Woodstock Fireview Video "Updated Video"

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still iam unsure how these stoves work.. after the last conversation we had i can get the wood stove up to 650 but i keep the air at 1.25 after about a hour i turn it to 1.it is nice to finally get some heat out of this thing.. i really cant wait for next year with dry wood.
 
these are the kind of videos ws should be giving with the purchase of there stoves.. to see how the burn helps alot... Hey todd can you smell royalties.. i love the smell of money ;-)
 
wood1 said:
these are the kind of videos ws should be giving with the purchase of there stoves.. to see how the burn helps alot... Hey todd can you smell royalties.. i love the smell of money ;-)

I agree, Woodstock should give a "How To" video to every customer, it would probably save them a lot of phone calls.
 
Thanks Todd,

Great looking flames. Now I can have something to shoot for. I have been able to get some ghost flames in mine, but I can't sustain them for long. I can't seem to get the cat past the 850 mark since the first burn. But I think I know what the difference is I used the last bucket of really dry wood that night. The upstairs is 74 right now and no matter how much I try, I cannot get it to go past that. I even bought the blower today and it didn't do the trick. I guess there's only one explenation, the wood. I got some wood from my father in law today and it's also not dry enough. Next year will be different when it dries up well. I can get by with it for the nexr couple of months.
 
I agree, Woodstock should give a “How To” video to every customer, it would probably save them a lot of phone calls. ..
i believe they are trying to do it.. last time i was up there i mentioned it and they thought it was a good idea and they have mentioned it.. but i guess it hasn't gotten anywhere.. i guess i will have to go again and see whats up.. can i split the royalties with you :cheese:
 
wood1 said:
I agree, Woodstock should give a “How To” video to every customer, it would probably save them a lot of phone calls. ..
i believe they are trying to do it.. last time i was up there i mentioned it and they thought it was a good idea and they have mentioned it.. but i guess it hasn't gotten anywhere.. i guess i will have to go again and see whats up.. can i split the royalties with you :cheese:

I'd be happy with a deal on their new stove. :lol:
 
ok, so this weekend, I tried to get the stove pipe temp up above 300 and actually had no trouble doing it. I spoke with a woman at Woodstock that owns and uses a Keystone at home and she said she engages the Cat at 300 stove pipe temp. So, we've been engaging the cat now between 300 - 400 most of the time, and got it up to 450 one time just for fun.

I have to have the air control over 2 however to get the pipe temp to rise. Also, yes, its single wall stove pipe and the thermometer is about a foot above the flue collar.

also, in response to a discussion between a couple of you guys on the last page of this thread - I am sure that if I put my draft control down to zero I would get backpuffing. I usually run mine around 1 with the cat engaged. I might try to lower that a little, but sometimes when I do, I get these occasional secondary burn "explosions" that sends puffs of smoke into the house.
 
Sounds good Flint. Everyones setup is different, so there will be differences in air settings. I think the drier your wood and taller or straighter your chimney, the lower your air settings will be. I noticed a little difference for mine this year, after installing a tee on my liner I can't turn it down as far as last year when I just had the liner run right through the crock to the stove pipe. Now I have a more pronounced 90 degree with the tee but can also utilize my clean out.
 
I agree with that Todd and most folks do not know how dry my wood is. For those that read this, we are at present burning wood that has been cut, split and stacked a minimum of 5 years. That wood is white ash for night fires along with the occasional cherry or elm and a lot of soft maple which dries extremely fast. Our wood is stacked outdoors with the top of the piles covered.
 
Thanks for posting that Todd. Too bad they couldn't have cut out the background noise but it shows the flame really good.
 
Woodstock says stay tuned, more to come.
 
FLINT said:
I am sure that if I put my draft control down to zero I would get backpuffing. I usually run mine around 1 with the cat engaged. I might try to lower that a little, but sometimes when I do, I get these occasional secondary burn "explosions" that sends puffs of smoke into the house.

Geez Flint, sounds an awful lot like the complaints some Dutchwest owners have. However, the Dutchwests can not be dampered down in stages and the air controls don't have numbers that make it easier to operate. But it sounds like we are on the same boat, as first time cat stove owners. The difference is yours comes from a company which produces stoves of unmatched quality and backs them up with stellar customer service. Maybe someday...
 
