30-nc air wash

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realstihl

Minister of Fire
Hearth Supporter
Dec 4, 2007
525
eastern kansas
I've been using the 30-nc off and on for a couple months now and have been getting a sooted up glass. Here's a few things I've noticed. The handle on mine is further down when the door is closed than most I've seen in pictures and videos. If the door is closed tight the handle side is closer to the stove body than the hinge side. Here's the problem: The further the door closes the less clearance there is between the air wash plate and glass retainer. In my case it is close to touching. It's really hard to see it. It is an oem gasket so I know that it's the right one. My fix at this point is to slightly bunch the new door gasket so there will be some clearance. I don't know what the clearance is but it shouldn't be touching. Hope it works!!!
 
2 things come to mind. One is that the collar stop on the door latch got installed a bit off This would only affect handle position when closed. Second is that when the gasket was installed it was pulled tight instead of just placed in the channel ,actually should be compressed linerally when installed which would make it a bit larger in diameter.
Sooted up glass- if it is black soot either your wood is wet or you simply are not burning a hot enough fire -a light film forming on the glass is somewhat normal even when cranking at 600-700 degees stove top mag. thermometer placed on small step centered. 90 % of all bitches about stoves centers on the fuel used. The 30 shines when fed fuel with an internal moisture content of around 15%, any thing over 20% will leave you complaining - goes for almost all stoves. If you are buying wood believing it is dry because the sellers said so - I have a few bridges I like to sell you real cheap..
At this time of year due to temps flue draw gets a bit weak at times so a small very hot fire is my recommendation not stuffing full and pushing the air control a long ways in, also note you want the fuel to be going really well ( looks like a blast furnace in there) before adjusting the air control.
 
I don't believe the air wash on the 30 works as well as on other stoves.

I've read that the doghouse air hits the wood and bounces back. I can't verify this as I do not want to remove the doghouse. Others have done so and reported back good results.

My wood is dry and burns well in my century without hazing up my glass.
 
30 - air wash top down. Any stove with a block of wood in front of an air feed is going to have a diffusion of that particular feed.
When I put a full load in the 30 I always try to create a small tunnel to the back of the stove for the dog house supply- the secondary air feed runs up the center at the back of the firebox ( the area where there is no brick) so with a small tunnel it creates a bit of a blast furnace effect directed at that area preheating the secondary air more efficiently. works for me. Never seen a wood stove yet that doesn't acquire some sort of haze on the glass
 
Thanks Blades. I just replaced the door gasket and did as you described. I bunched the gasket up quite a bit and now have clearance between door and air wash plate. The door handle is around the 3 o'clock position and very tight. Just need to let the silicone dry now. If you look up through the glass with door closed you can see the clearance. I'm really impressed with the this thing burns. Hopefully the glass will stay cleaner.
 
That NC-30 is a nice stove, after I do my addition to the house I will need a second stove and I am seriously considering it as part of the line up, my friend has one and its been great to him.
 
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