Advice needed, ZC fireplace to Woodstove

[Highridge]

Hello, looking for advice on my plans to replace my ZC fireplace with a freestanding Woodstove. The issue i have is having a non masonry chase. The way I see it I have two options, remove the ZC and stonework and make an alcove from floor to ceiling, or, what I’m learning towards, is removing the ZC, frame the opening with metal studs and durockand fill with more stonework and wall thimble. Both option will require a new class A chimney down the chase, but option two will allow a clean out tee that can be accessed from the basement. Hearth will be lowered to floor height and extended to meet stove requirements. Any thoughts?

 

[EbS-P]

How important is floor space? Are you choosing a highly radiant stove? Alcoves get tricky because you have to build to your specs that your stove choice dictates. Different stoves have did specs.

I vote class A inside a chase. Thimble at say 6’ off floor? Only reason would be maximum flexibility for stove choice.

 

[Highridge]

Stove will be either a Jotul Oslo or Firelight if I can find a decent used one. I know it’s preferable to go top exit but I’m thinking rear exit right into the thimble. It’s a decent sized room so having the stove stick out isn’t really a deal breaker.

 

[begreen]

Straight up is preferred but both plans can work as long as all clearance requirements are honored. Here is a ZC chase turned into an alcove.

Stove will be either a Jotul Oslo or Firelight if I can find a decent used one. I know it’s preferable to go top exit but I’m thinking rear exit right into the thimble. It’s a decent sized room so having the stove stick out isn’t really a deal breaker.

Skip the Firelight F12, and consider a less radiant Jotul like the F45.

 

[Highridge]

It definitely wouldn’t be an F12, i would prefer the closest F600 to new I can find but they are so rare around here I will probably end up with an Oslo.

 

[begreen]

Both the F500 and the F600 are radiant stoves that would be best as a freestander and not in an alcove. They need at least 16" clear with a hearth extension for the side-door loading. This fits with the second option. How tall is the current flue on the ZC?

 

[Highridge]

Both the F500 and the F600 are radiant stoves that would be best as a freestander and not in an alcove. They need at least 16" clear with a hearth extension for the side-door loading. This fits with the second option. How tall is the current flue on the ZC?

The flue is around 28 feet. Haven’t opened up the chase yet to confirm if it’s insulated but if not I will add some to help keep the flue temps up.

 

[EbS-P]

The flue is around 28 feet. Haven’t opened up the chase yet to confirm if it’s insulated but if not I will add some to help keep the flue temps up.

That’s tall may need a damper even with two 90s

 

[begreen]

The flue is around 28 feet. Haven’t opened up the chase yet to confirm if it’s insulated but if not I will add some to help keep the flue temps up.

That's more than sufficient with the two 90º turns in the second option.

 

[Highridge]

Revisiting this, I have removed the ZC fireplace and now have an opening to the chase behind. I have decided to go with the Jotul F55 carrabasett (haven’t purchased yet) and turn this into an alcove all the way to the ceiling. Alcove size will be 60” wide to the studs and 24” deep. Based on the clearances I should have no issues with the width. My question is would Durock with a 1” air gap on the rear wall be considered a protected alcove or will I still need the 19” of rear clearance ?

 

[begreen]

As long as the cement board has a bottom gap of an inch or two off the floor and at least a 1" gap at the top, it will qualify. Air needs to be able to freely convect without obstruction behind it.