2 questions...

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bmarleyzq8

New Member
Jan 28, 2017
16
Michigan
I'm new to the world of pellets and don't really know where to begin. I purchased a Harman Allure 50 and had it installed. My first issue is the install itself. I had a pre-purchase appointment where my dealer came to my house and looked at where I wanted to install the stove. The dealer and I both agreed on the location. Before they arrived, I actually had two hearth pad templates made out of cardboard as well as a template of the stove so that we could agree on a pad before I had one made. The dealer told me the first choice wouldn't work but the second one would. I had the pad made for a corner installation exactly the same as the template. 4 months or so later, the stove arrived and was scheduled for installation. Unfortunately due to work, I couldn't be there for the install but my wife could be. When I got home I noticed that they pulled the pad away from the wall to allow extra clearance in front of the door. So now I have about 8" of tile extending beyond the front of the door and about a two inch gap between the back sides of the pad and the wall baseboard. It was explained to my wife that they HAD to do this because of liability which I do understand but I cant leave it this way. My intention is to move the pad back to the walls leaving the stove in the same spot its in now and still leaving 4-6" of tile beyond the door. The problem is that the stove weighs a ton and there is nothing to grab on to, to lift and the stove pipe is all connected with some sort of adhesive preventing me from disconnecting it from the stove and walking it off the pad and then back on. Any suggestions?

Also, how the heck do I shop for pellets? I'm ok with spending a little more for quality but I really don't know how to determine what is and isn't a good pellet. I do have a Tractor supply and Family Farm and Home both in my town but besides that, I'd need to travel about 50 miles or better to get to like a Lowes/Home Depot and about 80 mile to get to my Harman dealer. Thank you in advance for any help.
 
I don't know the how the base of the stove is made but I have moved several stoves by putting rods or pipe under the stove to roll it. Couple of 3/8 inch rods does wonders. One only needs to rock the stove a bit to get a piece of rod under to start.
If you get the pipe apart, good luck on that if they used silicone high temp, reinstall using silicone self bonding tape on the outside. It is easy then to cut on the seam and peel off.

Welcome
 
So my TSC carries "Pro Pellets" and "Michigan Pellets". Our Family Farm carries "Pro Pellets" and "smith Creek Supreme Comfort" I plan on purchasing a couple bags of each to fire up the stove and try them out, but honestly I wont know which is better because I'm not really sure what to look for? This will be my first time lighting a pellet stove. What should I watch for?
 
Try to tap (and I mean tap only) the pad with a 5# sledge and the hearth protector will move just a bit. If you do this on each of the corners, then check to see if the stove is staying in place (the pipe should give a bit of stabilizing pushback so as long as you go gently and slowly you should be okay). You could even put a few lengths of 2x4 braced between the baseboards and the stove base to help keep it from moving (probably should have put that as a first thing to do).

Even for 2" this should be a relatively time-consuming project because if you try to force it faster the stove WILL move and then you WILL have unintended consequences with the pipe joints and at the thimble; not probably severe, but very inconvenient and you will have to fix before going further. Regardless of how slowly you move it, you should check all connections and at the thimble to make sure you didn't dislodge any sealant. Or even better, in my mind anyway, wrap any connections with self sticking, hi-temp silicone tape over the sealant then you will be sure.

Harman's usually aren't picky so I don't see why your TSC pellets shouldn't work well.
 
If It were me I'd just put a course of bricks or paver stones (What ever matches your layout) along the back edge to cover the 2" gap.
Not familiar with your stove but the Manufacturer probably mandates that 6" of non combustible in front of the door (I know not really needed) but its probably shown in the install manual and your insurance company (And fire inspector) will probably force it anyway.

That way you wont have to mess up the vent joints until you have to clean the vent Mid-season.

Good Luck,
---Nailer---
 
If It were me I'd just put a course of bricks or paver stones (What ever matches your layout) along the back edge to cover the 2" gap.
Not familiar with your stove but the Manufacturer probably mandates that 6" of non combustible in front of the door (I know not really needed) but its probably shown in the install manual and your insurance company (And fire inspector) will probably force it anyway.

That way you wont have to mess up the vent joints until you have to clean the vent Mid-season.

Good Luck,
---Nailer---

Agreed - they require 6" in front of the stove, but from the description, the installer put it 8" in front of stove - thus the 2" gap in back.
 
Try to tap (and I mean tap only) the pad with a 5# sledge and the hearth protector will move just a bit. If you do this on each of the corners, then check to see if the stove is staying in place (the pipe should give a bit of stabilizing pushback so as long as you go gently and slowly you should be okay). You could even put a few lengths of 2x4 braced between the baseboards and the stove base to help keep it from moving (probably should have put that as a first thing to do).

Even for 2" this should be a relatively time-consuming project because if you try to force it faster the stove WILL move and then you WILL have unintended consequences with the pipe joints and at the thimble; not probably severe, but very inconvenient and you will have to fix before going further. Regardless of how slowly you move it, you should check all connections and at the thimble to make sure you didn't dislodge any sealant. Or even better, in my mind anyway, wrap any connections with self sticking, hi-temp silicone tape over the sealant then you will be sure.

Harman's usually aren't picky so I don't see why your TSC pellets shouldn't work well.


The sledge and 2x4 worked very nicely. Thank you!
 
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