10°

[Easy Livin’ 3000]

Some of my chains specify a 10° angle on the side plate when sharpening. It's a real pain in the ass keeping track, and holding the angle. My bench grinder does not have this adjustment.

If I just ignored the 10° spec when sharpening the ones that are spec'd for that, and went at a right angle to the bar, how much do I give up?

Some additional background:
I ordered 2 similar Woodland Pro chains from Baileys last year, they both say Carlton on the links. One is chisel, the other semi- chisel. The semi- chisel one does not specify the 10° offset, the chisel one does. I can only ID which is which by holding them right next to each other and comparing.

Next are two identical Oregon vanguards. Chisel, 10° side plate spec, and those bent over rakers. Not awesome.

I also have two identical Stihl chains for the saw. Both are Chisel and no 10° side plate spec. These are my favorite of the group, but were expensive. I found a pipe with the first one within 30 minutes of putting it on, and cracked a cutter link. I rocked the second cutting a log that was too big for me to lift off the ground.

 

[TreePointer]

I sharpen all my chains to be like Stihl chains (no 10* angle) and I am happy.

 

[woodhog73]

I also don't sharpen with any up or down angle. I just follow the guide marks on the cutters but keep my file level.

Perhaps I'm not doing it 100 percent correct but my chains always cut great with a sharp edge, most of the time anyways.

 

[Easy Livin’ 3000]

I also don't sharpen with any up or down angle. I just follow the guide marks on the cutters but keep my file level.

Perhaps I'm not doing it 100 percent correct but my chains always cut great with a sharp edge, most of the time anyways.

Thanks woodhog. I wish I could say the same. I actually feel like I am getting worse results the more I do. Not good!

I am determined to figure it out, just at a low point in my chain sharpening journey currently.

 

[Jags]

If you get worse results as you go - can I assume that you arn't working on the rakers when you file. Raker height has to be adjusted as the tooth gets shorter.

 

[Easy Livin’ 3000]

If you get worse results as you go - can I assume that you arn't working on the rakers when you file. Raker height has to be adjusted as the tooth gets shorter.

I wish it were that. I work the rakers too, I'm just horrible with all the angles.

 

[jetsam]

Get yourself a Granberg jig. They're cheap and work really well. Downside is that it is pretty slow.

I sharpen by hand while I'm out sawing (every tooth gets a few licks, move on). When I have time to sit down and spend some time on it, I break out the Granberg and correct all of my hand filing mistakes (including raker height).

For me, a hand sharpened chain is better than a dull chain, but a jig filed chain is better than either.

I used to think I was pretty good at hand filing, but I don't anymore now that I have the jig.

 

[Easy Livin’ 3000]

Get yourself a Granberg jig. They're cheap and work really well. Downside is that it is pretty slow.

I sharpen by hand while I'm out sawing (every tooth gets a few licks, move on). When I have time to sit down and spend some time on it, I break out the Granberg and correct all of my hand filing mistakes (including raker height).

For me, a hand sharpened chain is better than a dull chain, but a jig filed chain is better than either.

I used to think I was pretty good at hand filing, but I don't anymore now that I have the jig.

I am going to have to do that. I've been contemplating it for a while, time to pull the trigger.