0 clearance Avalon insert to a FS Alderlea 6 where to start???

[NealR5]

Hi
I'm new to the forum and I searched for a common question thread which I could not find. So please direct me if this belongs somewhere else.
We moved into my home in the moutains in June. Our home has two wood stoves, both are older stoves. In one area we have a Jotul 8 and the heat pours out of that stove like crazy. Our second stove is a Avalon insert into a modified zero clearance fire place This stove heats the majority of our home . I believe we loose a lot of heat up our chimney and a installer said it was "unsafe". So I plan on purchasing an Alderlea T6, building a harth and cool wall. I want to do as much of the install as I can on my own. I have been all over the internet and youtube learning/reading and I'm almost ready to begin this project. Can any of you provide words of wisdom, suggestion or any advice that might lead me in the right direction and keep me from burning my house down.

I burn hard almond wood, Cathedral ceiling (approx 15 high), heating 1500 sq ft

Thanks in advance,
Neal

 

[begreen]

Welcome. The main things you will need to watch for when designing for the stove will be clearances and chimney location. Are you thinking of an alcove installation? The T6 probably won't need any wall shielding (cool wall?). It has pretty close clearances. Here are the minimum alcove clearances. No harm in exceeding them.

Another thing to remember is that most likely the chimney pipe will need to be replace with Class A high temp pipe. You'll need to have access inside the chase for supporting the pipe, and for a firestop if 2 story. If trying to use and existing chase it may take an offset in the stove pipe to connect the stove.

 

[NealR5]

Thanks for the fast reply. I guess I should have been more clear on my installation location. I want to install it in different area/corner of a room and remove the zero clearance. The area where I plan on putting the stove one wall is an interior and the other is an outside (both sheet rocked) and the floor is hardwood. My wife would prefer to keep the stove far enough away from the wall to install beadboard over the dry wall but she's not opposed to a cool wall if it's needed and safer. I'm confident we will be able to exceed the recommended clearances to combustibles. In fact if we don't do a cool wall I would like to double the recommended clearance. I'm a firefighter and if I burn my house down I will never be able to walk into a firehouse with out being laughed at. How about building a floor hearth....any ideas or plans? Thanks again, Neal

 

[madison]

Corner installed T6 pictures in signature link.

A couple ideas: Raise the hearth up off the floor. Makes loading and viewing easier. Don't skimp on the hearth dimensions if you have hardwood floors.

Post some pictures of the house, and room for the potential hearth site, you will get a lot more responses with pictures added the thread.

Welcome to the forums

 

[begreen]

Thanks for the fast reply. I guess I should have been more clear on my installation location. I want to install it in different area/corner of a room and remove the zero clearance. The area where I plan on putting the stove one wall is an interior and the other is an outside (both sheet rocked) and the floor is hardwood. My wife would prefer to keep the stove far enough away from the wall to install beadboard over the dry wall but she's not opposed to a cool wall if it's needed and safer. I'm confident we will be able to exceed the recommended clearances to combustibles. In fact if we don't do a cool wall I would like to double the recommended clearance. I'm a firefighter and if I burn my house down I will never be able to walk into a firehouse with out being laughed at. How about building a floor hearth....any ideas or plans? Thanks again, Neal

We have the T6 in a corner install. No need to double clearances. The stove does not radiate a lot of rear heat. We had the Castine there prior to the T6 and it got the walls much hotter. I have not read over 130F wall temp with the hottest fire. That is well below the 90º over ambient recommendation. But no problem if you want to put up an NFPA wall shielded wall and tile it. At that point you can go right with the minimum corner clearance with total peace of mind. Remember that the clearance is to the nearest combustible which will be the drywall behind the wall shield.

 

[NealR5]

Thanks everyone!!
I get off duty tomorrow morning as soon as I get in I'll shoot you some pictures.
Neal

 

[NealR5]

Here are the photos. The far corner is where we want to install the stove. In the second photo the 0 clearance can be seen in the bottom corner.

Thanks!

 

[begreen]

Got it. I had assumed that the stove would replace the ZC fireplace. Will the ZC be removed? It's going to seem odd with a stove and fireplace in the same room.

How does well does the heat get out of this room and into the rest of the house?

 

[NealR5]

Great questions.... our plan is to remove the 0 clearance and rearrange the room to face the new T6 and place a TV on the wall along side the new stove. Our sectional will be against the wall where the 0 clearence used to be. As far as heating..... our kids are grown and gone so we compartmentalized the house. The Jotul 8 heats the back of the house when guests are here and the 0 clearance heats the rest. 70 ish but uses a lot of wood. We also have forced air but both my wife and I love smelling wood, moving wood and watching it burn.
Neal

PS we live in the Sierra's at approx. 4700 feet elevation. We get snow but our temps generally don't fall below 20 degrees.

