A lesson learned from using non-OEM style convection blower and a few questions

[KLRCris]

Hello All

First, I'd like to report on an issue I just ran into using a Dayton 1TDP5 blower in my 25 EPI Stove. I previously went thru 2 OEM blowers within 5 years. The failure was just an unbearable amount of noise from the OEM blowers. For the last 2 years, I've run the Dayton split capacitor motor without issue. Last weekend, I blew them main board fuse so I installed a new fuse and using diagnostic mode, determined the convection motor to be the cause. Upon removal, I found the issue. Apparently, I had not noticed the wires for the capacitor were close to or maybe resting on the igniter housing that protrudes from the firewall of the stove. The wires were melted and hanging on by a few wire strands!

With that said, I did order a new OEM motor (Though I personally think they suck.) The Dayton motor was so much quieter in operation. My question is this, I can repair the wires on the capacitor but can the capacitor be moved to another position on the motor? Also, has anyone run into other issues running the split capacitor motor vs the original shaded pole (Other than melted wires ) I should have checked that with a mirror evidently. The Dayton motor seemed to function just fine. Motor changed speed with board controls. I've read a few claims that they can ruin circuit boards. Not sure if that is just fake news or not. I was planning on repairing it and using a a spare if I can get the wires moved or at least protected from heat.
Let me know your thoughts.

 

[Ssyko]

The claims are true ( to a curtain degree) what the caps do is they draw large curren/amperage to charge up and the boards that were designed for shaded pole motors can’t take the amp draw and the large amount of current through the components damages them. But it should work till it doesn’t : )

 

[SidecarFlip]

'Until it don't'. I like that and then it's control board time. Exactly how a cap start motor operates. In rush amperages is usually 3 times running amperage. Stoves are designed with certain motors for a reason, reason being the electronics cannot handle the added load and a shaded pole induction repulsion motor draws the same amperage when running or locked rotor and the control board chops the frequency to control speed, not current.

As the electronics age, their capacity for overload becomes less so at some point, the board will puke.

My big 10 horse compressor in the shop pulls almost 100 amps starting and 30 running. Really spins the meter and it's on 220 /3.

 

[KLRCris]

Thanks Guys. I got a new motor from Englander and all seems good. It's back up to 70 deg. around here so no need for heat. A week ago I had 5" of snow.

 

[dubbz]

Just yesterday I ran into the same problem. I unhooked the Dayton blower from the board and run it directly from a 115 volt outlet. Not worried about change of speed since I run the blower on speed 9 all the time. I moved the start capacitor to a mount screw away from the igniter.

 

[KLRCris]

I did think about doing that if I ever went back to the dayton blower. The Dayton is so much better it seems. Runs nice a quiet. The OEM motors are crap by comparison IMHO. Noisy and have a life span of a fruit fly. I'm pretty sure using the Dayton did in my first control board. May have contributed to issue of my second board as it was run for a season on the new board before I changed back to OEM. Second board just started acting up last night. Could have been weakened I suppose by running a season on Dayton motor. Maybe Englander control boards are just crap? IDNK. As always, leaning the hard way! lol....

 

[Ssyko]

One BIG thing about using aftermarket motors is the amperage it draws on start/run. Most stove boards only have 5 amp fuses but they are mainly for shorts/ground outs. They do very little to save a board from heavy current draw below the fuse amperage.