harman accentra insert w/faulty igniter

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ashes

Member
Hearth Supporter
Nov 14, 2008
57
central nh
history- changed probe sensor 2 yrs ago, everything worked fine.

last year igniter frayed at base, blew fuse. replaced ignitor and problem started.

can start stove via manual or via igniter mode. stove runs fine - no problem until attempting to shut off.

when in shutdown mode auger stops feeding as it should, but exhaust fans runs for hours. stove cools enough to touch glass etc., but if i open the door and touch burnpot it is very hot over the igniter. it appears igniter is staying "on" causing enough heat which makes the probe activate exhaust blower. does not matter if auto or manual start switch was used or what the switch settings are. only way to stop the stove is to pull the plug. upon replugging the stove it resets itself and every thing is fine until next time.

update, no pellets in stove. control panel toggle switch has 2 igniter settings. 1)auto 2)manual start. turned stove on while switch was in manual setting and igniter came on. circuit appears to be stuck in the auto position. when starting in auto mode igniter comes on as it is suppose to do. this means igniter has been staying on for several days at a time in season. have replaced electronic board and it made no difference . have 2 boards, newest one has no dip switches, both acting the same. no blinking lights on panel.

other than splicing a on/off switch into the igniter wire what do you suggest?
 
Based on your report I'm thinking control board issues. Any chance you have a dealer near you that would let you test your board in their stove?
 
history- changed probe sensor 2 yrs ago, everything worked fine.

last year igniter frayed at base, blew fuse. replaced ignitor and problem started.

can start stove via manual or via igniter mode. stove runs fine - no problem until attempting to shut off.

when in shutdown mode auger stops feeding as it should, but exhaust fans runs for hours. stove cools enough to touch glass etc., but if i open the door and touch burnpot it is very hot over the igniter. it appears igniter is staying "on" causing enough heat which makes the probe activate exhaust blower. does not matter if auto or manual start switch was used or what the switch settings are. only way to stop the stove is to pull the plug. upon replugging the stove it resets itself and every thing is fine until next time.

update, no pellets in stove. control panel toggle switch has 2 igniter settings. 1)auto 2)manual start. turned stove on while switch was in manual setting and igniter came on. circuit appears to be stuck in the auto position. when starting in auto mode igniter comes on as it is suppose to do. this means igniter has been staying on for several days at a time in season. have replaced electronic board and it made no difference . have 2 boards, newest one has no dip switches, both acting the same. no blinking lights on panel.

other than splicing a on/off switch into the igniter wire what do you suggest?


update- blown fuse from igniter frey caused transistor in control board to burn out (in open position). estimated 3-400 board replacement/ repair. fixed myself for 5.00. parts needed - wire, connectors, on/off switch an housing, inline fuse holder and 5 amp fuse.
my harman has white and yellow igniter wires in the back. i snipped the white wire, connected a wire loop to igniter ends. snaked the loop to the outside the stove and spliced in the on/off switch and inline fuse. tested via igniter start, flipped switch to "off"after combustion . later stove was shut down and fan went off after about 90 minutes. igniter performance back to normal. tips- leave enough slack for wires to move when servicing. on/off switch has 2 hookup screws , dosnt matter what wire goes where. both screws in switch will show current if tested, this is normal as switch is receiving current from both sides/ends. ps. several emails to harman went unanswered!
 
update- blown fuse from igniter frey caused transistor in control board to burn out (in open position). estimated 3-400 board replacement/ repair. fixed myself for 5.00. parts needed - wire, connectors, on/off switch an housing, inline fuse holder and 5 amp fuse.
my harman has white and yellow igniter wires in the back. i snipped the white wire, connected a wire loop to igniter ends. snaked the loop to the outside the stove and spliced in the on/off switch and inline fuse. tested via igniter start, flipped switch to "off"after combustion . later stove was shut down and fan went off after about 90 minutes. igniter performance back to normal. tips- leave enough slack for wires to move when servicing. on/off switch has 2 hookup screws , dosnt matter what wire goes where. both screws in switch will show current if tested, this is normal as switch is receiving current from both sides/ends. ps. several emails to harman went unanswered!


$300 to $400 for a board? WOW. So based on your post it is working again?