 

[NealR5]

Hi All,
I hope all my questions don't become annoying but the closer I get to my install the more questions are popping into my head.
1 Chimney: any particular brand or company to purchse from? I believe my roof pitch 6/12 but I will comirm that. Interior pipe, single or double wall?
2 floor protection: Pacific Energy stated, The stove may be installed on a combustible
floor provided noncombustible ember
protection is used.
This protection must extend as follows:
In Canada: 18" (457 mm) on the fi ring side
and 8" (203 mm) to the other sides. See
Figure #5 on left.
In USA: 16" (406 mm) to the front and 8"
(203 mm) to the sides of the fuel loading
door opening. See Figure #6 on right.
This protection is also required under the
chimney connector and 2" (51 mm) beyond
Does this mean I can use 2x4 framing, durarock as decking and 1 inch thick stone and morter or less. The way I read that is I'm only required to have ember protection and not required to meet any R value underneath. Is that to good to be true?
3 Outside Chimney: We have some big pine and ceadar trees around here, how far should my chimney be from these trees and branches?
4 Aldelia T6 price: Okay I know this is subjective but I'll ask it anyhow. I'm purchaing my stove used. It's 7 years old and was used for one season and has been in storage ever since. ( so the story goes) It came from a foreclosed vacation cabin and looks to be in fantastic shape. We negotiated a purchase price of 2,200.00 and the stove inculdes a fan and screen. I think it's a little high for a used stove but my wife love the looks and we have been saving/planning on purchasing a new t4 or 5 for two years so this provides a bigger stove with a couple of add ons. What do you think about the price?

 

[thechimneysweep]

1. As long as you choose type ASHT chimney, we don't have a preference. All have passed the same safety testing.
2. Ember protection means no R rating necessary. We've used 1/4" ceramic tile, pavers, stone and even glass.
3. Tree branches need to be trimmed back 10' from the chimney.
4. A new T6 with blower and fire screen sells for $3350.00, so $2200.00 seems a fair price for one with only one season's use.

 

[begreen]

Tom is the man and PE authority. His shop is where we got our T6 from. Our T6 is 8 yrs old and version A which this used one will be also. They changed the EBT in the newer version T6 which is a distinct advantage. The old EBT fed the boost manifold. The new EBT now regulates the secondary air. They also changed the baffle secondary holes to a more uniform pattern. For these reasons, I think the price is a bit high. It is about what the stove cost new back 7 yrs ago I think, though maybe without the blower?

That said our first generation T6 continues to be a very able performer. I taped over the EBT for a more controlled burn with our good draft. In this mild winter we have been getting regular 12 hr burns with a combo of soft and hardwood.

Our flue system is DuraTech chimney with Duravent DVL double-wall stove pipe. It's a 20ft. straight up installation. There have been no issues with the flue system other than the screen clogging a couple years ago due to a cord of damp maple being burned.

 

[NealR5]

Hi Folks,
I'm picking our stove up tomorrow I didn't feel the deal was a screaming great deal but we both like it and it's save a little over a grand. Other than the EBT are there other changes in design I should be aware? Are the newer stoves much more efficent? The seller doesn't have the original manual will the clearances be the same as the manual that is availbale online? As far as clearances from trees and branches I;m assuming that the ten footdistanc applies to brances and tree trunks, Is that correct?

Thanks again
If you were close by I would buy you a beer.

 

[thechimneysweep]

Your stove would be a Series A, which had slightly different clearance requirements than the newer model. We show both on our website at (broken link removed to http://www.chimneysweeponline.com/cpacaldert6.htm)

The ten foot clearance requirement is to anything combustible, including branches & trunks.

 

[NealR5]

Hi All,
Here is a photo the stove in it's general location. I have it 12 inches from any combustable. Now to building a hearth/ember protection.

Thanks to everyone who kicked in some advise.

Neal

 

[begreen]

Was the ceiling fan always on when the fireplace was burning?

 

[NealR5]

Begreen,

We have two cieling fans in this room and yes we use the to help circulate the heat. And the barn door blocks our staircase/upstairs. We use that as a "thermometer". We close it and slowly open the door as our downstairs warms up.
Do you think I should pull the stove farther out or is 12 inch clearance safe w/o a cool wall. I know pacific energy says 4inch clearance but I'm a worry wart.
Neal

 

[madison]

jeez that looks almost new, nice find.

My corners are about 7" from 4" thick stone, and the stone barely gets warm.

I would leave it and make its final home be dictated by wherever you can get a straight up connection to the chimney, which then would dictate its final location. I would avoid at all cost elbows etc to navigate/transition the chimney through the ceiling and roof.

 

[begreen]

12" would be excessive. The minimum corner clearance for the T6 version A is 4". Our stove is at 6" to drywall. It never gets over 130F back there.