25-pvdp Pellet stove blowing cool air?

[Mjfargo]

Hello everyone,
New to the pellet stove world and hoping for some help! I have an England stove works pellet stove model: 25-pdvp/55-shp15. I have two issues going on with it. First issue, my stove seems to only be blowing cool air, no matter how long it's been running. Second issue is my auger motor seems to clunk every few mins. Looking at the back of the stove the auger motor will rise up every few rotations up the auger then "drop" back down onto the plate beneath it making a loud clunk noise. Any help would be much appreciated!

Mj

 

[Lake Girl]

Sorry no one got back to you but welcome to the forum ! What heat setting do you have the stove on? Have you cleaned well around the heat exchanger?

What brand of pellets are you using? Longer pellets need to be broken smaller and this may be what you are hearing. Have you taken the auger out to make sure there is no residue hardened?

www.heatredefined.com has an owner resources section with manuals, troubleshooting guides

 

[heat seeker]

If the stove has a provision for running on a thermostat, is the Tsat calling for heat, or is a jumper required if there is no thermostat? It sounds like the stove is staying in idle mode, or is set on low heat, as mentioned above.

 

[Mjfargo]

Hey guys thanks for the responses! as a matter of fact heat seeker it was setup for a thermostat, I unhooked the wire and put a jumper back in and that solved my "cool air" issue. still having the auger motor issue though. lake girl, I took the auger out and tightened the heck outta the set screw in the collar that holds the motor on, cause it was literally falling off the stove after clunking so many times throughout the day/night. still clunking hasn't fallen off again yet though, I will take the auger back out n check for any build up in there, thanks!

 

[Mjfargo]

Oh and I'm mostly running new England brand pellets by the way.

 

[Lake Girl]

May need to replace auger bearing.

 

[DrewBoogie]

the tip of the augur that is basically in the burn pot can get carbon deposits on it. Mine has clunked and also squealed as if a cat was stuck in closet. I have gently chiseled off any carbon when cleaning the stove. The carbon can be on the end of tube too, not just the auger.

You'll find that some pellets will leave carbon and some won't leave much at all. In that stove, i have the same one, higher end, super low ash pellets will make your life much easier. I used to clean out all the ash in the stove twice a week when running Green Supremes. Now that i've run Blazers and Spruce Points in it, I can run my stove without shutting down or cleaning for at least 10 days, just an occasional scrape of the burn pot.

Read up on that stove here. It's a solid little stove, cheap money, and not fancy, but will heat your house just fine. It will take a while to heat up a house from the low 60's into the 70's. It will keep it warm once it's warm no problem. I will use my oil heat to get the house up to temp after we've been away for a weekend when the stove wasn't running.

 

[DrewBoogie]

and which auger are you talking about? if it's the top auger, empty all the pellets out of the hopper and give it a good vacuuming. As stated, longer pellets can stop the auger all together if it doesn't break them. You may also want to open up the plate in the bottom of the auger to make it easier for the longer pellets to get to the auger.

 

[BUBIBEAR]

Before you adjust the plate at the bottom of the hopper , remove it ,being careful not to drop the screw into the top auger . Lift the plate out and check the transition section between the upper and lower augers for obstructions ,or fines and clean. Replace plate and allowing enough space for the longer pellets to pass . Also the plate that the auger motors sit on should have some type of covering on the surface between it and auger .Englander sells a foam ring for this. But I found that a piece of flat gasket with two way tape to hold it in place dose the same job .The reason for this is that when the auger binds on a long pellet it pulls up and when it cuts the pellet it drops down .Doing this enough times will cause the case of the auger to flatten or wear out and the gear oil will leak out . I am sharing this from my experience .Do both auger shelves . Hope this helps you .

 

[scotthershall]

Definitely good suggestions above. I came home to a cold stove one day and found the bottom auger wouldn't turn due to carbon build up. Now I chip it away every two weeks or so with a screw driver. Wear eye protection - those chunks of carbon go flying!

If you haven't already, and your stove isn't brand new, you might also hit those auger bearings with some grease. Mine has zerks and I think the PDVC does too. I used SuperTech Multi-Duty Complex grease from Walmart. Supposedly good for hi-temps.

Also, my stove has 1" wide gasket material on the auger shelves from the factory. Seems to keep them quiet. Any wood stove store should be able to sell you a small quantity of this stuff. Big box stores carry it too but you'll probably end up with a lot more than you need!

The stove shouldn't have a problem working with a thermostat so long as it's "millivolt" compatible. THere are plenty of them out there ranging from $10 manual ones to $150 wifi ones. When the thermostat isn't calling for heat (when it's reached it's set temp or is turned off) the stove will run on heat range 1, and when it is calling for heat it will run on whatever heat range you've selected on the control board. Even though the stove can't turn itself on and off like other, more expensive stoves can, cycling between "low fire" and "high fire" can certainly save you pellets when you're not at home or at night when everyone is asleep. I set mine back 4 degrees at night and 6 during the day.