Adding a 6" Flexible Sleeve Pipe into Pre Existing 8" Insulated Pipe Question

[Oil97]

Hello There,

I am replacing an old wood stove in my farm house that has an 8" flue. I am going to purchase a BlazeKing Siracco 30.2 and it is a 6" flue. After talking with the Blazeking Reps I was told they do not recommend putting an reducer on my 8" pipe into the top the the 6" stove. It was recommended that I look into using a Stainless DuraFlex 6" liner in run it thru my 8" all the way up the the top. My question is how flexible is this stuff? I have 1- 90 degree turn about 3 feet from the top of the stove out my basement wall and then another 90- degree turn to run up the side of the house to the roof.

Will this be feasible in anyone's opinion if you have worked with a similar product? The whole reason for this is my WETT inspector said if it is not recommended to drop from 8" to 6" in the owners manual then he can not pass it. I want to get this sorted out before I drop the large investment into the stove.

I have attached a pic of how to pipe comes out of the house as well as how the pipe runs out the wall with the old stove.

Thanks!

 

[bholler]

Hello There,

I am replacing an old wood stove in my farm house that has an 8" flue. I am going to purchase a BlazeKing Siracco 30.2 and it is a 6" flue. After talking with the Blazeking Reps I was told they do not recommend putting an reducer on my 8" pipe into the top the the 6" stove. It was recommended that I look into using a Stainless DuraFlex 6" liner in run it thru my 8" all the way up the the top. My question is how flexible is this stuff? I have 1- 90 degree turn about 3 feet from the top of the stove out my basement wall and then another 90- degree turn to run up the side of the house to the roof.

Will this be feasible in anyone's opinion if you have worked with a similar product? The whole reason for this is my WETT inspector said if it is not recommended to drop from 8" to 6" in the owners manual then he can not pass it. I want to get this sorted out before I drop the large investment into the stove.

I have attached a pic of how to pipe comes out of the house as well as how the pipe runs out the wall with the old stove.

Thanks!

View attachment 284836 View attachment 284837

You would run the 6" liner down to a 6" tee inside the chimney then transition to connector pipe once you get through the wall.

 

[Oil97]

You would run the 6" liner down to a 6" tee inside the chimney then transition to connector pipe once you get through the wall.

Ok so your saying you don't try and bend the Duraflex and instead add tee's? And when you say transition to connector pipe once thru the wall would I have to replace my 8" and buy the 6" insulated? Is there any way to continue running it thru the 8" inside and connect right to the stove? Would save some cost's not having to buy new pipe.

 

[bholler]

Ok so your saying you don't try and bend the Duraflex and instead add tee's? And when you say transition to connector pipe once thru the wall would I have to replace my 8" and buy the 6" insulated? Is there any way to continue running it thru the 8" inside and connect right to the stove? Would save some cost's not having to buy new pipe.

You would run the liner to a tee at the bottom of the chimney. The tee snout would run through the wall where you would change over to double wall connector pipe. Trying to bend through those 90s probably wouldn't work and if it did it wouldn't be serviceable at all.

 

[Oil97]

You would run the liner to a tee at the bottom of the chimney. The tee snout would run through the wall where you would change over to double wall connector pipe. Trying to bend through those 90s probably wouldn't work and if it did it wouldn't be serviceable at all.

Ok that makes sense. So the tee snout could run thru the current wall flange correct? Even though it will now be 6"? Then I just run 6" double wall to what will be the top port on my BlazeKing? Would you do 2 of the 45-degree elbows instead of the one 90-degree once inside to get in line with the top of the new stove?

thanks a lot for taking the time to answer my questions..

 

[kennyp2339]

I dont think the BK is for you, you have a vertical height situation and I can see you being frustrated to know end with every time you open the door a puff of smoke comes out, also the ceiling height from the stove top to the ceiling doesn't look high enough.

 

[bholler]

Ok so your saying you don't try and bend the Duraflex and instead add tee's? And when you say transition to connector pipe once thru the wall would I have to replace my 8" and buy the 6" insulated? Is there any way to continue running it thru the 8" inside and connect right to the stove? Would save some cost's not having to buy new pipe.

Yes 2 45s would be better

 

[ABMax24]

Would the King model be an option? It would retain the existing 8" flue and would avoid the liner entirely.

 

[Oil97]

I dont think the BK is for you, you have a vertical height situation and I can see you being frustrated to know end with every time you open the door a puff of smoke comes out, also the ceiling height from the stove top to the ceiling doesn't look high enough.

I have 78'" from the brick pad to the roof, and with the height of the Siracco (32") plus the required 37" put me at 68" so I meet all of those specifications. I am also adding 4 feet of additional chimney height as per my WETT inspection so that will put me at 22 feet of chimney so I feel that is adequate according to BlazeKings spec sheet.

 

[Oil97]

Would the King model be an option? It would retain the existing 8" flue and would avoid the liner entirely.

I need to measure when I get home but looking at the spec I need my roof to be 80.75" tall for the King model and i might be like 79" or so. Otherwise i would just do this option. Either that or remove the brick pad and put a thinner mat there to just barley make it lol.

 

[begreen]

Not sure if the photo is distorting distances. Is the top of the chimney at least 10ft away from the roof in a straight horizontal line to the rooftop?

 

[bholler]

Not sure if the photo is distorting distances. Is the top of the chimney at least 10ft away from the roof in a straight horizontal line to the rooftop?

They said they were adding height

 

[Oil97]

Not sure if the photo is distorting distances. Is the top of the chimney at least 10ft away from the roof in a straight horizontal line to the rooftop?

Ya I am adding an additional 4 feet of chimney on the roof so that should put me within code according to the inspector.

 

[begreen]

Add a proper brace to the chimney at 5' above the roof.

 

[Oil97]

Add a proper brace to the chimney at 5' above the roof.

Ok ya I bought the brace and wasn't quite sure on how high from the roof i should secure it. Thanks for the info!