Alderlea T6 Window Gasket/ Door Removal?

[Patriot21]

Hi guys,

I purchased a new pre-2020 Alderlea T6 last fall (manufactured January 2019), series B. The only problem I've had with it is the gasket that goes around the glass. When I first looked at it at home it was coming off, and during cleaning the glass today it ripped in half. I contacted the dealer when I first noticed it last fall and they sent me out some gasket cement, but I wasn't happy with the result of the cement and I think the gasket might have been defective from the get-go. Well I contacted the dealer today and they said they will happily change the gasket for me if I bring the door in to their shop. I asked them how to remove it, and they sent me this response:

When you open the door, there is a black rubber stopper on the bottom that stops the door from opening all the way. If you pull that out, the door will lift off.

I don't see any rubber on the T6 anywhere. Does anybody know the best way to take the door off? Also, is this the best course of action to fix the window gasket? Do you think I should have them send me a new gasket and I can do it at home, keeping the door on? I've searched the forums and didn't really see the best way to take the door off, but a lot of similar threads about gasket problems. Any help is appreciated. The dealer is very responsive and seem to be genuine people.

Thank you,
Jake

 

[begreen]

There's no rubber stopper. That would not stand up to the heat. (At least not on our T6) In order to remove the door you first need to remove the keeper arm at the bottom of the door that stops the door from opening too wide. Do this by removing the two bolts where it attaches to the stove body. After that, the door can be lifted off the hinges.


As for the glass gasket, can you see it around the perimeter of the glass between it and the stove body? That is where it does its sealing. The excess on the firebox side does nothing. Do you see signs of uneven burning and sooting up of the glass in a particular area? That would indicate a bad seal in that area. I'm not sure why they sent out gasket cement, that is for the door gasket. Can you post a picture of the problem area?

 

[Patriot21]

Begreen,

Thank you for your response. I was confused about the rubber part they mentioned as well, didn't really make any sense to me. I did unattach the keeper arm you are talking about (except I took the nut off on the door side and kept the arm attached to the stove), however I could not get the door to budge. I took a picture of what I believe is the top pin on the hinge. Does it need to line up with that hole above it in order to lift it off?

Yes, I see the excess gasket on the inside of the stove, and the gasket on the outside of the stove. Unfortunately it is now not all around the outside as it has become removed and slid into the inside of the stove. I took a picture of that and of the gasket on the other side of the stove, it is barely together over there, fraying bad. Does this gasket need any cement on either side of the glass to work or does it rely solely on pressure? And also yes, sooting would occur exactly where the gasket broke, and I would see whisps of flame continuously in that same area, seeming to originate right on the glass. Let me know if you need any more pictures.

Thank you,
Jake

 

[Patriot21]

 

[begreen]

Yes, that glass gasket looks pretty ratty. The door lifts up with the top pin going into that hole and the bottom pivot pin coming out of the bottom hinge hole. The door is heavy! Open it about 45º and lift up.

 

[bcrtops]

Those pins can loosen up in the cast door. I had an issue of having a too short of pin that slid down into the cast door -- leaving me holding the hot door. Longer pin needed. They, may, also loosen up and work their way up. If this happens, you can take a long punch & access through a hole in the top of the stove -- driving the pin back into the cast door. Been there & have had both problems. In my opinion this is the weakest design point of the whole stove -- a heavy cast door hanging on 2- 1/4" pins. Nonetheless, they have stood the test of time on our stove other than our upper pin being too short from the factory (or hole in cast door being drilled too deep). & the pins becoming loose, allowing them to rotate in the door. At any rate, either problem is easily fixed.

 

[begreen]

Good to know. I've only had the door off once in 11 yrs. No issue with the pin or wear so far.

 

[Patriot21]

I got the door off. My pin didn't line up with the hole above it, so I had to loosen the bolts that hold the frame onto the side of the stove. Then the door slid enough to where I could line it up to take it off. Fairly easy looking back on it.

Anyone know if it is as important to get an OEM gasket for the window as it is for the door? Does the gasket adhere to the inside part of the window?

 

[begreen]

This is a warranty issue. The dealer should use the OEM gasket material.

 

[Patriot21]

Thank you very much guys