16" chainsaw to 18"??

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muncybob

Minister of Fire
Apr 8, 2008
2,158
Near Williamsport, PA
I have an old Poulan 16" chainsaw that needed a new chain...TSC had 16" replacements so I tried one but it was just over 1" longer than the original. Tried a 14" but was too short. They have an 18" bar and chain complete and it appears to be identical to the old bar except of course longer. Installed it and seems to work fine. Any problem doing this?
 
Whe you get a replacement chain, make sure it is one made for your chainsaw and bar. As you found out, all 16" chains are not the same length, as is true with other lengths of chain. Getting a replacement chain with the same number of drive links, same pitch, and same type of cutters should work.
 
I have a 4018 Poulan, came with an 18" bar and chain. Over time I hit a few nails with the chain and the bar was getting a little mushroomed at the tip. Decided to buy a 16" bar and chain and it made a real big difference. Doesn't bog down when the bar is burried in a cut. I'm glad I went to the 16" bar and chain. Not sure how big your saw is. Might notice it or might not.
 
You're always ahead with the shortest bar you can get away with, for the reasons relating to power already mentioned. Like my daddy always says: "If your bar is never too short, it's always too long." Theoretically, you can cut a 32" tree with a 16" bar if, like my old man, you know what you're doing.
 
computeruser said:
The only problem I see is the choice to buy saw parts and accessories at TSC.

:lol: :lol: <snicker>

Chain saw snob ;-P
 
Jags said:
computeruser said:
The only problem I see is the choice to buy saw parts and accessories at TSC.

:lol: :lol: <snicker>

Chain saw snob ;-P

That's me! In all seriousness, though, had he gone to a proper saw shop he would have walked out with loop that had the correct number of drive links, instead of a new bar and chain combo in a different size that he really didn't want in the first place. And I suspect it would have cost less, too!
 
The other problem with buying at TSC and such stores, is that everything they sell is geared toward the low kickback safety chain. If you go to a proper saw shop or buy online from one, you'll be amazed at the difference in the quality of the chains.
 
OK...I admit I went to TSC out of convenience(they are only 2 miles away) and it was late Sunday. I have only ran the saw but have not used it so the bar is returnable. Since the general consensus is to stick with 16" and go to an actual shop that knows their stuff I'll do that(I am really a saw newbie so thanx!). For future reference how about some good online sources you guys can recommend?
 
Bailey's, Amick's and ASC Auto Parts on Ebay. All three have great prices on chain and other wood cutting needs and have reasonable shipping. Often if you are willing to buy several chains in one order the price per chain will actually get below what you are paying at TSC or most saw shops. Definately better than what they have at TSC and on level with a good shop.
 
Eric Johnson said:
You're always ahead with the shortest bar you can get away with, for the reasons relating to power already mentioned. Like my daddy always says: "If your bar is never too short, it's always too long." Theoretically, you can cut a 32" tree with a 16" bar if, like my old man, you know what you're doing.

Here all saws come whit a 14" bar.I have never seen a 18" bar :)
 
They always put bars that are too long for the saw on in North America. Some kind of Freudian thing, I think. The Swedes know what they're talking about when it comes to chain saws.

Ever heard of Soren Eriksson, Hansson? He came over here in the early '80s and taught all the loggers how to cut wood right. Now most loggers follow his advice (open face notches, plunge cutting, short bars, personal protective equipment, etc.).
 
Eric Johnson said:
They always put bars that are too long for the saw on in North America. Some kind of Freudian thing, I think.

AMEN! !

I love my 460's power, and a 20" bar best. I own a longer bar, but rarely use it, only for dropping a really big tree & cut'n it to rounds. Then back to the 20" for anything else.

And with a shorter bar you'd have to be really leaning on a 460 in something like hickory or Osage to work the saw hard.
 
Eric Johnson said:
They always put bars that are too long for the saw on in North America. Some kind of Freudian thing, I think. The Swedes know what they're talking about when it comes to chain saws.

Ever heard of Soren Eriksson, Hansson? He came over here in the early '80s and taught all the loggers how to cut wood right. Now most loggers follow his advice (open face notches, plunge cutting, short bars, personal protective equipment, etc.).

Never herd of Soren Eriksson, I did think that you have really big treas in the US.
Like we say.It`s alvays bigger in the US ;-)
 
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