Hi guy's, Could somebody please tell me how important it is to use sealant on the joints of this 4" pellet stove pipe. I picked up a knew harman xxv model and i am planning to hook this stove up in the morning. Thanks for the advice.
4" pellet stove pipe
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I dont see the need to seal every joint if you use Duravent with the twist lock and put 3 screw in every joint.
We only RTV the Connection to the stove and the slip connection.
<snip from Dura vent instructions>(broken link removed to http://www.duravent.com/docs/instruct/L502_aug05.pdf)
8. Sections of pipe are connected to each other by pushing them firmly together and
twisting. Screws are not required. If however, screws are desired, use 1/4"-long
sheet metal screws. Under no circumstances, penetrate the inner liner with screws.
9. RTV Sealant may be required at all vent joints. Refer to Appliance manufacturer.
</end of snip>
We only RTV the Connection to the stove and the slip connection.
<snip from Dura vent instructions>(broken link removed to http://www.duravent.com/docs/instruct/L502_aug05.pdf)
8. Sections of pipe are connected to each other by pushing them firmly together and
twisting. Screws are not required. If however, screws are desired, use 1/4"-long
sheet metal screws. Under no circumstances, penetrate the inner liner with screws.
9. RTV Sealant may be required at all vent joints. Refer to Appliance manufacturer.
</end of snip>
I feel thats it is important to seal the joints, what i have observed is ash leaking around the seams in the pipe in the show room. this would not happen if i sealed them up. Also, in a direct rear vent installation, smoke will leak from any joint that is not sealed. If the pipe spec says check the manufactures spec, then check the manufacturs spec, my manufacture specs out sealing the joints. Just a question, why would you not seal it? the only reason is that its hard to get apart. any other reason not to seal it? BTW i never rtv it to the stove, i use tape there.
Congrat's on the xxv, I too own one. You are going to love it.
I would seal pellet pipe for peace of mind even though you probably don't need to. I used the 6" stove adapter so I never had to make the decision.
12 years ago I installed my previous pellet stove using the duravent pipe (twist on type). When I sold it last year, I gave the old duravent pellet pipe to the person who bought the stove (~15' of it). Before he took it, we tried with all our might to break the joints, but no luck at all. Probably because I used the sealant quite liberally, I never thought about the time when I would have to take it apart. The only way I could pull it out was to twist hard enought to break one of the adustable elbows. The person who bought my old stove took the straight sections thinking that he might be able to salvage them by using tin snips to cut the elbows out.
I would seal pellet pipe for peace of mind even though you probably don't need to. I used the 6" stove adapter so I never had to make the decision.
12 years ago I installed my previous pellet stove using the duravent pipe (twist on type). When I sold it last year, I gave the old duravent pellet pipe to the person who bought the stove (~15' of it). Before he took it, we tried with all our might to break the joints, but no luck at all. Probably because I used the sealant quite liberally, I never thought about the time when I would have to take it apart. The only way I could pull it out was to twist hard enought to break one of the adustable elbows. The person who bought my old stove took the straight sections thinking that he might be able to salvage them by using tin snips to cut the elbows out.
MountainStoveGuy said:
A agree with seal if you have to but in over 900 pellet stoves that I have personaly installed I dont see many Streight lengths that leak soot unless there is a problem with venting the leaks are at sometimes the T, elbos and slips.
I dont have a problem with Leaks in Direct vent installs because I will not install a pellet stove Direct vent.
It is next to imposible to Take Duravent pipe apart after RTV.
hearthtools said:
Aren't all pellet stoves direct vent? Or do some of them 'draft' like wood stoves?
Steve
No, direct vent in this conversation is described as going strait out the back of tha appliance with no rise. What Rod is saying, and i complety agree with, is that when you go verticle there is no need to RTV the pipe, there is enough natural draw in that installation that ash will not work its way out the seams. Ash will work its way out the seams in a horzontal install because there is enough backpressure. Unfortunalty most people install them strait out the back, they work that way, but as stated earlier, you have to seal the pipe, and you have to live with a smokey house during poweroutage. The next best thing would be to go up severl feet then out, in that install i would still seal the pipe, but in a power outage your stove will not belch smoke everwhere. The only install that i would not seal the pipe is a complete verticle install.
Steve said:
Yes you can Direct vent straight out with no vertical rise but like the very wise MtStove guy said above is that you WILL get smoke into the house. But what he did not say was your WILL get Smoke and soot on the Side of the house and ground if you direct vent a pellet stove.
