About to pull the trigger on a blaze king princess 32

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When you are thinking about water vapor and minerals, don't forget cellulose, the stuff we are mostly burning, is a hydrocaron. The end products of (complete) hyrocarbon combustion are CO2 and H2O. Burning bone dry wood still produces water vapor at 600-1000dF, by combing hydrogen in the cellulose with oxygen in the air intake.

I had not, before this thread, considered what component of the smoke stream might be carrying the most minerals into the combustor.

For a first guess I am going to go with burning sap globs. Even in a raging hot stove they give off black smoke in the firebox and incite the combustor to indicated temps notably above ordinary. I have so far this season a golf ball sized and a second baseball sized chunk of dried spruce sap sequestered in the garage. I will be holding onto those until I am ready for a preview of my wife's spring wardrobe of course.

Fascinating question. Drier wood, below 12% for sure, in my experience, makes more smoke and that winter alluded to above was hard on my combustor. I wonder if throttle setting might be a factor as well, as osmium would be more likely to drop out of the smoke stream regardless of carrier molecule when the particle is at a lower velocity and thus has more time to be influenced by gravity.
i'm having some similar issues burning some big hunks of what was an ornamental white spruce tree - very very sappy, and my cat can't seem to keep up with it - getting lots of smoke out the chimney from it. Not sure I'd ever scavenge something similar moving forward as it's burning pretty dirty in my stove.
 
i'm having some similar issues burning some big hunks of what was an ornamental white spruce tree - very very sappy, and my cat can't seem to keep up with it - getting lots of smoke out the chimney from it. Not sure I'd ever scavenge something similar moving forward as it's burning pretty dirty in my stove.

Your signature shows a BK 30 box, same as mine. Spruce is all I burn, White and Black is all that grows up here. I don't do cold starts on sapsicles, but if I am doing a hot reload with an active cat I would be OK putting say a baseball sized chunk of sap in, (pardon me while i google search) 2.86 to 2.94 inches, which oddly for an american sport converts to 7.3 to 7.5 cm, in diameter.

If the white spruce you have is really problematic, check your MC and maybe give it another year to get down to 16% or so if that is possible. I don't generally burn sap soft enough to stick to my fingers. If I can smack it with a hammer and make shrapnel that cuts my finger tips, it is dry enough. Sticky sap needs, for me, more seasoning.

I do not check my stack plume when burning sap. I got black smoke in the firebox headed for an active combustor, a climbing combustor probe and my wife putting her phone down.
 
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Your signature shows a BK 30 box, same as mine. Spruce is all I burn, White and Black is all that grows up here. I don't do cold starts on sapsicles, but if I am doing a hot reload with an active cat I would be OK putting say a baseball sized chunk of sap in, (pardon me while i google search) 2.86 to 2.94 inches, which oddly for an american sport converts to 7.3 to 7.5 cm, in diameter.

If the white spruce you have is really problematic, check your MC and maybe give it another year to get down to 16% or so if that is possible. I don't generally burn sap soft enough to stick to my fingers. If I can smack it with a hammer and make shrapnel that cuts my finger tips, it is dry enough. Sticky sap needs, for me, more seasoning.

I do not check my stack plume when burning sap. I got black smoke in the firebox headed for an active combustor, a climbing combustor probe and my wife putting her phone down.
These pieces are right around 18%. They are very notty and ugly in shape, as it was a big tree in the front of someone's yard (as opposed to a nice bole out in the bush that has been self-pruning). Lots of sap boiling out, and big sticky chunks on the outside. I thought maybe it was just producing so much smoke that the cat cant keep up. I will set some aside as you've suggested and see what another year does to them. But they ain't pretty that's for sure.
 
I'm burning the uglies myself...lots of black walnut an black locust. Been burning 11 weeks and not used any of my stacked firewood.
 
I'm burning the uglies myself...lots of black walnut an black locust. Been burning 11 weeks and not used any of my stacked firewood.
That is ugly and/or lots of uglies.....
 
hey guys just got the stove is this ok? the one fire brick keeps tilting away no mater how i seat it in there. will it dmg my stove if there is a gap?
130131372_814402985777255_8043609991126309486_n.jpg130142252_3563529830392823_7549781057408545734_n.jpg130762076_198722115185186_1688993324869040856_n.jpg
 
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i just took two fire bricks out to see what was under it and i found this. is this anything important?View attachment 268928

Your supposed to have two of those under every brick.


No, not really, I had a rock under my door glass retainers holding it from seating properly too. Just clean it out and burn. You're smart to do this now before those bricks get ash and tar all around them gluing them in place.

Nice to notice little changes they made with the P32. Like your brick retainers are way spaced apart. Also, you appear to have much taller bricks for a more insulated firebox. I wonder what other changes they made. None very large but they all add up.
 
i just took two fire bricks out to see what was under it and i found this. is this anything important?
View attachment 268928
That is not a part associated with your stove. When we dry bricks, they use little spacers to allow for drying. In 25+ years...never seen on stick and make it into a stove. I apologize for the frustration it may have caused.
 
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