Todd said:
Looks like Woodstock is getting in on the fun.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iDX8YPClCGg

ok, yeah, see - the pipe temp on that fireview was only 225 - thats more similar to how my keystone runs once the cat is engaged.

I usually don't have that many flames going on though during the cat burn, more like flickering and floating flames - sometimes like in the video though.
 
Could anyone see where the air was set? On my monitor it was too dark - looks to be somewhere less than 1?
 
Looked like about .8 to me.
 
FLINT said:
Todd said:
Looks like Woodstock is getting in on the fun.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iDX8YPClCGg

ok, yeah, see - the pipe temp on that fireview was only 225 - thats more similar to how my keystone runs once the cat is engaged.

I usually don't have that many flames going on though during the cat burn, more like flickering and floating flames - sometimes like in the video though.
s


Same here, I engage around 1 or a tad less then get flames like in the video for 10minutes, then no flame and just a red glow with a black box for 45mins, then it'll do the blue flame after the stovetop hits525 or higher. I have no idea what my flue reads as I only have 1 therm and the rutland I bought continued to read 100 deg f even when I could not touch the pipe!!! Yeah, I got my 5 bucks back.
 
It's good to see Woodstock coming out with some video with different temps so we can all compare. I know my flue temps are a bit higher about 250-300, than what Woodstock shows in that video with that kind of fire and stove top temp, but there are many different variables that could be effecting that.
 
Chadwylde said:
FLINT said:
Todd said:
Looks like Woodstock is getting in on the fun.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iDX8YPClCGg

ok, yeah, see - the pipe temp on that fireview was only 225 - thats more similar to how my keystone runs once the cat is engaged.

I usually don't have that many flames going on though during the cat burn, more like flickering and floating flames - sometimes like in the video though.
s


Same here, I engage around 1 or a tad less then get flames like in the video for 10minutes, then no flame and just a red glow with a black box for 45mins, then it'll do the blue flame after the stovetop hits525 or higher. I have no idea what my flue reads as I only have 1 therm and the rutland I bought continued to read 100 deg f even when I could not touch the pipe!!! Yeah, I got my 5 bucks back.

Chadwylde,

Yes, that is our experience exactly - except that our rutland thermometer on the pipe works fine.
 
Todd said:
It's good to see Woodstock coming out with some video with different temps so we can all compare. I know my flue temps are a bit higher about 250-300, than what Woodstock shows in that video with that kind of fire and stove top temp, but there are many different variables that could be effecting that.

I've noticed different flue temps too and have been trying to identify patterns. So far beyond the obvious factors (more draft and/or air = higher temps) one thing I think I'm noticing is that wood that is dryer seems to give lower flue temps. My working theory is that perhaps the extra steam maintains the temps through the flue better (i.e. doesn't give up the heat to the stove as well). Can't prove/disprove this theory so it will remain in theory state. However, I'm going to try and keep watch as I get better wood to see if the flue temps keep going down with otherwise similar situations (outside temps, amount of wood in stove, air setting, stove top temp, whatnot).
 
Slow1 said:
Todd said:
It's good to see Woodstock coming out with some video with different temps so we can all compare. I know my flue temps are a bit higher about 250-300, than what Woodstock shows in that video with that kind of fire and stove top temp, but there are many different variables that could be effecting that.

I've noticed different flue temps too and have been trying to identify patterns. So far beyond the obvious factors (more draft and/or air = higher temps) one thing I think I'm noticing is that wood that is dryer seems to give lower flue temps. My working theory is that perhaps the extra steam maintains the temps through the flue better (i.e. doesn't give up the heat to the stove as well). Can't prove/disprove this theory so it will remain in theory state. However, I'm going to try and keep watch as I get better wood to see if the flue temps keep going down with otherwise similar situations (outside temps, amount of wood in stove, air setting, stove top temp, whatnot).

Yeah, I think your right. Not only drier wood but I believe different species make a difference. I've been burning mostly Black Locust this year and this stuff needs more air to get going than any other wood I've burned and once it's going it burns hot. Like my first video which is what I consider a high burn the flue temps were steady at 350 at a #1 setting and 650 stove top, if I did the same load and burn with say Boxelder or Elm, I can still get that high stove top but flue will be lower.
 
