2008 Leyden Auger Groan

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richkorn

Minister of Fire
Hearth Supporter
Jul 28, 2008
640
SE CT
After 8 years the Leyden Auger is making some serious groaning noise. Reading through some "old" posts here: https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/lopi-leyden-auger-removal.65095/ it appears that the problem is the lower auger brass bushing (binding, corroded, worn out etc.). I loosened the Auger Motor locking collar so it was not attached to the auger and the motor spins fine and quiet. The groan is coming from where the lower auger goes through that bushing to attach to the motor.

In that old thread Wood Heat Stoves says to just replace the Lower Auger Bearing Plate. The bearing (called it an "oilett"?) is part of the plate. Also in that thread is says Travis Ind. tech said to just clean the auger end and that bushing with some fine steel wool.

I am going to the dealer to order that plate with the bushing and will replace it. Will also clean one on there now. A few questions for anyone that has done this on a Leyden or Avalon or similar:

1. Does the motor just slide out of the motor stop bracket? Looks like it just sits in there and there are rubber bumpers (black circle below arrow) on each side. I can't remove that bracket ahead of time as it is bolted from the top of the auger bearing plate. When I loosed the auger locking collar (Allen bolt) the motor did slide up and down a bit.

2. Is that a gasket underneath the bearing plate or maybe high temp silicone (the red stuff)?

3. Any other advice?
Thanks!

[Hearth.com] 2008 Leyden Auger Groan
 
You are correct. The motor will slide out once the allen head screw is loosened. Getting the bushing plate off can be fun as it is siliconed on with red rtv. A nice flathead works wonders. After its off getting the auger worm screw out of the bushing itself can be fun, sometimes a nice strike of a chisel on the brass bushing is enough to split it and allow the tension to be taken off the auger worm screw.. Then re-install is just the opposite of removal, just make sure the top of the worm screw is fitted correctly into the top auger bushing!
 
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I have played around with mine and the groan I hear on mine is the variable fan. On the lowest setting there is an occational noise that sounds like a groan. I have unbolted the 2 bolts holding the fan and reattached after cleaning the area out. Good luck with that project you are on. I think you will be good to go soon enough. Those Lopi Leydens are a powerhouse of a heat!
 
I have played around with mine and the groan I hear on mine is the variable fan. On the lowest setting there is an occational noise that sounds like a groan. I have unbolted the 2 bolts holding the fan and reattached after cleaning the area out. Good luck with that project you are on. I think you will be good to go soon enough. Those Lopi Leydens are a powerhouse of a heat!

Thanks Steve,

Got it all apart - It was pretty corroded and bound up in that brass bushing, little PB Blaster loosened it. Hardest was the lower bushing plate. Used a chisel and hammer around the edges. I cleaned it up and will save as a spare, ordered new one from dealer. Cleaned up auger screw also and it is fine. At least now I know how this comes apart if I have to do it again. Still going to clean up the auger motor it was pretty junked up. Under the plate was red RTV. Thanks!

zrtmatos - Yeah I've had that also; I replaced the convection blower once and now pull it and clean each year and a few drop of blue 3-in-1 in oil ports.
 
Sure thing bud. Those are great stoves, I've worked on my fair share of them!
 
Yeah the Leyden has been real good and looks great; one heavy SOB - too bad they discontinued it.

8 years of corrosion:
[Hearth.com] 2008 Leyden Auger Groan
 
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You are correct. The motor will slide out once the allen head screw is loosened. Getting the bushing plate off can be fun as it is siliconed on with red rtv. A nice flathead works wonders. After its off getting the auger worm screw out of the bushing itself can be fun, sometimes a nice strike of a chisel on the brass bushing is enough to split it and allow the tension to be taken off the auger worm screw.. Then re-install is just the opposite of removal, just make sure the top of the worm screw is fitted correctly into the top auger bushing!

I got a new plate with oilite bushing. Will it hurt to put a few drops of 3-in-1 oil in this new bushing (and the top one) before reinstalling the auger?

Also - the red RTV -- Should I scrape off all the original stuff and reapply fresh red RTV gasket?

Thanks.
 
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