Hello, I am considering the purchase of an indoor add on wood furnace. I am interested in hooking it up to the existing ductwork as it would be costly to install a complete separate system just for the add on furnace. So here is where I need some advice, All of my existing supply duct is under my home in the crawlspace. I have only found add on wood furnaces to have the duct coming directly from the top of the units. Would it be a bad idea to 180 the duct off of the top of the add on to penetrate the floor and tie into existing duct?
Add-on wood furnace install question
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That's not even close to the best way, but it would work. Problem would be on power outage over heating the unit. You could put in a reverse fire damper, or actually a spring open power close damper at the top plenum. That way when power goes out the damper will open allowing the heat to escape.
I would advise against it. There's a few manufacturers that specify not to install that way, and I'm sure because of outages. A heat dump would help this, but if something happened and an insurance company caught it, you may not have coverage. I would look at some installation manuals, or call some manufacturers. Better safe than sorry.
hobbyheater
Minister of Fire
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This company builds some very good wood furnaces. Give them a phone call and I'm sure that they would be happy to answer your questions.
This company builds some very good wood furnaces. Give them a phone call and I'm sure that they would be happy to answer your questions.
Thanks for the replies. I figured it was not a very good idea but thought I would throw it out there. I am however covered for power outages with a transfer switch and generator. Worst case, I end up having to add new ductwork. I am thinking that I could get away with just a few ducts towards the opposite end of the house from the wood furnace, maybe 4 outlets at the most. The house is very well insulated and holds heat well.
Thanks Hobbyheater for the link I will check them out.
Thanks Hobbyheater for the link I will check them out.
Kuuma might be out of my price range! The furnace that is getting most of my votes as of now is the Drolet. Almost exactly half the cost.
Is there a reason for this? On paper they look comparable. I know I like the look of the Kuumas better, built like a tank! No wing nuts holding the ash tray! But twice the price. Keep in mind that I live in Indiana so I would probably get 3-4 months use out of my wood furnace a year. I do know one thing, I have a thousand gallon propane tank in the yard that has me worried here lately! @ 4 dollars a gallon right now, a 4000 dollar wood furnace does not look like a bad deal!
Is there a reason for this? On paper they look comparable. I know I like the look of the Kuumas better, built like a tank! No wing nuts holding the ash tray! But twice the price. Keep in mind that I live in Indiana so I would probably get 3-4 months use out of my wood furnace a year. I do know one thing, I have a thousand gallon propane tank in the yard that has me worried here lately! @ 4 dollars a gallon right now, a 4000 dollar wood furnace does not look like a bad deal!
Really, for the price it's hard to beat the Tundra. It offers many good options over other cheaper furnaces, like a multi speed distribution blower, a fully insulated firebox with stainless burn tubes, preheated secondary air, a glass window, etc. As far as price is concerned on the tundra, it falls midway between the cheapest and the most expensive.
There is a place just over in eastern ohio that sells new caddys with blowers for 2600$ Which sounds good in today's market
Yeah, that's an excellent price over what I've been hearing what others are charging. I know my furnace is a rebadged Caddy, but when Usstove had them on their website, they showed a retail of around 3,200 if I remember. The local RKO had them for a thousand less. If a dealer does numbers, I'm sure they can sell for less and still profit.
2600.00 with blower! I have emailed the two PSG dealers that are closest to me for prices on the Caddy. Still awaiting their replies.
More in depth research has shown the Caddy and Tundra/heatmax are made by the same mother company, correct me if Im wrong here. Seems that the Caddy is a more High end model from what I have found out. Maybe heavier plate and upgraded electronics. I am a firm believer in the fact that you get what you pay for ( this goes with everything in life )
but I would also hate to pay 1000+ more if its not needed.
Also I am curious to the amount of heat that the actual furnace itself puts out? In relation to say a wood stove? Are they made in such a way that all of the heat is sent through the duct work or does the area that the furnace sits in also stay warm from the radiant heat from the furnace?
