Hello all, read alot of good info on this forum but can't find what I'm looking for this time. The beginning of last winter I bout a USSC 6039, it's about 10 years old but ran great once I got the air/fuel mixture right. Well this year I bout a Bixby 115 for 450$ for my house and moved the 6039 to the garage. Well this year I fired up the 6039 before bed to keep it warm in the garage for the dogs, when I woke up in the morning the light was blinking above the "B" light (I have the old board with only abc) so I ordered the high temp snap disk and installed that, fired it back up and came back a few hours later and the"b" was flashing again so I got on here and found a guy had the same problem last year and put a new convection blower and it fixed it for him so I ordered on and it shut down again and the "b" still was blinking. At this point I had no idea where to go so I put a new auger motor in it and that didn't do anything either. Well now it keeps popping the fuse on the control board and when I replace the fuse and hit the "on" button the flashing "b" is the first thing that come back, I have to press "on" again to actually get the stove to turn on. I am unsure where to go at this point. I did a quick run down of wires thinking I pinched a wire but found nothing.. I plan on doing a thorough wire inspection tomorrow but want others opinions or advice on what I should try next. Thanks in advance and sorry for writing a novel.
6039 Issues
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I have the 4 button board on mine but from what I see on the owners manual for the ABC board it looks like you covered the error code "hi temp" snap disk. After everything else you did I'm thinking the board itself is bad.
You did move the stove, after years of heat and cooling the boards themselves can get bridle and I'm thinking that moving it into another environment may, and I say MAY, have caused the board either stress from the physical move or the difference in temp and humidity and fail.
As far as the fuse blowing, if you cover that none of the wires are pinched then I would look at the wires and make sure they are connected by the correct polarity. You don't say if the fuse blew right away or takes a while. If it blew right away, within seconds of turning the stove on it could be a polarity issue, depending on the motor manufacture, but most likely a short somewhere. If you turn it on and takes a while to blow then it might be a short causing it. Where the fault is can be hard to track down. Sometimes you can see where a spark on either the wire or near the wire on metal has cause a discolored area. If you catch it quick enough you can even smell the short, that electrical/plastic/rubber burnt smell.
Don't apologize for writing a novel, the more information you give will get you an answer without everyone else having to ask more questions.
One option if the board is shot is to get the 4 button board. It will give you a lot more functions with the stove and you already have spare motors backup if needed.
Let us know what you find, it helps us all figure things out.
Thanks for the reply, it would make sense that the control board would get brittle and warn out. It takes some time before the fuse does blow, not a set amount of time though. Sometimes 30 minutes, sometimes several hours. I did look at a new control board but the 500+ and I don't want to spend that and it not fix the issue.
http://www.eastcoasthearth.com/coll...rd-panel-us-stove-6039-80507-american-harvest
Try that link, better price for the board.
Well traced down all the wires and found nothing broke, burnt or frayed. I ordered a new control board so we'll see if that fixes it. Thanks for your help.
Before you put the new board in, if you have or can get a multi-meter you should probably do a continuity test across the wires to the motors, that might find a short that isn't visible and would assure that it doesn't mess up the new board.
It's not the motors I'd be worried about it's the wires. To test them if you have a meter that has a setting to check resistance set it on that. The meter will probably show the ohm symbol, an upside down capital U, that's the setting you want. Touch the probes together and you will see that the resistance being measured goes away because there is little to no resistance with the probes together. Some meters will have a audible sound that will chirp for you that lets you know there is no resistance.
So to test your wires going to the motors, take the wires off the motors. Take one wire at a time, place a probe on the wire and then the other probe to a good ground on the stove itself. If the meter shows infinite resistance or no chirp that wire is good, if it shows little or no resistance or chirps then there is a short somewhere on that wire. Replace the entire wire and test again. And don't stop if you find one wire bad you might have more than one especially on an older stove, stuff gets bridle from time and heat.
Make sure you take the power off the stove before doing this!!
Alright so I ohmd all the wires and the highest amount of resistance was 0.3 and that was to the exhaust blower. Everything else was .0-0.1... is that good? It hasn't blown the fuse on the control board in 2 days now but it still shuts down after running for awhile with the flashing "B". Thanks
Well, no that's not what I would have wanted to see, but, I overlooked that you still have the wires connected to the board? If the other end of the wires are on the board then what you are seeing is probably correct. I was hoping to be able to find a short on a wire that you couldn't see somewhere. If the wires are still connected to the board or touching the body of the stove then you will get the low resistance reading that you have.
When you go to switch out the boards, with the wires disconnected do the test again, you should see infinite resistance, the meter may show the infinite sign, it looks like a sideways 8, or the meter will show 0.L or 0.0. Infinite resistance will be on the meter when you turn it on without touching the probes together, if not sure touch them together to see it change state to reading resistance, you can also just hold each probe in your hands and that will show the resistance through your body to give you an idea as to how it will change what the reading looks like.
Make sure you discharge static from your body and the stove before handling that new board or it could render it useless! If you don't have a wrist grounding strap you can just take a piece of wire, bared on the ends, wrap it around your wrist and then connect to the stove somewhere it will get a good ground to discharge static while working on switching out the boards.
When I just tested the wires I had the main harness that connects to the board unhooked and put 1 lead from the multimeter on the end that connects to the board and the other lead to the end where it would plug into the motor for the fan/agitator, etc. And the reading were all .0 to .2 except for the one wire was a .3
That's all good then, I didn't see the 0.0. Some meters will show something just by touching one probe, it's within tolerance to be expected. As long as it's at 1000's that's good.
Alright thanks again for the help, the new control board is projected to be here Monday so I'll check back once I get that installed and see if it fixes it. I'll be sure to make a grounding strap to, I would have never thought about that.
Well I installed the new control board last Friday and it has been running good ever since. Thanks for all the help.
Bioburner
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Good to hear! Now you get to play a little with the new board, a lot more options to get it tweaked in real good!
Couple of weeks ago in the northwoods of WI they were fishing on new ice, saw some very nice 'eyes taken. I lived most of my life up on the UP boarder, sure miss the fishing up dat way.
Happy and safe fishing! Oh and stay warm.
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