Air tool oilers

[Ashful]

I'm making some pretty substantial changes to my shop air system, and debating the addition of an air oiler. Since I do semi-frequent spraying of paints and clear finishes, and because my trim nailers are PTFE-sleeved oil-less jobs, I've always run without an oiler. That means manually oiling, die grinders, impact guns, needle scalers, framing nailers, roofing nailers, and all the other tools requiring oil.

Interested in getting advice and opinions from others in similar situation. If I did this, I'd be hanging two hoses, one for oiled air and a second for clean. But since I'm often stringing 200 feet of hose from my shop to the house for various jobs, it's not an entirely trivial decision.

 

[EbS-P]

I'm making some pretty substantial changes to my shop air system, and debating the addition of an air oiler. Since I do semi-frequent spraying of paints and clear finishes, and because my trim nailers are PTFE-sleeved oil-less jobs, I've always run without an oiler. That means manually oiling, die grinders, impact guns, needle scalers, framing nailers, roofing nailers, and all the other tools requiring oil.

Interested in getting advice and opinions from others in similar situation. If I did this, I'd be hanging two hoses, one for oiled air and a second for clean. But since I'm often stringing 200 feet of hose from my shop to the house for various jobs, it's not an entirely trivial decision.

Couple drops when you are using a tool seems better to me than grabbing the wrong hose and ruining an almost done finish. How many years have you gotten by without? And how much oil are you going through?

I’d definitely have a drier.

On a related note. I got this for my dad and I run 1/4 mile down the street to grab it anytime I need to use a compressor inside. (broken link removed to https://www.californiaairtools.com/ultra-quiet-series-of-air-compressor-contractor-grade/1-0-hp-air-compressors/cat-2010a/)

 

[ABMax24]

Can't you just get an inline oiler? At least that's what we used to do on big 1" air lines running 1" impacts.

IMO air is becoming a thing of the past for a lot of tools. Besides our plasma cutters at work we've switched everything else over to electric, both corded and cordless. A pair of 3/4" Milwaukee impacts have replaced a diesel compressor and a pair of 1" impacts, and a month of fuel savings paid for the tools.

 

[Ashful]

Couple drops when you are using a tool seems better to me than grabbing the wrong hose and ruining an almost done finish. How many years have you gotten by without? And how much oil are you going through?

I've had this compressor maybe 25 years, and don't go thru that much oil. But on the flip side, I've wiped out a few die grinders and several nailers, likely due to insufficient oiling.

I’d definitely have a drier.

Of course, in fact I have a few, for varying requirements (eg. linear polyurethanes require extremely dry air).

On a related note. I got this for my dad and I run 1/4 mile down the street to grab it anytime I need to use a compressor inside. (broken link removed to https://www.californiaairtools.com/ultra-quiet-series-of-air-compressor-contractor-grade/1-0-hp-air-compressors/cat-2010a/)

Yep, I have a similar small compressor that I drag around to fill tires or do trim work in the house, when I don't want to drag a hose down from the big compressor in my shop. Very handy.

Can't you just get an inline oiler? At least that's what we used to do on big 1" air lines running 1" impacts.

Yep, that's what I'm talking about. Here's what I'm thinking:

1. Long run of black pipe for some cooling and to get over to where I hang hose
2. Separator
3. Regulator
4. clean air drop to yellow hose
5. Inline oiler
6. oiled air drop to black hose

In my old shop, I actually ran a cooler between the compressor and separator, and will likely get back to that in the future, but this will do for now.

IMO air is becoming a thing of the past for a lot of tools. Besides our plasma cutters at work we've switched everything else over to electric, both corded and cordless. A pair of 3/4" Milwaukee impacts have replaced a diesel compressor and a pair of 1" impacts, and a month of fuel savings paid for the tools.

True, but this is a different scenario than a pro job site. This is in my own shop at home, not pro use, and not interested in replacing my current investment in air tools! My pneumatic impacts are only 1/2" for personal automotive use, etc.

 

[ABMax24]

Yep, that's what I'm talking about. Here's what I'm thinking:

1. Long run of black pipe for some cooling and to get over to where I hang hose
2. Separator
3. Regulator
4. clean air drop to yellow hose
5. Inline oiler
6. oiled air drop to black hose

In my old shop, I actually ran a cooler between the compressor and separator, and will likely get back to that in the future, but this will do for now.