More in depth research has shown the Caddy and Tundra/heatmax are made by the same mother company, correct me if Im wrong here. Seems that the Caddy is a more High end model from what I have found out. Maybe heavier plate and upgraded electronics. I am a firm believer in the fact that you get what you pay for ( this goes with everything in life )
but I would also hate to pay 1000+ more if its not needed.
Also I am curious to the amount of heat that the actual furnace itself puts out? In relation to say a wood stove? Are they made in such a way that all of the heat is sent through the duct work or does the area that the furnace sits in also stay warm from the radiant heat from the furnace?
There's a few differences between a Caddy and a Tundra. They both have the same firebox shell and heat exchanger. The baffle material on the Tundra is vermiculite, while the Caddy has a C-Cast material, which is thicker and more durable. Both contain stainless tubes, and both have a 4 speed blower. From what I've read, the controllers for the dampers on each furnace are Honeywell controllers. The Caddy uses a limit/control while the Tundra uses a snap disc. Also the cabinet is insulated on the Caddy, while the Tundra isn't. The Caddy has a large plenum opening, so the BTU output is greater than the Tundra. Also the ashpan housing is welded on the Caddy, where the Tundra.....I don't know what they will do there. The main difference between the two, is the Caddy has the option for an electric element, or fuel oil to make it a duel fuel furnace. There could be slight changes that I don't know about, but operation from both would be similar.
A woodstove will have a greater temperature difference thru the home than a furnace, unless the house is an open layout. If the home is ducted correctly, there will be very little if any changes in temperature from room to room with a furnace. Just about any furnace will put off some heat in the area where it's located. Our basement for example has no heat registers. The glass window and the ductwork keep the basement in the 60's, while the firebox and heat exchanger heat the two floors above. Having the furnace on a thermostat also helps keep home from having too many swings in temperature. If the house drops in temp, the damper opens and feeds the fire until it's met. In that regard, one could expect to use a little more wood than a stove. Of course, heating demand defermines how much wood will be used.
A woodstove will have a greater temperature difference thru the home than a furnace, unless the house is an open layout. If the home is ducted correctly, there will be very little if any changes in temperature from room to room with a furnace. Just about any furnace will put off some heat in the area where it's located. Our basement for example has no heat registers. The glass window and the ductwork keep the basement in the 60's, while the firebox and heat exchanger heat the two floors above. Having the furnace on a thermostat also helps keep home from having too many swings in temperature. If the house drops in temp, the damper opens and feeds the fire until it's met. In that regard, one could expect to use a little more wood than a stove. Of course, heating demand defermines how much wood will be used.
Laynes69, Lots of good info, thanks.
I have a lot to think about and several furnaces to consider. I am going to do the install this spring/summer so I will have some time to figure out all of the details and what my best options for install would be.
Again thanks for all of the good info everyone.
I have a lot to think about and several furnaces to consider. I am going to do the install this spring/summer so I will have some time to figure out all of the details and what my best options for install would be.
Again thanks for all of the good info everyone.
Wow, I didn't even realize that these things existed. Very interesting. Definitely post back to let me know how it works out.
The "MAX Caddy" looks like a great unit. I'd love to do something like that with my existing forced air furnace. Maybe with the electric resistance for back-up and the DHW pre-heat coil.
The "MAX Caddy" looks like a great unit. I'd love to do something like that with my existing forced air furnace. Maybe with the electric resistance for back-up and the DHW pre-heat coil.
maple1
Minister of Fire
No way would I pass over a ready-built, designed & engineered secondary burning furnace for a cheaper one hoping to somehow re-fit it & make it better.
I agree but I'm on a shoe string budget and the Englander is 1100 around here and the heatmax is 2300 but I might call farm and family out west and see what shipping would be if its 1450 plus 150 for shipping(just a guess) that's 1600 no tax out of state I could afford that I live in NY someone said the deal goes till march
lampmfg
Burning Hunk
Before purchasing the Tundra read the huge thread on arboristsite.com.
You are correct
There is currently very little mark up on our Kuuma Vapor-Fire's so do the math
You are correct
There is currently very little mark up on our Kuuma Vapor-Fire's so do the math
hobbyheater
Minister of Fire
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