USSC 6039/6041 internal cleaning

[FirepotPete]

I've seen some people asking questions about cleaning these stoves and the links to USSC video for cleaning. While the video give you some basics I think it wise to take an extra step or two. Here's a pic of my 6039, with the agitator, firepot and fake firebrick removed.


A. Those are slots that go behind the wall of the stove. A wire or better yet a small but long bottle brush will get a lot of junk out if you clean that area. That area that you can get to from the slots run all the way from top to bottom of the stove.

B.. Those are the 1 1/2" knockout plugs. Those should be in place behind the fake firebrick. If not go buy some and put them in when the stove is running. Pull them out while cleaning and you will be able to get around the back of the stove. I use a good stiff, large bottle brush and a semi-stiff piece of wire. I use the wire to reach down and around E, the fresh air intake pipe. A lot of stuff will build up around that pipe, you will have to try and scrap it to either of the D vertical clean outs. Ash will also build up on top of C the fuel auger tube, you can knock it down with either a brush or the wire.

C. Fuel auger tube.

D. Ash clean outs. Remove those covers and you will be able to vacuum out any ash that falls from cleaning behind that wall from brushing.

E. Fresh Air Pipe.

And then the two heat exchangers. A small bottle brush and wire will get a lot of ash from behind those and the side walls of the stove.

Here's an attachment that can be enlarged to see better.

 

[Rem30-06]

I have a Northstar CS550 corn stove and looks about the same as your stove their. I had inherited the stove when we bought the house this past fall and I see that you have plugs in those holes to the right and left of the auger. Was wondering if I need to go get a couple knock out plugs like you suggest and also why do they need to be closed up while the stove is running?

 

[FirepotPete]

I have a Northstar CS550 corn stove and looks about the same as your stove their. I had inherited the stove when we bought the house this past fall and I see that you have plugs in those holes to the right and left of the auger. Was wondering if I need to go get a couple knock out plugs like you suggest and also why do they need to be closed up while the stove is running?

If your stove is somewhat the same, the thinking goes that on my stove it has two heat exchangers on the left and right of the stove, then another chamber on the top that acts as an exchanger. The thinking is that with the fake firebrick on that wall that the negative draft would pull it against the two holes and seal it up, causing the flame/heat to circulate around and up instead of through the back directly out the exhaust.

Many found years ago that the firebrick would warp, or it just didn't sit flat enough against the wall to seal those holes, so the knockout plugs where added to force the air around. I took notes on running with and without them years ago, can't find them now but I remember it was quite a difference in my stove. They are cheap enough to try.

 

[Jerry123]

I see on my stove,a 6041, there is a plug in the hole at E. Should I remove it? I have the FAK installed to the outside of the house to the "thimble" at the back of the stove and the short hose from the "thimble" to the round pipe below the chain on the drive inside the cabinet. I talked to USSC to a person who I didn't feel comfortable with her knowledge say drill holes in the cap. Is this an option?
Also I don't have plugs in the holes at B. So its worth a try?
Thanks for any help!
Jerry

 

[FirepotPete]

I see on my stove,a 6041, there is a plug in the hole at E. Should I remove it? I have the FAK installed to the outside of the house to the "thimble" at the back of the stove and the short hose from the "thimble" to the round pipe below the chain on the drive inside the cabinet. I talked to USSC to a person who I didn't feel comfortable with her knowledge say drill holes in the cap. Is this an option?
Also I don't have plugs in the holes at B. So its worth a try?
Thanks for any help!
Jerry

Hi, yes that plug behind the firepot area (E) needs to either be removed or drill holes in it or you are not getting any air from your FAK. I don't remember exactly the size of the holes but I think they say several 3/8". I have that plug totally removed from mine, but I also have a ball valve inline of the FAK and have the draft fan tweaked to burn corn, I played with it for quite awhile to get it where I liked it. I believe that plug is just a frost plug for auto blocks and is available to purchase so if you do drill it and think it is drilled out to much you can replace it.
Yes plug the B holes, 1 1/2" electrical knockout plugs. Remove them when cleaning, replace when burning.

 

[Jerry123]

Thanks a lot for the help! I will try to reply back and let you know how it's going!

 

[mustangwagz]

You Need to Link this to your signature Pete..