Help! HnG 6000TRXILP-IPI (2006 model) just Replaced green module, valve and pilot assy. Igniter works but no pilot. Seems no gas flowing to igniter. Tried waiting for air to clear , no luck. Checked wiring per diagram, all ok. Wall switch is a mystery but I don’t have a remote anyway. Valve had an electric solenoid but no longer available so I went to the knob style. No tech available in north woods. Anyone have suggestion?
6000TRXILP-IPI
- Thread starter Phx4233
- Start date
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Basic starting point is the gas tank. Is the shut off open ? Is there an intermediary shut off? Is that one open? Have you checked gas pressure at the valve?
Checked and all are good. The system worked last season and then started misbehaving earlier this summer. I tried the tap method on the valve but couldn’t get it to fire up. Is there a electronic safety feature on the pilot?
All that left is the wall switch. Its the multi-funtion style. Before I invest another 100 bucks, is there a way to troubleshoot this one?
The electronic safety feature IS the pilot. If flame is present, the flame engulfs the rectification rod & completes the circuit.
Can you post a pic of the valve you have in there?
Can you post a pic of the valve you have in there?
Thanks here you go. The valve on the left is the original. Note the solenoid is missing. The other is the replacement which has a knob. All other features are the same.
You say that the igniter is working. Does that mean that you can hear the clicking and see the spark at the pilot hood?
Is the orange wire connected to the orange block on the face of the valve? If this is not connected, the gas will not flow to the pilot.
Was the pilot assembly that you replaced the correct one with the correct orifice?
Is the orange wire connected to the orange block on the face of the valve? If this is not connected, the gas will not flow to the pilot.
Was the pilot assembly that you replaced the correct one with the correct orifice?
Hello, the valve that was replaced had a solenoid where the new valve has a knob for flame adjustment. I see the kit you mention has a solenoid but is it "required" to use for the appliance to function? I cant even get the pilot to light. A new wiring/wall switch may be next step. Thanks!
that system requires two wires to the gas valve, an orange for main valve and a green for pilot flame. Make sure you have the green wire installed on the green terminal just behind the adjustment knob.
Yes understand and it is connected. My question is on the solenoid. Can it be bypassed since new valve has a knob?
been doing some digging, as far as I can tell, you should just be able to do that. do you still have the old solenoid? try connecting the 2 solenoid wires to that without installing it onto the valve? just trying to figure it out here
Thought about that. The solenoid uses 110v but I can connect the wires together to bypass the solenoid. Any thoughts on the pilot tube connection to the valve being over tightened? I didn’t have any guidance on how tight that fitting should be.
I usually hand tighten as far as I can and then just a slight turn with the wrench. Then use leak test solution to check. If you see any bubbles, slowly tighten until the bubbles stop. In no case should you be torqueing it down. It is a fragile thin aluminum tube with a brass fitting, two very soft metals that will distort or break with only slight force.
One other thought, the black wire from the ignition module should be grounded to the cabinet. If it is loose or not connected the pilot or main valve will not energize. They are DC volt around 3v,dc and have to see the ground.
Do not connect the solenoid wires together, dead short and will destroy the control
box the wires come from.
box the wires come from.
Understand thanks. Still have great ignitor spark but no pilot light. I did notice the wall switch “flame” button appears to be non functional so looks like I will be ordering that. Everything else has been replaced. Super frustrating
Well friends. The mystery remains. I have replaced EVERYTHING in the guts of this unit and still cannot get pilot to light. New valve 2 new modules, all new wiring kit and wall switch. Followed wiring directions to the letter. Great ignitor spark but no propane flow thru the valve. Pulled the propane supply line to check if gas is there, yep. I can hear a relay open and close when the wall switch is turned on but I presume this is for the flame control. Any thoughts on this ?? Winter is on the way ugh 😞. Just so frustrating.
"Hi Lennox65, yes, I can see/hear the igniter spark. The orange wire and the green wire are correctly placed on the valve and both have current to them. The pilot assy is the correct replacement however, on the pilot tube to the valve I may have overtightened the fitting based on videos i have researched. I am not sure how tight that fitting should be? The VALVE I replaced came with an flame adjustment knob where the original valve had a high current solenoid."
If you have spark at the pilot hood and voltage at the orange pilot wire, then it should be lighting.
Is the black ground wire connected properly?
Have you bled the gas line?
Hello, I have not bled the gas line per se. I did open the supply line to ensure flow only. Do you have a recommendation on procedure? The grounding is to the black frame of the fireplace insert which is as far as the wire can reach without modifying. Perhaps not a good ground bond?
I would bleed it right after the shut off, before it goes into the valve. As long as the ground connection is tight, it should be fine.
Mystery SOLVED!! Many thanks to all who helped me troubleshoot this issue which has been my bane since summer. The issue was a damaged pilot (orange) wire and ground wire that were both inside the protective sheath. Out of sheer frustration I cut the sheath back and saw the damage. After repair..success! Thank you Daksy,, Lennox65 and SumDumTek for your responses and your time!