Todd said:
Slow1 said:
Todd said:
It's good to see Woodstock coming out with some video with different temps so we can all compare. I know my flue temps are a bit higher about 250-300, than what Woodstock shows in that video with that kind of fire and stove top temp, but there are many different variables that could be effecting that.

I've noticed different flue temps too and have been trying to identify patterns. So far beyond the obvious factors (more draft and/or air = higher temps) one thing I think I'm noticing is that wood that is dryer seems to give lower flue temps. My working theory is that perhaps the extra steam maintains the temps through the flue better (i.e. doesn't give up the heat to the stove as well). Can't prove/disprove this theory so it will remain in theory state. However, I'm going to try and keep watch as I get better wood to see if the flue temps keep going down with otherwise similar situations (outside temps, amount of wood in stove, air setting, stove top temp, whatnot).

Yeah, I think your right. Not only drier wood but I believe different species make a difference. I've been burning mostly Black Locust this year and this stuff needs more air to get going than any other wood I've burned and once it's going it burns hot. Like my first video which is what I consider a high burn the flue temps were steady at 350 at a #1 setting and 650 stove top, if I did the same load and burn with say Boxelder or Elm, I can still get that high stove top but flue will be lower.

If you have an IR thermometer, have you checked the side temps of the stove during those burns? I've taken to looking at the temperature near the center of the side (opposite the loading door), the loading door (always higher temp during burn naturally), and then on the stone angles in front corners. It is interesting to me to see how these temps change during the burn. I keep meaning to actually document them at regular intervals during a few burns to see what the pattern is. Generally speaking though they seem to be lower than the surface during peak burn and higher during coaling stage (as you would expect given cat activity) but beyond this given they way I have been burning when it is cold- low air, high cat activity during primary burn, then higher air lots of red coals during second half of burn, the sides get much hotter during the second half - in the 500+ range. That really gets a lot of heat into the room from those coals despite not having much flame (just the pretty blue ghosts).
 
Slow1 said:
Todd said:
Slow1 said:
Todd said:
It's good to see Woodstock coming out with some video with different temps so we can all compare. I know my flue temps are a bit higher about 250-300, than what Woodstock shows in that video with that kind of fire and stove top temp, but there are many different variables that could be effecting that.

I've noticed different flue temps too and have been trying to identify patterns. So far beyond the obvious factors (more draft and/or air = higher temps) one thing I think I'm noticing is that wood that is dryer seems to give lower flue temps. My working theory is that perhaps the extra steam maintains the temps through the flue better (i.e. doesn't give up the heat to the stove as well). Can't prove/disprove this theory so it will remain in theory state. However, I'm going to try and keep watch as I get better wood to see if the flue temps keep going down with otherwise similar situations (outside temps, amount of wood in stove, air setting, stove top temp, whatnot).

Yeah, I think your right. Not only drier wood but I believe different species make a difference. I've been burning mostly Black Locust this year and this stuff needs more air to get going than any other wood I've burned and once it's going it burns hot. Like my first video which is what I consider a high burn the flue temps were steady at 350 at a #1 setting and 650 stove top, if I did the same load and burn with say Boxelder or Elm, I can still get that high stove top but flue will be lower.

If you have an IR thermometer, have you checked the side temps of the stove during those burns? I've taken to looking at the temperature near the center of the side (opposite the loading door), the loading door (always higher temp during burn naturally), and then on the stone angles in front corners. It is interesting to me to see how these temps change during the burn. I keep meaning to actually document them at regular intervals during a few burns to see what the pattern is. Generally speaking though they seem to be lower than the surface during peak burn and higher during coaling stage (as you would expect given cat activity) but beyond this given they way I have been burning when it is cold- low air, high cat activity during primary burn, then higher air lots of red coals during second half of burn, the sides get much hotter during the second half - in the 500+ range. That really gets a lot of heat into the room from those coals despite not having much flame (just the pretty blue ghosts).

No IR thermometer but I have done tests with a thermometer on the door and noticed the difference your talking about. This is why I always tout about stove top temps not telling the whole story on heat output. If you want max BTU's you have to get the whole stove hot and that takes a combination of 3 things, red cat, red coals, and flames. It's great to turn her down and get those long burns but when you need the heat you have to give it more air and sacrifice the burn times.
 
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