6039 Auger Motor removal/replacement

[Roko]

New member here. I have an American Harvest 6039 stove in my man cave in the barn that has quit working. The auger motor get power (can hear it try to start) but the shaft will not turn the auger. Cleaned all pellets, disconnected the power and used the lamp cord test to try to fire it up. Same thing, can hear it try but the shaft will not turn. OK now for the question: I assume I need to replace the motor but I can't figure out how to get the old one out. I've look online to no avail for a video or instructions. All I find are related to the 6041 and the older unit is not the same. Any direction on this would be most appreciated.
Secondly, when I look for the replacement the new units do not look the same as the one I'm replacing. Mine has a little fan on the end of the motor and the new ones do not. Also the old one has two male vertical electric connectors/spades that the attach to the wiring harness. The new ones have female connectors, except the one USSC sells. Even this one does not have the fan.
Last, can you suggest a good place to get replacement glass and ceramic brick fire box backer?
Thanks so much.
Roko

 

[FirepotPete]

New member here. I have an American Harvest 6039 stove in my man cave in the barn that has quit working. The auger motor get power (can hear it try to start) but the shaft will not turn the auger. Cleaned all pellets, disconnected the power and used the lamp cord test to try to fire it up. Same thing, can hear it try but the shaft will not turn. OK now for the question: I assume I need to replace the motor but I can't figure out how to get the old one out. I've look online to no avail for a video or instructions. All I find are related to the 6041 and the older unit is not the same. Any direction on this would be most appreciated.
Secondly, when I look for the replacement the new units do not look the same as the one I'm replacing. Mine has a little fan on the end of the motor and the new ones do not. Also the old one has two male vertical electric connectors/spades that the attach to the wiring harness. The new ones have female connectors, except the one USSC sells. Even this one does not have the fan.
Last, can you suggest a good place to get replacement glass and ceramic brick fire box backer?
Thanks so much.
Roko

I’m betting your gearbox is shot. Between the 6039 and 6041 that motor is just about the one thing that won’t match.

I have a new replacement motor for mine in case of it going bad and yes it doesn’t have that other little fan on it.

Off the top of my head there is a company near Shawano, Wi, Dearco Mfg, great price on the glass, way under what others charge.

The fire brick. You can make your own from castable refractory cement. It has to be the “castable” not just refractory cement. Use your old board for dimensions, make a mold from it and pour in the cement. Allow to dry for a few days and then cure it in an oven set very low for a few hours to make sure there is no moisture left in it or it will explode in the stove.

I don’t know how much shipping would be but I have a mold and the cement and could make one but they are much heavier than the originals. The one I made is now on year 10, and I don’t see any signs of it giving up the ghost anytime soon.

 

[Roko]

Finally got a live person at USSC yesterday. On hold for 1.5hr! Not exactly a rousing endorsement of their customer service. The tech I ended up with could not find instructions on removing the 6039 auger motor but he was able to sell me a new on that he was sure came with instructions. Hopefully he is right. I can't for the life of me see how to disconnect the motor.
Thanks FirepotPete for the feedback. I'll track down Dearco Mfg.
Go Pack (next year)

 

[ARC]

I can't for the life of me see how to disconnect the motor.

The motor and gear box come off as one unit. Unplug stove. Empty hopper. Move Auger forward slightly. Remove right and left side panels on stove. Unplug both spaded wires from auger motor. There are 4 screws holding the motor/gearbox on to the stove two on right two on left. The screws go from the firebox side of the stove to the back of the stove they are a pain to get to. Size 5/16 there is no room to work a full size wrench, I ended up cutting a wench in half and still could only do 1/4 turn at a time. If you have a shorty set of wrenches you might be able to use those. After you get the gear box off you will have to remove the auger coupling shaft from the gearbox shaft. Some models us a allen screw and some use a
tension/roll pin that you tap out with a hammer and punch

.

 

[ARC]

ceramic brick fire box backer

Bought castable refractory cement at ACE hardware, let it dry for two days then cured it in my barbecue grill as it does smell a little when curing.

 

[Roko]

ARC, finally got it done. I thought I had it figured out but for the life of me I don't know why USSC didn't design the bolts to go from the back side. GRRRRR. I tried a multitude of wrenches and finally found a geared closed end that did the trick. Thanks so much for the help. I like the idea of making my own firebox backer. Good idea. BTW had to wait 1.5hrs on hold with USSC to order the new motor. Man the comments about their customer service are soooo true.