the air at? and where is the air set to now?..

 

[Todd]

It was about an hour into the burn, I engaged at 1 and turned it down to .75 after about 20 minutes, stove top at 600. Now the flames are about gone except an occasional burst of blue.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zxKU08BQnqA