Advice on stove to chimney connection

[motorcycle07]

Hi everyone,
I am somewhat new to wood burning but am not completely unexperienced. I have an Osburn 2200 sitting in the garage waiting on me to finish my stove room floor remodel. I was looking yesterday at the supplies I would need to hook it up to the chimney and see that I need to make some modifications to how the existing stove hooked up to the chimney and so I am here after some advice.

Details. The chimney is a 7" round clay lined masonry chimney on the exterior of a 2 story house with the stove in the mostly finished walk out basement. The stovepipe runs through the interior wall which is ~3/4" of wood paneling with some insulation fastened directly to the cement (i.e. no framing) through the foundation into a clay pipe tee. My plan is to run 7" double wall pipe necked down to 6" with two 45 degree elbows to the stove. To connect the pipe into the clay my plan was to remove a section of the second (outermost) pipe to run singe wall through the foundation and into the clay with the double wall starting at the interior side of the foundation. I planned on placing refractory cement around the outside of the double wall to seal against the of the foundation just to be safe.

Of course I am looking for any problems anyone might see with this setup but my question concerns the wood paneling. If I just run double walled trough the paneling I would need 6" of clearance on all sides of the pipe. This means a 20" diameter hole through my paneling, and while I could fabricate a plate to cover this up it seems excessive. So I thought if I instead made a plate that was 15" in diameter I could fasten a metal ring 1/2" away from the double walled pipe and fill with insulation that I could in effect make a short section of triple walled pipe and reduce my clearance to the wood paneling to 2". Does anybody have any advice on this setup? Different ideas? I know some are going to say I should run a 6" liner down the chimney, however I am not keen on this idea for several reasons. For one it doesn't solve my clearance problem.

By searching this forums and products offered I have discovered that my situation is fairly unique, and thus my post. I hope I did my research and am not another newb posting questions answered hundreds of times before.

I hope I explained the setup well enough that you guys can picture it.

Thanks in advance to anyone who takes the time to read this post and reply.

 

[begreen]

Welcome. 7" is an odd size and expensive. I would put a 7x6" reducer right at the thimble. But you bring up a good point of concern with the paneling. Can you post a picture of the current thimble and then pull back a bit with a shot of the hearth and chimney?

 

[motorcycle07]

Welcome. 7" is an odd size and expensive. I would put a 7x6" reducer right at the thimble. But you bring up a good point of concern with the paneling. Can you post a picture of the current thimble and then pull back a bit with a shot of the hearth and chimney?

Yes I planned on necking down as soon as possible or to minimize wasted pipe.

Haha I was hoping no one would ask for pictures as it meant explanation and cringing.

Do not ask me how someone thought this was a good idea and was able to get away with it. As you can see the paneling is around a 1/2" away from a single wall pipe and the pipe doesn't line up with the clay tile. You can see the need for modification . I will be removing the foundation necessary to line the pipe up with the clay. Also the chunks of cement were from me digging around yesterday trying to remove that pipe to verify the clay tile is 7" like at the top of the chimney.

I can only assume that this setup was not used much as the paneling was not charred at all although from the look of the stove I removed it had been used some. Is there such as thing that this isn't wood but is asbestos or something else fire retardant?

Also another problem is that I only have access to the chimney at the connection level from inside because the chimney is underground (at the level the pipe connects to the chimney).

 

[begreen]

If you look closely you can see there is already some color change and darkening of the paneling at the top edge. Whoever did this is very lucky they didn't burn the house down. By all means do not burn until this is fixed correctly. Before making suggestions I would like to understand what we are looking at in the first picture on the other side of the flue. It almost looks like there was another take off there? Is this the only connection on this chimney?

Here is a good article to start you off on a proper installation:
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/articles/passing_a_chimney

 

[motorcycle07]

If you look closely you can see there is already some color change and darkening of the paneling at the top edge. Whoever did this is very lucky they didn't burn the house down. By all means do not burn until this is fixed correctly. Before making suggestions I would like to understand what we are looking at in the first picture on the other side of the flue. It almost looks like there was another take off there? Is this the only connection on this chimney?

Here is a good article to start you off on a proper installation:
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/articles/passing_a_chimney

This is the only connection to the flue. This is an exterior foundation wall with an exterior chimney with the flue connection below ground level. It is hard to see in the picture but the metal pipe runs through the foundation only and butts up against the clay flue connection.The metal pipe and the flue connection are misaligned. I checked out the article you recommended. I am in a slightly different situation since the clay pipe runs trough the chimney only and not through the foundation as well. I would assume from this you would recommenced knocking out a large enough hole in the foundation to run a double walled pipe all the way to the clay. Again with the inside pipe running into the clay pipe.
There is no framing agaisnt the foundation just the panneling.
Thanks

 

[begreen]

Yes, I'm thinking class A through the wall and chimney is going to be the best way to get things down to 2" clear.