15 yr VC Defiant Encore gaps

[Fieldborntemple]

I just got a new-to-me VC Encore Defiant model 2550.
Haven't fired it up yet.
I am new to woodstoves but very handy/capable so I am planning on making this one operable.

It clearly needs new gaskets (ordered online and on their way) for the doors, lower fireback, griddle... so I got the gasket kit for those.

The Refractory Chamber is not in bade shape except a few of the corners are a little crumbled/rounded off.

The Catalyst appears to be in decent shape, no damage or buildup, just faded looking.

My concern comes down to:
I don't know what the inside of this thing SHOULD look like with regard to what should be gasketed or not.
The Left and Right Inner Side pieces, the Outer Back, and a few other places have what appear to be mostly missing broken pieces of an old solidified sealant of some kind... it almost looks like old cast-iron plumbing when they used lead to seal joints. Based on the research I've done I'm guessing it may be the remnants of high-temp furnace cement?

Can anyone throw some input my way as to whether these pieces (at least the pieces I've specifically named) should be sealed or not? If so I'm hoping I can just wire brush the gaps and reapply some high-temp furnace cement.

The concept of the functionality of some of these pieces in the stove eludes me so I'm not sure what should be sealed and what should be left unsealed and what damage may be caused by firing it up if there are some gaps where there should not be.

I can upload pics of anything more specific upon request.

Thanks for your input!

 

[DougA]

I used to own a non-cat Resolute which is similar. I'm not an expert on your model, perhaps someone else will help more.

Once you have re-gasketed all the doors, etc., I would do some trial burns to see how it is performing. The answer on more sealing will depend more upon your draft IMHO. I used to have back puffing problems and if that happens, smoke will belch out of every crack, regardless of how well sealed it is. If you seal it too well, the griddle on top will pop up instead. That's a draft/fire issue, not a gasket one.

The real danger with too many cracks or bad gaskets is with uncontrolled over firing. That's when every control is shut to the max but too much air is still getting in and the temps get too high for too long. I very much doubt that will happen but you need to be aware of this, just in case.

Make sure you clean the gasket grooves with a soft wire brush to get all remaining glue and material off before re-gasketing. The operation manual will be on line if you don't already have one.

 

[webby3650]

The cement you are seeing is what pumped out of the joint when they assembled the stove. It's normal to see chunks falling off of the inside. The other gaps around the side panels look correct.
Although with its age it is possible that it could need a rebuild. Just have to burn it and see..

 

[fishinpa]

My buddy has a well used Joutle. We had to re-cement tall 4 corners because you could literally see the fire within, through the corners from the outside. We used a type of chimney cement that is pliable like plumbers putty.

 

[webby3650]

My buddy has a well used Joutle. We had to re-cement tall 4 corners because you could literally see the fire within, through the corners from the outside. We used a type of chimney cement that is pliable like plumbers putty.

It's refractory cement. Furnace cement is what's typically used and it can be bought in caulking tubes.
The only way to seal a stove up properly is to tear it apart and rebuild it. Caulking over the leaks is just a bandaid and will not last. A good rebuild should hold up for 15-20 years or so.

 

[jharkin]

The inner side panels are gasketed and held in with 2 bolts each. You can't see the gasket unless you take them out. They will not come out without removing the lower fireback first.

In my signature there is a link to a rebuild thread that shows it all with photos. Do not go trying to cement anything from the inside without disassembling it all as mentioned above as you may glue in parts meant to be removable.

If refractory and cat look good, check gaskets of griddle, doors, ash pan, damper and lower fireback. If all are tight give it a test burn. Rebuilding is a BIG job best avoided unless really necessary.

 

[Fieldborntemple]

Thank you all for the input! I will re-gasket the griddle, doors, ash pan, lower fireback (I'll get the damper next summer), and fire her up.

When I test burn, I will do a visual inspection for light or smoke coming out of any part of the stove.
I will also get a rolling fire going with a small amount of wood and then close the air supply to the stove and watch to see if the fire is still getting air, if so I will know there is a serious leak somewhere.

Next summer I'll take a look at that rebuild thread Jharkin recommended and see about going that route.

Any other suggestions for a beginner with regard to a test-burn?

Thanks again everyone!

 

[jharkin]

You won't likely see smoke leaking out unless the stack is back drafting. To test for leaks get an incense stick and wave it around all seams looking for smoke being sucked in.

If you do this test, note that there are two small supplemental air intakes in the ash pan hidden behind the front legs. These are supposed to be open.


For the test burn just use common sense, don't fill it completely full of wood until you are confident its tight and the air control is working and slows the fire down as it should.

 

[jharkin]

Operation tips...

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/2015-2016-vc-owners-thread.146842/page-2#post-1995626

 

[Fieldborntemple]

Operation tips...

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/2015-2016-vc-owners-thread.146842/page-2#post-1995626

Fabulous, thank you much. That is great info I'll definitely use.

 

[Woody Stover]

You can also look at the seams from outside, in a dark room, while an assistant shines a bright light on them from inside the firebox.