2019 Regency wood Burners

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SnowmanNH

New Member
Jan 21, 2019
23
New Hampshire
Hello! As a new Regency burner I wanted to start a thread devoted to our brand to capture our specific systems and their quirks and tricks.

I have learned tons in a short time on Hearth..I hope you all do as well!

My first EPA stove is a F3500 and all I can say is HOLY HEAT..Nice long burns for not the best wood on the planet and cat activity consistent for hours.

Of course there are many things left for me to learn but I am very happy with the investment just a short time in.

What is your Regency experience?
 

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Have a Regency H2100. Works wonderfully. Heats the living/dining/kitchen beautifully (sometimes too much so as I’ve had the temp in the low80’s.)

Been studying Hearth.com for over a year. If I was to distill it all down, the things I’ve learned are:
1) Get dry wood. These wood stoves REQUIRE low-moisture wood (20% or lower if you can) else get compressed sawdust logs.
2). Super Cedars rule. Forget scrounging for a few small pieces of tinder to start. Small piece of super cedar to start some larger kindling just works.

It is beyond words to describe the feeling that I can keep my family warm. *without using our central heat*. After facing a 1200 dollar electric bill a couple of years ago, the investment in this Regency stove will pay itself off in 3 years.

I think@bholler may have had a regency system before he went the Blaze King route. I think he gets teased about the switch. For chimney and other questions around that, he is the guy to go to.

In all jest, there appears to be a holy war between the Blaze King users and the rest of the proletariat. Kind of like the Windows/Mac wars.
 
Have a Regency H2100. Works wonderfully. Heats the living/dining/kitchen beautifully (sometimes too much so as I’ve had the temp in the low80’s.)

Been studying Hearth.com for over a year. If I was to distill it all down, the things I’ve learned are:
1) Get dry wood. These wood stoves REQUIRE low-moisture wood (20% or lower if you can) else get compressed sawdust logs.
2). Super Cedars rule. Forget scrounging for a few small pieces of tinder to start. Small piece of super cedar to start some larger kindling just works.

It is beyond words to describe the feeling that I can keep my family warm. *without using our central heat*. After facing a 1200 dollar electric bill a couple of years ago, the investment in this Regency stove will pay itself off in 3 years.

I think@bholler may have had a regency system before he went the Blaze King route. I think he gets teased about the switch. For chimney and other questions around that, he is the guy to go to.

In all jest, there appears to be a holy war between the Blaze King users and the rest of the proletariat. Kind of like the Windows/Mac wars.


Awesome info! I agree wet wood seems to be the cause of all evils..

I use the Safe light fire starters...cheap and effective although with the negative temps we have been having there is no need..lol. Load, enjoy, repeat!

Love the BK wars so to speak...I looked hard at em..just can’t beat the numbers on these Regency’s.
 
Have a Regency H2100. Works wonderfully. Heats the living/dining/kitchen beautifully (sometimes too much so as I’ve had the temp in the low80’s.)

Been studying Hearth.com for over a year. If I was to distill it all down, the things I’ve learned are:
1) Get dry wood. These wood stoves REQUIRE low-moisture wood (20% or lower if you can) else get compressed sawdust logs.
2). Super Cedars rule. Forget scrounging for a few small pieces of tinder to start. Small piece of super cedar to start some larger kindling just works.

It is beyond words to describe the feeling that I can keep my family warm. *without using our central heat*. After facing a 1200 dollar electric bill a couple of years ago, the investment in this Regency stove will pay itself off in 3 years.

I think@bholler may have had a regency system before he went the Blaze King route. I think he gets teased about the switch. For chimney and other questions around that, he is the guy to go to.

In all jest, there appears to be a holy war between the Blaze King users and the rest of the proletariat. Kind of like the Windows/Mac wars.
I was just lent a bk princess for a season to try my 3100 will be going back in next year. There are things I like better about the bk and things I like better about the regency. Both are good stoves.
 
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Love this a page just for regency, exchange info and tips. I have an insert CS2600 pro series first one then I built an extension 32 by 18.9 with 10 foot ceiling and had the F3500 pro series stove installed. Later on when I have time, I have some great info to share. Will blow your mind away.
 
Question for you guys...stove is a week old and am noticing that I tend to get quite a bit of moisture at the stack..I understand I should see some of this but want to make sure this isn’t indicative of another issue.. The other morning I had a 2 foot icicle hanging from the lower side of the cap..stove was just coals and holding 400 degree stove top.
 

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Question for you guys...stove is a week old and am noticing that I tend to get quite a bit of moisture at the stack..I understand I should see some of this but want to make sure this isn’t indicative of another issue.. The other morning I had a 2 foot icicle hanging from the lower side of the cap..stove was just coals and holding 400 degree stove top.
Most likely your wood isn’t seasoned also it’s a new stove the firebrick contains moisture as well.
 
[Hearth.com] 2019 Regency wood Burners
This is a chart of my burn inside temp in the CS2600.

