Hello and thank you for this forum as ive learned quite a bit of information here.
Setup includes professionally installed Harman TL 300 with double walled 15ish ft chimney. Using dry wood, mostly oak at this point. Large, drafty ranch style house. Using Imperial magnetic temp gauge.
Ive looked at key damper threads and, while helpful, havent addressed my issue. The stove is a champ (with its share of faults) throughout the majority of the burning season. However, when its quite cold i.e. below zero, i would like to slightly throttle the stove with a key damper in bypass mode: with a full load in bypass mode it tends to "overfire" (700+ indicated on gauge) within 10ish min even with air intake at lowest setting. I then close stove damper and immediately open air intake to highest setting. After again 10ish min it burns decently enough to prevent creasote buildup but not much heat.
I world like to install a key damper that would be open 90% of the burning season, but would adjust as neccassary on frigid days: keep stove loaded to gills in bypass, air intake continuously at lowest setting, adjust key damper as neccesary to maintain 500 ish degrre-as-indicated. Always fully open when stove damper is closed.
1 - plausible and\or good idea? Does it make sense?
2 - are there key dampers that are of superior quality? Should i install myself or get or get one already fitted to 6inch length of pipe?
Sorry if this has been addressed and thank you for reading.
Setup includes professionally installed Harman TL 300 with double walled 15ish ft chimney. Using dry wood, mostly oak at this point. Large, drafty ranch style house. Using Imperial magnetic temp gauge.
Ive looked at key damper threads and, while helpful, havent addressed my issue. The stove is a champ (with its share of faults) throughout the majority of the burning season. However, when its quite cold i.e. below zero, i would like to slightly throttle the stove with a key damper in bypass mode: with a full load in bypass mode it tends to "overfire" (700+ indicated on gauge) within 10ish min even with air intake at lowest setting. I then close stove damper and immediately open air intake to highest setting. After again 10ish min it burns decently enough to prevent creasote buildup but not much heat.
I world like to install a key damper that would be open 90% of the burning season, but would adjust as neccassary on frigid days: keep stove loaded to gills in bypass, air intake continuously at lowest setting, adjust key damper as neccesary to maintain 500 ish degrre-as-indicated. Always fully open when stove damper is closed.
1 - plausible and\or good idea? Does it make sense?
2 - are there key dampers that are of superior quality? Should i install myself or get or get one already fitted to 6inch length of pipe?
Sorry if this has been addressed and thank you for reading.