True, but this is a different scenario than a pro job site. This is in my own shop at home, not pro use, and not interested in replacing my current investment in air tools! My pneumatic impacts are only 1/2" for personal automotive use, etc.

I guess the oilers I'm talking about went on the hose itself just before the tool, don't contaminate the whole system with oil that way.

I get that, we switched as pneumatic tools broke, a homeowner isn't going to wear out a tool in a year or two like we do.

 

[Ashful]

I guess the oilers I'm talking about went on the hose itself just before the tool, don't contaminate the whole system with oil that way.

I get that, we switched as pneumatic tools broke, a homeowner isn't going to wear out a tool in a year or two like we do.

I've seen inline air dryers that go right on the tool handle, but have never seen oilers of that size/type. Got a link?

One other advantage of my proposed plan is having two hoses on the first floor of my shop. One is oiled and one is clean, but that's probably the scenario I'm after most of the time, such as running a die grinder on one hose and an blow gun on the other. Even if running nailers, my framing and roofing nailers are oiled, but all of my trim nailers are oil-less. So, having two hoses laid out with oil in one and not the other, may be very handy.

Given the way these oilers work by venturi, how badly do you think an oiler tee'd off immediately downstream of the "clean" drop will back-contaminate the clean line? Mostly only a concern when painting, but once oil is into a system, it's a lot of work and time to get it out.

 

[ABMax24]

I've seen inline air dryers that go right on the tool handle, but have never seen oilers of that size/type. Got a link?

One other advantage of my proposed plan is having two hoses on the first floor of my shop. One is oiled and one is clean, but that's probably the scenario I'm after most of the time, such as running a die grinder on one hose and an blow gun on the other. Even if running nailers, my framing and roofing nailers are oiled, but all of my trim nailers are oil-less. So, having two hoses laid out with oil in one and not the other, may be very handy.

Given the way these oilers work by venturi, how badly do you think an oiler tee'd off immediately downstream of the "clean" drop will back-contaminate the clean line? Mostly only a concern when painting, but once oil is into a system, it's a lot of work and time to get it out.

This isn't the exact one, but gives the idea:

We don't put them right on the tool, but have a 5ft "whip" that this goes on. That way the oiler stays on the ground, and you aren't holding it's weight all day.

In-Line Pneumatic Tool Lubricator - Capital Rubber Corp

In-line lubricators add a fine oil mist directly into the compressed air hose line, which prolongs the life of pneumatic tools that require lubrication.

capitalrubber.com

I'd put a check valve in, a spring type of some kind, piston, ball, etc upstream of the oiler, and a few feet of pipe between the tee and the oiler should almost guarantee you won't get contamination. If you want to get real fancy do like we do in industry, install 2 dissimilar checks upstream of the oiler.

 

[semipro]

IMO air is becoming a thing of the past for a lot of tools. Besides our plasma cutters at work we've switched everything else over to electric, both corded and cordless.

Agreed.
I use compressed air for plasma cutting, cleaning, and painting - going electric on everything else.
Compressors are loud and inefficient and air hoses are awkward and prone to damage.
Line-injected oil ends up somewhere after exiting the tool; surfaces, the air, lungs, etc. I'd rather avoid that.

 

[Ashful]

All true, esp. those using it 40 hours per week for their daily grind. But I'm just a weekender, wrenching on cars or tractors with air ratchets or impact guns, shooting paint or varnish with HVLP guns, or firing air-powered nailers working on house projects. Definitely a high-usage case for Joe Homeowner, but nowhere near the health concerns of anyone doing any one of these things for their profession, or the budget of any company buying replacement tools for their employees.

For your home use, would you consider just putting a few drops of oil into each air tool when you grab it out of the drawer or reload a clip of nails, as I've been doing, or would you just bite the bullet and install an automatic oiler on a second air hose?

 

[brenndatomu]

I used to have a spray in bed liner business...never any oilers, only a couple drops in the tools every now and again...would sand for hours straight sometimes...still have those same tools today, no issues.

 

[semipro]

As an auto mechanic several careers ago and later as a DIYer I've always just added a few drops of oil to an air tool before each use. I've had very few failures of the motor portion of air tools, actually none that I can remember. Of course, being a pro, I bought and continue to use high-end air tools like Ingersol Rand, Snap-on, etc. so that may be a factor in longevity.

