3rd season with NC30

[Gibraltar IV]

Hey guys- this is a great forum that has been a lot of help to me. I usually get all my questions answered by reading old threads, but I want opinions on this one...
My stove works fine. I have learned about using dry wood, chimney cleaning, burn temps, split size, and all that. The one problem I have is: even with my minimum length chimney (15ft), my stove top temp usually reaches 700 in cold weather even when I have the air closed all the way. I sometimes have to block the unregulated intake holes with magnets and turn on the fan to keep it at or below 750. Because of this, I have *never* fully loaded the stove with wood (up to the top of the firebricks). I want to be able to maximize burn time with a full load, but I’m afraid to do it. I load North/South some but usually a cross/cross. I use mostly oak wood but I have this problem with all species. I don’t use an OAK. My glass stays pretty clean but there is always a haze. I don’t think I have a gasket leak but I wonder sometimes about the window gasket. I am careful to close down the air as soon as possible in the cycle. I have no damper. Do you guys think I will still be able to prevent overfire with full load?

 

[begreen]

700º stove top is not dangerous for the 30-NC, but going by flue gas temps is a better way to regulate the stove. Criss-cross loading is part of your problem. That is allowing too much air space between the splits. Packing the stove to the top of the fire bricks should not be an issue, especially if tightly packed. Reducing air space between the splits, loading thicker splits and shutting down the air sooner will all help regulate the stove temp and lengthen the burn times.

 

[Gibraltar IV]

Ok thank you! I use a Selkirk DSP connector. I hate to drill into it but I will if it gives me better information. Can you recommend a probe thermometer, how high should I install it, and what temp should I consider the optimal/max?

 

[begreen]

A probe thermometer will prove to be very helpful. It wouldn't surprise me if you have been operating with very high flue temps. That's stressful on the pipe and chimney. With a flue thermometer you will be able to more accurately gauge when it is the appropriate time to start closing down the air. You'll want to keep the flue temp under about 800F. Don't be surprised if this is with only a 250-300F stove top temp with a cold start.
Condar makes a good probe thermometer. Place it around 18-24" above the stove top. Follow the directions for installation exactly and it will be fine on the DSP pipe.
http://www.condar.com/Probe_Thermometers.html

 

[Seasoned Oak]

700º stove top is not dangerous for the 30-NC, but going by flue gas temps is a better way to regulate the stove.

Thats good to know cuz my 30 gets there on a regular basis. The manual for the 30 does not have any max temp recommendation like their newer Summers heat models which states not to go over 600. Whenever i notice it going into the 700s i start cranking up the fans and cutting back more air to tame it down a bit.

 

[Tar12]

Ok thank you! I use a Selkirk DSP connector. I hate to drill into it but I will if it gives me better information. Can you recommend a probe thermometer, how high should I install it, and what temp should I consider the optimal/max?

I run Selkirk as well and did not hesitate to drill it...begreen is steering you straight....I run the Condar as well and wouldnt be with out it!

 

[begreen]

Thats good to know cuz my 30 gets there on a regular basis. The manual for the 30 does not have any max temp recommendation like their newer Summers heat models which states not to go over 600. Whenever i notice it going into the 700s i start cranking up the fans and cutting back more air to tame it down a bit.

Every stove I've owned would willingly go up to 700+º including our old pre EPA 602 which has been up to 800º several times. I can understand a 600º limit for a soapstone stove, but not for a steel or castiron stove.

 

[MAD MARK]

Replying to a Year and half old thread..

I'm in.

 

[Seasoned Oak]

Every stove I've owned would willingly go up to 700+º including our old pre EPA 602 which has been up to 800º several times. I can understand a 600º limit for a soapstone stove, but not for a steel or castiron stove.

That may be an abundance of caution being all the warped doors and stove bodies they are dealing with. Very hard to keep my SH 50 under 600 with all the air leaks.

 

[snaple4]

I run into the same thing on my Summers Heat 50. Even with my high MC wood (since I ran out of my good stuff) it will take off like a rocket if I don’t watch it. Turning down as early as I can without putting out fire, using larger splits, and just keeping an eye on it. I have had my STT up past 600 but haven’t gone to 700 yet. Got to 800 on probe but haven’t passed it. I should be hooking outside air up this coming week to see if it becomes more controllable (per manufacturer recommendation)

How did this 2018 thread get revived anyways?

 

[FTG-05]

I don't know but I'm glad it did. Thanks Begreen for the temp probe recommendation; got one on order! Thanks!

 

[Woody Stover]

Replying to a Year and half old thread..I'm in.

"History repeats itself," "What's old is new again" and all that jazz.
The T5 goes to 700 but I don't like it to go over. I can fling open the trivet tops to cool 'er off about 50 degrees, and I'm going to get the blower for it as well.

I can understand a 600º limit for a soapstone stove,

AFAIK, Woodstock says 700. I've only had 'em to 600 a couple times, 550 is a common occurrence. That's just over the cat; Temps drop off as you move away to the sides or front.

 

[Sawset]

Standard operating stovetop temps here for the Oslo are 4-600f. Above that, manual says don't let it glow red. Searching back, there are comments of 800f stove top and glowing. Max I've had is about 725, so haven't had a chance to test that.

 

[Woody Stover]

Standard operating stovetop temps here for the Oslo are 4-600f. Above that, manual says don't let it glow red. Searching back, there are comments of 800f stove top and glowing. Max I've had is about 725, so haven't had a chance to test that.

Maybe their thermo read low..iron glows at 900 I believe.