finally registered! overwhelming site! i have a owb that runs to the 250ft. coils in my 612gal storage,then to my flat plate heat exchanger and back to my outdoor boiler. my problem. my outdoor boiler will drop 20 degrees to cycle back on but the buffer tank only shows a 5 degree drop. wondering how i can draw the buffer water down to match my owb drop.011 taco pump on the boiler.65 ft. of one inch pex to house. is the pump too large to allow enough heat transfere from my buffer to berm my outside boiler?water moving too fast? owb holds 150 gallons. i will later tie the tank to my house side heat. i'm sure i will see more of a benefit. house has radiant heat. any input would be great! already see that there are some talented people on here. great site! thanks
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Welcome to the forum XC. I'm not quite clear on your setup, it might help us if you posted a plumbing diagram of some sort - the old picture worth a thousand words deal... However if I understand your problem you are bothered that your buffer tank doesn't go up as much as your owb temp drops... The two things I can think of are possibly it is just because of the relative size of the two vessels, however I think the big thing I would look at is how well insulated the lines between the OWB and the tank are. We see a considerable number of problems where people lose a lot of heat to the ground due to insulation failures - some actually put more heat in the ground than they do in their homes....
Hopefully others may have additional suggestions.
Gooserider
Hopefully others may have additional suggestions.
Gooserider
thanks for the reply gooserider. i do have logstor pipe in the ground,no temp drop to speak of. my owb supply comes into my house and goes thru my two 120ft. heat exchanger coils in my buffer tank,then out to my flat plate heat exchanger. which then goes back to my owb. what i'm trying to figure is how i can pull more heat off the buffer tank so my wood boiler water holds it's heat longer. i think maybe the water is going too fast thru the buffer tank. stove will lose 20 degrees then come back on where the buffer drops 3-5 degrees. maybe i'm trying to do something that physics just won't allow. did allow me to go from twice a day burns to once a day.thanks for trying to help. lots of good info here!
Is it all series piped? Post a drawing if you can. Probably the OWF is losing more heat, faster because it is outside?
Actually the faster you move the flow the more energy you transfer. It's not about the "lingering"time but flow rates. More flow more energy moved. Although there is a point where the energy to speed up, and the potential velocity issues start to work against you. There is always a "best" sized circulator. Which is why they come in so many sizes. The circ needs to over come the pressure loss the system provides while moving enough GPM to move that amount of heat being converted in the stove.
Some of the OWF manufacturers are in denial about that thermodynamic principle and sell a one size fits all circ. Typically the best priced circ they can find.
hr
Actually the faster you move the flow the more energy you transfer. It's not about the "lingering"time but flow rates. More flow more energy moved. Although there is a point where the energy to speed up, and the potential velocity issues start to work against you. There is always a "best" sized circulator. Which is why they come in so many sizes. The circ needs to over come the pressure loss the system provides while moving enough GPM to move that amount of heat being converted in the stove.
Some of the OWF manufacturers are in denial about that thermodynamic principle and sell a one size fits all circ. Typically the best priced circ they can find.
hr
MOS,i'll have to get a drawing together. i plan on tieing the buffer to the inside boiler side like i should have in the first place. wanted to see how well i could extend the owb cycle time. i'm eyeing a gw or eko down the road. thanks for all the help,it is appreciated,charlie. [i'm learning]
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