 

[johneh]

I have an oiler on my compressor that works well to keep all my air tools oiled .
But I also spray lacquer a lot so I have a dedicated airline without oil for spraying
of finishes

 

[Ashful]

I've had a few air tool failures, and at least some are definitely due to lack of oil:

1. Bosch framing nailer, failed after maybe 3 years of use. Failure was in the piston seal, likely due to lack of oil, despite me giving it three drops of a good air tool oil with each refill of the clip. But as I bought as a refurb, there's a chance it came to me pre-damaged.

2. 90° die grinder of unknown brand (may have been Ingersol Rand). This happened more than ten years ago, and I believe the failure may have been in the gearbox, which was lubed separately, not the air motor. Shouldn't be blamed on oiling.

3. Finish nailer, failed after one very big job. Can't remember the brand, but it would have been a good one (Senco, Bostich, Bosch, etc.). It was a model that called for oil, but since I was doing molding in an already painted room, I had to run dry to avoid blowing oil on a white ceiling. Seized near end of job, and was replaced with proper Senco oil-less nailers.

4. 1/2" air impact wrench. Also can't remember brand, but it had a blue rubber grip on handle, so likely Bosch. This is the one that really bothers me, as I did give it a few drops of oil before use, but was then driving long lag bolts into PT lumber. Air motor failed, appeared to be due to insufficient lube, given long usage at high torque. These things seem to be designed for only short bursts high torque (lug nut scenario), not long duration high torque (eg. long lag bolts), unless you can keep constant oil on them.

 

[semipro]

These things seem to be designed for only short bursts high torque (lug nut scenario), not long duration high torque (eg. long lag bolts), unless you can keep constant oil on them.

That sounds about right.

 

[Ashful]

I have picked up an 18 volt impact driver in the years since wrecking that 1/2" air impact gun. It's only 1/4" hex, and no good for lug nuts, but it's great for driving TimberLok's, and even pretty good for driving 3/8" lags, when pre-drilled appropriately. Can't remember if I've tried it on anything larger than that, but there's always the brace or ratchet, for those rare occasions.

 

[Ashful]

New question, while I have the air tool guru's all gathered. If you had to choose a completely new piping system for your shop air, what would it be?

In a prior shop, I ran air thru a huge coil of heavy type-K copper, to cool it on its trip from the compressor to the separator and dryer, which meant it was just easiest to do the whole system in type-K copper. In the new shop, I could conveniently mount a fin tube baseboard radiator above a garage door, for the same purpose, but I'm having trouble finding it in any reasonable gauge copper, and I'm just not comfortable 150 PSI straight from the compressor thru type M fin tube.

Black pipe would be a slam dunk for everything but the cooling factor, but it has so many issues with rust, that I have to believe there's a better way.

Anyone got a good source for fin tube that's safe at 150+ PSI? Should I just bite the bullet and do everything in aluminum? What's the current thinking, on this?

Edit: should have added that I’m seriously thinking of just building my own radiator out of type K copper, as I could fit it nicely into the available space. Would be just several branches of small diameter, terminating in 3/4” at either end, with some wire soldered perpendicular across tubes, and then all painted with black radiator paint.

 

[Ashful]

My thread died.

Fun fact, even the thin type-M drawn copper tubes seem to be rated 680 psi working pressure (4715 psi burst). If so, maybe I'm unnecessarily concerned about running 150 psi thru baseboard fin tube? It would be an ideal solution to pipe air from my compressor on one side of an overhead door to the regulator and hose on the other side, while providing the desired cooling to let the separator do its thing.

Copper Tubes Type K, L and M - Working Pressures vs. Size

ASTM B88 seamless copper water tubes - working pressures.

www.engineeringtoolbox.com

Unfortunately, it seems most are only rated 15 - 30 psi, although Runtal apparently has a "high pressure" series rated to 128 psi. My compressor is spec'd 100 - 125 psi, with a 140 psi safety blow-off, so in the range:

Baseboard Radiators | Residential Hydronic Heating | Runtal Radiators

Runtal’s Baseboard style is ideal for those desiring a low profile. Our experts will assist you with finding the exact size, heat capacity and décor your are looking for.

runtalnorthamerica.com

 

[ABMax24]

Black pipe does a lot of cooling too, depends on your length.

Copper is a waste of money IMO, especially the heavy wall stuff. Thin wall transmits heat faster.