Most all pellet stove manufactures show in the manual direct vent installations. But most also say recommended to have at least 5 feet of vertical rise in vent run to prevent smoke spillage in the home during power outage.
why not to direct vent
http://www.hearthtools.com/install/DONOTDIRCTVENT.jpg
Problem fix
http://www.hearthtools.com/install/nodirectvent2.jpg
ok- putting RTV on the joints will most likely ensure you wont get them undone....ever again.....but they will be sealed. We use high temperature silicone tape to tape our joints...all of them. Its removeable, reuseable, and doesnt fall off like that foil tape I sometimes see. I see no good reason not to seal all the joints....the silicone tape is fairly cheap, and could ensure less callbacks. As a correlary, we ALWAYS RTV the first section to the stove.
HarryBack said:
what kind of tape is that.
do you have a link to info and where you get it.
I dont like foil back tape because it never sticks to SS
Btw
Long time no Forum with eachother.
its a black silicone tape, roughly 3/4" wide.....ill get the TrueValue number at work tomorrow....this same number should be good at all trueValue hardare stores even in your local area.
nice to see ya around and about, Rod!
nice to see ya around and about, Rod!
What is its temp rating? I havent heard of this stuff, it sounds like the right tool for the job.
Also, do you use the simpson pipe adapter? And if so, why do you RTV it instead of taping it? I know the foil tape doest stick the best, but a few wraps around it and its tight, then at least you can get the stove off the flue if you need too.
Also, do you use the simpson pipe adapter? And if so, why do you RTV it instead of taping it? I know the foil tape doest stick the best, but a few wraps around it and its tight, then at least you can get the stove off the flue if you need too.
Boost to this thread
I got to play with the NEW ICC pellet vent
Great looking stuff.
has a built in silicone gasket.
No twist lock
Clean joints.
Will be a litlle bit more money but will install much faster.
For all you people that like to direct vent they have a snorkle cap
I got to play with the NEW ICC pellet vent
Great looking stuff.
has a built in silicone gasket.
No twist lock
Clean joints.
Will be a litlle bit more money but will install much faster.
For all you people that like to direct vent they have a snorkle cap
it is on the websiteMetal said:
you have to click on the photo of the pellet vent the text link is wrong
(broken link removed to http://www.icc-rsf.com/en/residentialchimneys/cheminee_excelpellet.html)
I got my tape at home Depot
check out this link https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/3803/
post number #32
[quote
Aren't all pellet stoves direct vent? Or do some of them 'draft' like wood stoves?
Steve[/quote]
actually , we built a pellet stove that was not a direct vent up through about 1995. it was a 6" top vent that hooked to a woodstove chimney , used the same rules for draft that would apply for a woodstove. worked quite well. it had a low velocity fan the actually blew air into the firepot from the intake side, and natural convective draft cleared the smoke. we still get calls from people asking if we will bring it back.
Aren't all pellet stoves direct vent? Or do some of them 'draft' like wood stoves?
Steve[/quote]
actually , we built a pellet stove that was not a direct vent up through about 1995. it was a 6" top vent that hooked to a woodstove chimney , used the same rules for draft that would apply for a woodstove. worked quite well. it had a low velocity fan the actually blew air into the firepot from the intake side, and natural convective draft cleared the smoke. we still get calls from people asking if we will bring it back.
This looks like a good place to get an answer without starting a new thread.
I am (hopefully) installing my new Englander/Summers Heat 55-SHP10 tomorrow.
I am looking for the best method to attach the Dura Vent pipe adapter to the stove's exhaust pipe. The adapter fits sort of snugly over the exhaust stub.
I have read about :
RTV (may never come off),
screws (not much room on adapted sleeve and the exhaust stub looks like it needs to be pre-drilled- it's thick),
silver tape (falls off),
and silicone tape (havn't seen it but it doesn't sound to solid).
I would like it not to leak and be able to take it apart someday.
Thanks for the help.
I am (hopefully) installing my new Englander/Summers Heat 55-SHP10 tomorrow.
I am looking for the best method to attach the Dura Vent pipe adapter to the stove's exhaust pipe. The adapter fits sort of snugly over the exhaust stub.
I have read about :
RTV (may never come off),
screws (not much room on adapted sleeve and the exhaust stub looks like it needs to be pre-drilled- it's thick),
silver tape (falls off),
and silicone tape (havn't seen it but it doesn't sound to solid).
I would like it not to leak and be able to take it apart someday.
Thanks for the help.
You can use silicone caulk and still get it apart later if needed. Just don't go crazy with it. Use a small bead, just enough to seal it.
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