I'm pretty sure that you can still use whatever heat distribution system you want, but it might add more complexity. Long term I want to install high efficiency radiant baseboard and panel rads heated by an air to water heat pump, that can also heat our domestic hot water. We will have to use a couple of wall or ceiling mounted cassettes in order to get the AC working.In the New England there haven’t been a lot of whole house options available. People generally like to change out like for like, especially when the house doesn’t have ducting which is pretty common here. Many people don’t like the big mini split units on their walls. Having more options where people could swap out their hydronic baseboards running on oil with a baseboard from a heat pump would be nice.
I have an oil boiler for the baseboards and am also ducted for AC. If / when my boiler goes I’ll seriously consider a heat pump that can leverage my existing ducting. But my boiler may last another 25 years so that may not be any time soon. May AC breaking down actually might be what pushes me over to be honest.
Even today efficiency is viewed as a luxury. You should have seen the look on my contractors face when I said I wanted 80 gallon hp water heater. “Why would do that when you can have two separate 40 gallon units for way cheaper” is what his face was saying. And I asked why I could not get a single 80 gallon and he said they changed the regulations without even thinking twice about why that was the new standard.
Fundamentally getting high enough temps for standard slant fin type radiators is the big sticking point. The standard home heating calculators assume 160 to 180 degree supply water. It takes a lot more baseboard to put out enough heat to heat a house on areal cold day with 100 degree water. It can be done in many rooms but in places like kitchens its tough. Seigenthaler is big fan of radiant walls and ceilings. They respond quicker than underfloor radiant or infloor radiant, supply temps can be 90 F, but it basically only good for new construction unless someone is doing a full gut. Outdoor air to water units can get up to 130F and maybe 140 F so its not a great fit for existing baseboard. The Euro low temp emitters are several hundred dollars per room. I think I was looking at between 4 and 5 K to switch my small house over. Since I heat with 3 to 4 cords a year with a minisplit for shoulder seasons, hard to justify the upgrade. For a new house in my climate I might just make that move with a small wood boiler and hope the big companies come out with air to water units as right now the selection in the US is limited. Daikin sells them offshore but not in the US last time I looked. Lot to be said for 360,000 btus of backup in a 500 gallon tank heated to 180 F with a standby wood boiler with 90 degree emitters compared to 160,000 btus for a 180F to 140F for standard radiators.In the New England there haven’t been a lot of whole house options available. People generally like to change out like for like, especially when the house doesn’t have ducting which is pretty common here. Many people don’t like the big mini split units on their walls. Having more options where people could swap out their hydronic baseboards running on oil with a baseboard from a heat pump would be nice.
They're also freezing in China, not to sound like a tin foil hat wearer here, but I'm leery of switching to all electric energy sources, I do see some benefit with efficiency, especially with some renewable resources out there, but, putting your faith in electric companies with no back up available is asking for issues....
I'll be installing my 2nd 9k btu mini split heat pump this spring, this time a LG 27.5 SEER unit. With that I intend to never use the 15 year old conventional central air unit again.
Between the two units I should have good coverage of the key living areas in our 3400 sqft house (not all areas, but between the 2 of us our occupied areas will be covered). I would also like to use them for some of our heating demand along with the wood boiler, and possibly more if I install grid tied solar PV. (Current electric rates average around .18/kwh, so not the cheapest but the solar PV should cancel that out). Both units are rated for heating down to -13f, but the LG is better at lower temps than the current Pioneer unit I already have.
I don't see many of these installed in this area (southern MN), but I can install myself.
I find that if the humidity is knocked down in the house that it takes quite a bit of outside heat to make it uncomfortable inside and the minisplit can knock the temp down quick. If on the other hand if I leave the windows open and its damp night, the dampness gets in the house and it take the mini a lot longer to get the conditions comfortable. That latent heat is bugger
One of these days it would make sense to rig up an air to air sensible heat exchanger for free cooling during cool and damp conditions. Up in the Mountains of NH its rare that nighttime temps dont get down to the sixties but frequently the air is darn close to saturated with valley fog.
A great house building idea? Every time a foundation is put in, PEX loops should be placed for a ground source heat pump around/below the foundation. Mandatory - the contractors have to dig down a few extra feet below the foundation, put in some loops, and re-cover with dirt.
Since the digging equipment is there anyways, maybe dig a few more ditches for loops. Even if the looping isn't that much (say a 2 ton system) it is still a potential low cost heat source for not much extra work/cost.
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