If you want better moisture removal get a refrigerated dryer, they're not that expensive in the small units. Probably less costly than your copper pipe and finned radiator.

 

[Ashful]

Black pipe does a lot of cooling too, depends on your length.

Copper is a waste of money IMO, especially the heavy wall stuff. Thin wall transmits heat faster.

If you want better moisture removal get a refrigerated dryer, they're not that expensive in the small units. Probably less costly than your copper pipe and finned radiator.

Yeah, I actually had a chiller in my old shop, but got rid of it (along with about half of my old equipment) when I moved here, as it’s size and shape didn’t work well into my new shop layout. Really hoping to stay passive, and fit it above a garage door, this time around.

But copper ain’t that expensive, when compared to pipe, and helps avoid rusty water in your lines and separator, which tends to make a mess of things. Also much easier to configure, versus cutting and threading pipe to fit tight spaces. I was pretty happy with the copper system I had in my old shop.

What’s really surprising me is how minuscule the pressure drops are, by my calculations, even in relatively small (eg 1/2”) lines. I was thinking of running 3/4” off the compressor to three laterals if 3/8”, but it appears to be complete overkill at an expected max 15 CFM for a one-man operation.

 

[semipro]

I hate to see a thread die too soon

@Ashful Not the info you're looking for but... given how I use compressed air now, I've simply installed a hose reel in a central location and plumbed it to my air compressor which is located against a wall -- no distribution piping.
My primary uses are inflating equipment/auto tires, blowing things clean, plasma cutting, and occasional painting.

 

[Ashful]

You know, I have this big honkin' 4-zone Mitsubishi mini split outdoor unit, with only two indoor units attached. Shame no one appears to make an air/freon heat exchanger for these, as it'd sure be nice to just pipe the air thru that, and let the super-efficient chiller I already have mounted outside, handle this load.

 

[Ashful]

@Ashful Not the info you're looking for but... given how I use compressed air now, I've simply installed a hose reel in a central location and plumbed it to my air compressor which is located against a wall -- no distribution piping.
My primary uses are inflating equipment/auto tires, blowing things clean, plasma cutting, and occasional painting.

Yep, not far from what I'm doing, except my compressor is on one side of an overhead door and my hose hanger is on the other. I also have about 250 feet of hose, which I connect inline only when needed, as dragging it down to the house from the shop is a frequent occurrence.

But aren't you running a separator? I used to have water literally blowing out of my tools after maybe 30 minutes, before I installed a separator, and some copper between compressor and separator, to let the air cool before hitting the separator. That might have been back before I had HVAC in the shop, I can't remember now, but I still run with the doors open some days.

 

[semipro]

Yep, not far from what I'm doing, except my compressor is on one side of an overhead door and my hose hanger is on the other. I also have about 250 feet of hose, which I connect inline only when needed, as dragging it down to the house from the shop is a frequent occurrence.

But aren't you running a separator? I used to have water literally blowing out of my tools after maybe 30 minutes, before I installed a separator, and some copper between compressor and separator, to let the air cool before hitting the separator. That might have been back before I had HVAC in the shop, I can't remember now, but I still run with the doors open some days.

I don't have many issues with water in lines and only run a separator when painting. I drain the compressor tank every once in a while and that's it. I never see water exiting my tools. I suppose it might be an ambient humidity issue and where I am at 2000ft. elevation is relatively dry. I used to run this same compressor in Texas and water was definitely an issue there.

 

[Ashful]

Yeah, it's definitely an issue here. Can't even make a bead blaster work without a separator, constant clogs due to moisture. Draining the compressor is definitely good practice, but with any water in the bottom sitting 3 feet from the outlet on the side of a vertical tank, probably not a big contributor to air in the lines.

When I got this compressor 20 years ago, I first tried tagging the separator right onto the side of the compressor, and found it stopped working as soon as the compressor bottle got hot. Air needs to be cool enough to allow the water to condense out of it, for the separator to do its job.

 

[Eman85]

For what it's worth I've run an oiler in the past, it worked good for the tools but was hell on hoses. I have plenty of mechanics air tools and have kept them going with just a squirt of oil before use, some are very old keep on working.
Just for an experiment I plumbed a hose reel and ran some PEX to see how it would work out. Been 5 or 6 years and it works fine. I only run about 100 PSI in my shop. I use cordless tools more than air tools now.