0028 VC Defiant Encore damper stuck open and other problems...

[pghgrl]

The damper won't close. I knew there was trouble brewing, but I thought I could make it through this winter - nope. The damper handle had been... wobbly... for want of a better word. Finicky, but eventually I could get the damper closed (easier once the stove warmed up). I'd tightened the screw on the handle anyway, but it didn't help - I knew the problem was something inside and I fear there will be a total rebuild in the future, but it's going to be 8 degrees overnight and I'm a little panicked...

• is it dumb to try to operate the woodstove with the damper wide open, i.e. am I just going to have all the heat sucked up the chimney?
• if I do make a fire with the damper wide open, should I remove the cat first (this is a total pain in the a** because I have to remove the cast iron access panel from the back of the stove and one of the screws is already all but stripped) ((I know they need replacing completely but the owner's manuals and YouTube videos for Defiant Encore stoves are all newer and unhelpful, so it took me quite a while to figure out 1200896 1/4 -20 x 5/8 PH RD HD MACH SC is what I need)) because I JUST got a new cat and I would like to protect my investment.
• IF I remove the cat, can anyone predict how the airflow will be affected? Should I close the secondary air?
• related question: is it safe to chip away furnace cement on a cold stove?

<sigh> This is my first post; I've been reading every thread on this forum for two years and it is only because there are so many experts who are so generous with their knowledge. To all who read this ridiculously long post, thanks! To all who offer their expert advice, thanks so much!

 

[fbelec]

operating your stove with the damper wide open is fine you will smoke a bit more and will not get as long out of a burn as usual just remember to adjust your air because it will run different.

you don't have to remove your cat just don't flip your damper closed and it will be out of the loop

if you remove the cat and flip your damper it won't make a difference than burning the stove with the damper handle open

if you start chipping away at your cement it's then time to do a rebuild and seal. don't chip cement off and then run it. the stove might run away temp wise and you won't get any length out of a burn

 

[fbelec]

and also i forgot if you have a stuck damper and it gets better with heat the insides are probably warped

 

[pghgrl]

and also i forgot if you have a stuck damper and it gets better with heat the insides are probably warped

Actually, I am pretty sure things are warped and wonky - the house in which this stove has resided is also warped and wonky - full of love and quirks from the previous owners, but NOTHING was built right in the first place or maintained well in the second place.

 

[Eman85]

Sorry I'm late to the party.
I ran my 0028 for a few years and never closed the damper, works fine and will put more heat in the house. You will need to clean the flue as you'll make creosote.
On to the damper problem. The handle on the left is mechanical linkage and there is a cover inside the stove that you can remove to access it. The damper itself is retained by 2 little tabs on each end held by bolts. The tabs bend easily and can cause problems. There's a rod that attaches to the back of the damper with a little retainer held by a bolt, check to see if that rod is in place.

 

[pghgrl]

Hey Eman85 - thanks for the advice and info - your reply it isn't too late for the party whatsoever! I have looked at the assembly diagrams and thought there was something that must have come undone but from your post it sounds like there are two possibilities for what's going on. I'll take a look for the rod and post my findings afterward but I'm not sure about getting the cover off - how do I do that?

 

[Eman85]

Stove's lit right now so I can't look! Inside the stove left upper I believe there are 2 screws retaining the cover. Once off you can see the mechanism. I had mine come off once when I was removing my damper for cleaning/regasketing. Access to the back of the damper is real easy if you take the flue adapter off. I had mine apart for a new gasket this year and I had to straighten the tab on the right side that held the damper, mine would cock out of position when I tried to close it.

 

[GrumpyDad]

Hey Eman85 - thanks for the advice and info - your reply it isn't too late for the party whatsoever! I have looked at the assembly diagrams and thought there was something that must have come undone but from your post it sounds like there are two possibilities for what's going on. I'll take a look for the rod and post my findings afterward but I'm not sure about getting the cover off - how do I do that?

Pittsburgh

 

[pghgrl]

Pittsburgh

'tis the best thing that ever happened to me, truly.

 

[pghgrl]

"...never closed the damper, works fine and will put more heat in the house" - our experience has been less heat in the house, actually, and we're blazing through wood quickly (although the winter has been so lame here, we'll probably be fine for spring). At any rate, we're going to have the stove rebuilt this summer - not cheap, but better than a whole new stove, and we'll see how it works when it's in tip-top condition