Alcove install abort/switch to through wall ?s

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eje201

New Member
Sep 1, 2021
4
48848
Hello, studied the forums for a couple years designing my dream install.

Tore out Z-clearance to do an alcove install. Decided on englander NC30 stove and had everything figured out. Finally got around to starting and new epa stove came out so went with that. Didn’t see anything in manual about alcove so thought I was golden because all other clearances got better. Weeellll, yeah that was wrong. It’s not listed so no legal alcove install *#%@! Chimney is already installed with a ceiling support box. Instead of finding a new stove (got it on spring clearance for $450!) that works for alcove install I’m going to just frame in wall and do a through the wall thimble to tee.

Not trying to overanalize but since I totally screwed myself on the alcove part I don’t want to get in a bind a second time. I have to climb up in the chase and disassemble the chimney so that I can remove the ceiling support and switch to tee. Going to be a pain to line up with stainless chase cover I had custom made. It’s like 20-25’ + tall chase. Can’t remember off hand

here lies my questions:

1. stove is 7” rear clearance. If I put solid brick right against new studs do I measure from edge of brick or to the wood studs?

if because they are touching means it’s “one” material (read both ways on the web) I could just switch to steal studs right?

2. If I go with steel studs and brick against that, does the same heat transfer happen laterally to the combustible material on the sides? Say my wood wall studs are 1” past the side clearances but it’s flush to the bricks, does that make that wall “one” material and mess with my numbers?

3. Since tee has to match up with current chase cover, what if horizontal section goes too far through thimble into house so you see the stainless? Can you just paint it? Just screwed?
Thanks everyone for your time. Have probable spent 30-40 hrs reading on forums but not usually a poster.

Going with supervent 6” and englander 15-W03

632D0E33-681B-48CE-96F6-2AE7210C7E5B.jpeg
 

bholler

Chimney sweep
Staff member
Jan 14, 2014
26,193
central pa
Hello, studied the forums for a couple years designing my dream install.

Tore out Z-clearance to do an alcove install. Decided on englander NC30 stove and had everything figured out. Finally got around to starting and new epa stove came out so went with that. Didn’t see anything in manual about alcove so thought I was golden because all other clearances got better. Weeellll, yeah that was wrong. It’s not listed so no legal alcove install *#%@! Chimney is already installed with a ceiling support box. Instead of finding a new stove (got it on spring clearance for $450!) that works for alcove install I’m going to just frame in wall and do a through the wall thimble to tee.

Not trying to overanalize but since I totally screwed myself on the alcove part I don’t want to get in a bind a second time. I have to climb up in the chase and disassemble the chimney so that I can remove the ceiling support and switch to tee. Going to be a pain to line up with stainless chase cover I had custom made. It’s like 20-25’ + tall chase. Can’t remember off hand

here lies my questions:

1. stove is 7” rear clearance. If I put solid brick right against new studs do I measure from edge of brick or to the wood studs?

if because they are touching means it’s “one” material (read both ways on the web) I could just switch to steal studs right?

2. If I go with steel studs and brick against that, does the same heat transfer happen laterally to the combustible material on the sides? Say my wood wall studs are 1” past the side clearances but it’s flush to the bricks, does that make that wall “one” material and mess with my numbers?

3. Since tee has to match up with current chase cover, what if horizontal section goes too far through thimble into house so you see the stainless? Can you just paint it? Just screwed?
Thanks everyone for your time. Have probable spent 30-40 hrs reading on forums but not usually a poster.

Going with supervent 6” and englander 15-W03

View attachment 281509
Why not just leave it as is and run double wall connector pipe to the stove Infront of the alcove?
 

eje201

New Member
Sep 1, 2021
4
48848
Why not just leave it as is and run double wall connector pipe to the stove Infront of the alcove?
Hadn’t thought of that. I’ll have to try to visualize that look. I wonder what the break point is from alcove to “regular” install. Maybe just back of stove is “1 out past where that room wall and regular ceiling are? I’m assuming if any part of the stove breaks that threshold then it’s alcove? Thanks for the thought! Glad I posted already haha.
 
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bholler

Chimney sweep
Staff member
Jan 14, 2014
26,193
central pa
Hadn’t thought of that. I’ll have to try to visualize that look. I wonder what the break point is from alcove to “regular” install. Maybe just back of stove is “1 out past where that room wall and regular ceiling are? I’m assuming if any part of the stove breaks that threshold then it’s alcove? Thanks for the thought! Glad I posted already haha.
I am not positive when it would not be considered an alcove install anymore but I would assume if the stove is Infront of the alcove at all it would be ok. That is really a question for the stove manufacturer