adding outdoor washer and dryer

[paulmars]

I've read over the codes (broken link removed to https://www.nfpa.org/NEC/About-the-NEC/Explore-the-2017-NEC?openpage=58&access=open)

But still have some questions.

I plan on adding one 20A 115vac breaker and one 30A 230vac breaker. Then running the wires in two conduits thru the block wall from inside garage to the outside. then securing to wet rated surface mount boxes, one each for the 115vac and the 230vac electrical socket receptacles.

The boxes and enclosed covers will be wet outdoor rated.

The receptacles will be GFCI.

I believe the codes said I needed a cutoff outside the house. Why?

When I read the codes a few years ago, I though I read mention of 4 prong required for the 230vac and I think there was also instructions on how to hook up a 4 conductor cord to the older 3 terminal dryers, but i cant find that now.

Any advice will be appreciated.

paul

 

[blades]

4th line earth ground , 2 hots , 1 neutral ( in oldin times the neutral and ground were considered the same generally tied to earth ground at the fuse box) many years back, customers machine would just hiccup causing a shut down in the production line- very random - Till I noticed that each time a heavy truck passed by the problem would occur. Neutral was the conduit only 2 hot leads inside same (230v 1ph) Old building. sections of conduit secured together with set screw couplers which over time and many coats of paint +oxidation of the conduit, had loosened up so the vibration would cause intermittent open circuit. New conduit and new lines and separated the earth and neutral to code. little pricy for the customer. other sections of the wiring were updated by pulling 2 new lines for earth and neutral depending on what the particular line was. All new panels with breakers instead of the screw in glass fuses. There is still quite a bit of this out there. Sometimes I find the panel updated to breakers but not the lines. And I still run into Knob and Post assemblies although that is getting pretty rare now.

 

[zrock]

Make sure u use gfci and not a afci. Where i live its now code to use afci in outdoor applications and its turned into a real hassle as you cannot run anything with a electric motor on them or they will pop. so much for running a weed eater out of them.
You may want to use a gfci breaker instead of a plug you don't want to be hanging over the back of your washer hitting the reset if it trips..
A cut off inside the house would the breaker not fall into this category as a cut off? Pretty sure it does here.

 

[begreen]

Not sure, but I would think that having a plug-in receptacle for each appliance would preclude the need for a service switch, but best to have someone that is up to date on code answer that question.

 

[AlbergSteve]

Make sure u use gfci and not a afci.

No. Friggin'. Kidding. We finished a gut and reno a couple of years ago and arc fault breakers are now required on all circuits except lighting and refrigeration/freezer circuits. What a pain in the a$$. Couldn't even keep the microwave going. I swear the code writers are taking kickbacks from Siemens, Cutler-Hammer et al, for a problem that doesn't exist.

 

[zrock]

Lol... actually if anything I think fridges should have one on em... I was in a rental years ago and everytime I opened the fridge I got zapped and it was no little jolt a few times it tossed me across the kitchen. Strange part was no one else was getting it. I finally noticed that no one was standing on the metal transition strip beside the fridge... I had fun with this for a few days until the landloard came over... then i had fun with him. Let him open it a few time and asked if he found the problem he said no so I told him to stand off to the side... well I think he chit himself and I had to pick him up off the floor... he called me a few choice names and told me the new fridge will be here in a hour... then asked why I didn't just tell him what the problem was... I laughed and said what would be funny about that...

Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk

 

[paulmars]

can I use one conduit for both?
or

Can I tap the 115 off of one side of the 230, like my stove does?

 

[begreen]

can I use one conduit for both?
or

Can I tap the 115 off of one side of the 230, like my stove does?

I think a common conduit is ok, but they each should have dedicated circuits.

 

[zrock]

can I use one conduit for both?
or

Can I tap the 115 off of one side of the 230, like my stove does?

You may want to check your local electrical code. Where i live dryer/stove are to be dedicated circuits nothing can be piggie backed off them. Also the washer circuits is to be dedicated as well. If your stove has another line piggie backed off it and that is not to code if something happens your insurance may not cover it. Also a 30amp or bigger breaker that is on your stove is much bigger than a counter top appliance may blow in time if something goes wrong. Iv seen allot of strange things on wiring but never seen anything piggie backed of a stove circuit

 

[begreen]

but never seen anything piggie backed of a stove circuit

In our last house, the entire kitchen was piggybacked off of the 40A stove circuit! I freaked out when I found this and quickly corrected it.

 

[zrock]

i bet... Some electricians should not be touching wires... Prime example the RV park i used to work at the licenced company that installed the 30/50amp plugs they put them in watertight boxes that were way to small for the wire and plug that had to be mounted. So they had constant issues with the plugs over heating and melting the wiring causing damage to both the park and rv owners equipment. I started building boxes out of a large water tight junction box and mounted the plugs in it.. Lots of room inside so everything is relaxed and not pinched and have not had a issue since i started swapping over. Some off the sites im pretty sure the electrician wired the box up first and then pulled all the slack back to the power panel as i could not even pull a few of the plugs out the wire was so short.

 

[jeanw]

Paulmars do you mean like on a covered porch? Just curious what you mean about an outdoor wsher and dryer?
Did have a propane
stove on the big covered deck. or an electric cooktop built into a 'framed box" with a plug on a table i hate to heat up th house with me cooking or baking stuff every meal...... just chiming in

 

[Highbeam]

Paulmars do you mean like on a covered porch? Just curious what you mean about an outdoor wsher and dryer?
Did have a propane
stove on the big covered deck. or an electric cooktop built into a 'framed box" with a plug on a table i hate to heat up th house with me cooking or baking stuff every meal...... just chiming in

I’ve barbecued bread, pizza, and even cookies to avoid heating the house too much.

If you can source a propane dryer then you can skip the expensive wiring, plugs, and breakers and just use a regular 20 amp 120 volt plug.

 

[paulmars]

concerning the 4th gnd wire.

Some say:

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several sites agree with above, but others instruct differently, as shown here: (broken link removed to https://www.thespruce.com/change-dryer-cord-3-)
prong-to-4-1152248

which is correct?

tks,
paul