30-NC door gasket problem

[jminacci]

Hi Everyone,

I have a bit of a problem. I was like a little kid waiting in anticipation today for my 6" legs, baffle boards, and door gasket kit from Englander today. I ordered the gasket kit for my currently installed 30 because after finally doing the dollar bill test on both it and and my newly acquired 30, I realized the how easily the bill slipped out of my current operating stove. Anyway, after pulling off the gasket and laboring away at removing all traces of the old gasket cement I replaced the gasket and taped it into place for a test fit. There is no difference. In fact, the handle settles into the same 4:30 or 5 o'clock position. The tension required to pull the dollar bill through is the same. What gives? I was sure that it would be much tighter. It's mild today in south central pa, but is supposed to cool down this week and I would like to get this baby back on line. I would greatly appreciate any suggestions or insight you may have.

Thanks,

Jason

 

[Hogwildz]

Did you get the replacement from Englander?
The rope gasket is made in two styles. The dense stuff, and the soft stuff.
The dense stuff is packed and wound tight, does not squeeze or flatten as much or as easily. Usually has a carbon coating on it.
The non dense soft stuff is more fluffy, and compacts much more when squeezed.
Brother Bart can elaborate more on that. Are you sure you got the right size? And did you get the round rope gasket, or the semi flat stuff?

 

[jminacci]

I've read about the different types of gaskets. I decided since I was ordering other stuff from Englander that I'd get the gaskets from them as well. So, whatever they sent is what I've got. It's the round kind.

 

[BrotherBart]

The sealer in the groove is gonna take up some space. That should tighten it up. If it doesn't get on the phone to ESW.

 

[wkpoor]

I had a similar problem with my Magnolia and found a gasket dense enough to make a seal at a stove that sold generic rope seals for stoves. Took me 3 tries to get it right. After you get it back on line check to see if it still seals when the stove is hot. If the gasket you are replacing looks in good shape just that it needed to seal better, chances are you have another problem and a seal replacement is just a bandade fix.

 

[jminacci]

I tried switching out the door from my other 30, but that didn't work. Was hoping for a fire tonight. Can I just fill the channel full of the rtv silicone rubber high temp gasket maker that Englander sent me? I'm kind of wishing that I hadn't messed with it but now I just want to make it right.

 

[Hogwildz]

I tried switching out the door from my other 30, but that didn't work. Was hoping for a fire tonight. Can I just fill the channel full of the rtv silicone rubber high temp gasket maker that Englander sent me? I'm kind of wishing that I hadn't messed with it but now I just want to make it right.

The silicone must go under the gasket. Any silicone under it will not burn. Any silicone that is directly exposed to the firebox will burn off.
I think BB was meaning that the silicone under the gasket will most likely give the added thickness to help the gasket mate to the stove.

 

[SlyFerret]

Did you make any progress on this Jason? Any tips?

The gasket on the door of my 30 is leaking along the bottom a little bit, so it looks like I need to replace mine soon.

-SF

 

[jminacci]

No noticeable difference. I'm thinking that it may have something to do with the door latch and where it catches on the inside of the stove. I think that I read about someone bending theirs, but man, it makes me really nervous to do so. I tried slipping a 1/2 inch copper coupling(may need to try 3/8) and it did need seem to make it tighter. I'm not sure though how the copper would hold up to the heat.