[Hearth.com] 2019 Regency wood Burners
The stove F3500 red inside stove temp, green stove top temp. Air a little over 1/4 open.

[Hearth.com] 2019 Regency wood Burners
Stove F3500 air 1/4 open.

These charts are both stove and insert completely full.
 
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Love this a page just for regency, exchange info and tips. I have an insert CS2600 pro series first one then I built an extension 32 by 18.9 with 10 foot ceiling and had the F3500 pro series stove installed. Later on when I have time, I have some great info to share. Will blow your mind away.
C
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This is a chart of my burn inside temp in the CS2600.
holy cow!!! That is some serious heat...I dont see the low stove tops that you showed on the other post.I am always above 700 for a while after I close the damper then still over 600. My wood isn’t great but no more than 19% on fresh splits that I can find. How big of splits do you run in the 3500? And do you stack it full to the gills ?
 
C

holy cow!!! That is some serious heat...I dont see the low stove tops that you showed on the other post.I am always above 700 for a while after I close the damper then still over 600. My wood isn’t great but no more than 19% on fresh splits that I can find. How big of splits do you run in the 3500? And do you stack it full to the gills ?
Just saw it was full......lol
 
I got it 2 years ago, they use it for pizza ovens. Called the company and picked their brain on what I wanted and they came up with this. They may have new ones now.
 
Very impressive engineering..lol. What type of thermocouple are you using? How did you get the probe inside the box?

We run type J wire at my plant but I am guessing you use one with a higher top end?

Have you replaced the provided cat probe for one with actual temps on it?
 
Long time lurker here and have learned so much as I started burning with an EPA stove. My stove is a Regency Hampton H300 that I've burned for almost two seasons her in south/central NC. My previous wood stoves have been older Fishers which I loved. I must say it has been a pleasure learning to operate the H300. While I have nothing to compare them to (other than Fisher), these are fine stoves and seem very well made.

In my relatively mild climate in NC, the H300 has no problem heating my entire 2400 sq ft house. Very impressed.
 
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Welcome fvhowler, is your stove the primary heat
Thanks Wolves1. During heating season (December-March) I run the stove about 75% of the time. We built a custom house on wooded lot so a wood stove was planned from the the beginning. Our 2 story farmhouse has an open floor plan. I got a great deal on the H300 but did worry if it was big enough to do the job.

On our coldest nights (teens-low 20s) it gets down to 67* in the house and I usually have good coals to rekindle the fire in the morning. I have been fascinated with secondary burn and these high efficiency stoves, something I knew nothing about until last year. All things considered: my climate, floorplan, new construction, unlimited supply of oak/hickory (from my 5 acre wooded lot), I think the H300 is just about right...and my wife is happy ; )

When not burning, the heatpump is used.
 
Hi I have an HI2450. I got it late winter 2020 so didnt use it much until now. I’ve had the glass crack and it was replaced. Can someone tell me how hot it will be for overfiring? I don’t think I’ve have done that. I take temps with IR gun on the top of the enamel shelf and it has never been over 200. The glass has read higher than 520 bc the gun does not register higher than that.
[Hearth.com] 2019 Regency wood Burners
 
I have the H2100. I can get set top temperatures around 450-500. Rarely will I stuff the firebox, which is less than 2 cubic feet.
 
Hi I have an HI2450. I got it late winter 2020 so didnt use it much until now. I’ve had the glass crack and it was replaced. Can someone tell me how hot it will be for overfiring? I don’t think I’ve have done that. I take temps with IR gun on the top of the enamel shelf and it has never been over 200. The glass has read higher than 520 bc the gun does not register higher than that.
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You’d be surprised how easy it can be to overfire if not paying attention. The top of the shelf isn’t a good place to measure temps. If your Hampton is like my I2400 (same firebox), there is an air gap between the shelf you describe and the actual stove top. I have a magnetic thermometer on the face of the stove in the corner above the door. When checking with an IR gun, I take readings in the corner and middle right above the door. With a full load of dry wood, the unit cruises right up to 600-650F in the corner above the door for 1-2 hours when the secondaries really get going. If it starts going above 650 up toward 700, I start to get nervous and put the blower on high until it comes back down a bit. On two occasions with a full load of good dry wood and strong secondaries it has gotten to the point where a very faint red glow is visible from the stove top inside the convection vents above the door. That is clearly overfire territory, and isn’t hard to do if you aren’t paying attention to shut things down soon enough (at least with my setup).

I actually marked my air control rod with a paint pen for different settings that work well based on the size load. That helps me get back to the same spot so I can consistently maintain a safe burn intensity. During the day I do hot reloads of 2-3 splits at a time with the air about half open. With that the stove usually burns between 400-550F in the corner above the door, throwing nice heat with the blower on low.

I’ve included a photo of my setup to illustrate what I mean about the gap below the shelf and thermometer location.
 

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