Advise needed for hearth mounted free standing stove!

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.

iamspt

New Member
Hearth Supporter
Dec 19, 2010
3
North West NJ
Just moved into my new house that is equipped with a heat pump and steel heatilator inserted into massive massonary hearth/chimney. I am already going through withdrawals from not having a wood stove as I did in my old place (pacific energy spectrum classic). With the heat pump not keeping up with needs, i quickly torched out the heatilator, lined the masonry box with brick and placed an extended bluestone hearthstone. The clay/terra cotta liner measures approx 12x12 and appears to be in good shape.

The plan is to install a new pacifric energy spectrum classic stove (with legs) in the opening and vent up the chimney with proper pipe.

Here is the question though, what is the proper pipe to use? From my research it looks to be best practive to utilize a liner with insulation wrap all the way up to the top of the chimney. Others say to use supervent insulated pipe out the top of the stove all the way up to the top of the chimney.

I was thinking there had to be a way to install liner/chimney from the start of the terra cotta to the end of the tera cotta (location from where the damper used to be all the way up to the top of the chimney. Snug it all in and securely fasteded. dress up the inside of the old fireplace where it meets the liner with some concrete to fill some crevices to reduce cool draft. then install a small piece of black flex or black stove pipe t connect to "the chimney system"

What is the best way to go about this?

I am handy and understand the importance of doing things right. the few dealers i spoke to in my area want to run flex rightout of the top of my stove all the way up to the roof. 2 things i was nto crazey about was that they all charge 1800-2300 for the materials and labor to install the liner.other thing was that i think the steel colored flex liner would look poor coming out of the top of the stove (unless this could be painted black with stove paint?


What do you think?
 

Attachments

  • [Hearth.com] Advise needed for hearth mounted free standing stove!
    hearth.webp
    6.4 KB · Views: 460
Your answer lies in your last line.. Just paint it black. As straight forward as this install sounds.. and you state you are a handy DIY'er.. don't pay anyone for the install, DIY.
 
Thanks for the feedback.

What about insulation wrap? Should I wrap the liner with insulation? its going in a 12x12 terra cotta flue pipe in masonary chimney.

Should I take the liner right from the top of the stove all the way to the top of the chmney? One piece?

Thanks for all the help.
 
Probably should be insulated. It sounds like you have plenty of wiggle room in the flue. How tall is the chimney? Is it interior or exterior?

You should be able to splice on a short length of rigid pipe onto the end of the flex to get the clean look you want. I would finish the bottom seal in black painted metal, at the lintel height.
 
When we ran into challenges with our wood stove installation we did a ton of research.

We found this product and we have loved it.

http://www.duravent.com/?page=4a.php

There is no need to wrap insulation as it is already insulated and double walled. The sections pop rivet together and install very easily.

When we are able to install a fireplace insert or a hearthstove in our second tile lined masonry chimney flue we will be using the same product again. We have had zero issues with this liner and cleaning it has been a snap. It also helps that we have a low pitch roof :)
 
I hearth mounted my NC-13. I went with the insulation wrap on my liner.
 
OK...so the stove was installed. I spoke to the fire inspector in town and he said that as long it was a clay masonary chimney, the lliner did not need to be insulated.

The chimney is on an exterior wall. We wound up putting in a 2 foot section of black stove pipe and then connected it to the liner as suggested above. then all the way out to the top of the chimney with the rain cap.

one month in and has been working great. the heat is rising right off the stove so the old chimney is getting warmed nicely from the ehat rising as well as the liner. The stove has been going just about full time. i load it up in th emorning and get it going, dampen it down all the way and let er run all day. just enough of coals to get it going real quick when I get home 10 hours later.

Thanks for eveyones input!
 
iamspt said:
OK...so the stove was installed. I spoke to the fire inspector in town and he said that as long it was a clay masonary chimney, the lliner did not need to be insulated.

The chimney is on an exterior wall. We wound up putting in a 2 foot section of black stove pipe and then connected it to the liner as suggested above. then all the way out to the top of the chimney with the rain cap.

one month in and has been working great. the heat is rising right off the stove so the old chimney is getting warmed nicely from the ehat rising as well as the liner. The stove has been going just about full time. i load it up in th emorning and get it going, dampen it down all the way and let er run all day. just enough of coals to get it going real quick when I get home 10 hours later.

Thanks for eveyones input!
Insulation helps prevent compromised flues (cracked/broken tiles, etc.,) from passing the heat on to nearby combustibles (wood framing,etc.) in the case of chimney fires. Without a *thorough* inspection of the chimney flue there is no way to know if the chimney is solid or if it's integrity is questionable. Insulation wraps are normally used on flexible liners when the condition of the flue is not known. Was your chimney actually inspected or did the inspector simply give it a rubber stamp "ok"?

Do you have a block-off plate installed to keep the stoves heat from going up annular space between the liner and brick chimney? Simply letting the heat rise into the chimney will cause a good bit of heat to be loss through the brick/mortar to the great outdoors.

Keep an eye on the chimney cap and top of liner....insulation helps to keep the highest points of the flue hot and thus helps to reduce creosote formation.

Best wishes,
Ed
 
Status
Not open for further replies.