almost ready to install stove and need some help

[Danno77]

well, the wife says "NO" to the proposed installation location. I'm ok with that FOR NOW. I'm sure that in the middle of the winter when she is cold because I set the thermostat at something like 66 she'll start reconsidering, then i can buy a second stove

Anyhoo, how do i install a stove pipe onto this stove collar? instructions in the manual don't clarify and every stove that I've seen can have the pipe slide down far enough in there to either just leave it or install with screws if you drill through the heavy collar first. There is a flue damper right there and it's about an inch from the top, it's welded in place, and if I set the stove pipe there it wobbles back and forth because it's barely in there.

Do I cut slits into the pipe on opposite sides so that it straddles that damper's rod? that seems lame if so.

This is a Summer's Heat model bought at lowes (same as the Englander 12-FP) so surely there are others out there who have done this.

 

[Danno77]

oh, and the new location will be installed where the old fireplace was, not near as cool as where I wanted it...

 

[Danno77]

darn, I was hoping someone would have run into something similar before. I was thinking I might get to this install tonight or in the next couple of days.

 

[Summertime]

There is a fitting called an appliance adapter that you need,mine had a hose clamp style fitting for the liner and pinned in place through the top of my insert.
The adapter came with my stove.

 

[BrotherBart]

I would put a couple of little cut-outs in the pipe. But before I did I would call Englander's 800 number and ask the folks what they suggest. The have sold thousands of the stoves and it has to be a common question.

 

[Summertime]

The pin slips through the appliance adapter to hold the liner in place

 

[Danno77]

The pin slips through the appliance adapter to hold the liner in place

that pin doesn't slip through anything. the damper plate is welded to it.

 

[BrotherBart]

The pin slips through the appliance adapter to hold the liner in place

that pin doesn't slip through anything. the damper plate is welded to it.

Summertime's Jotul insert and your stove are two different animals. With yours if it is being installed free standing you don't use an appliance adapter like he has. You install the crimped end of the stove pipe into the flue collar.

f

 

[summit]

Do I cut slits into the pipe on opposite sides so that it straddles that damper's rod? .

yes.

 

[Summertime]

After enlarging the pic I see that is a damper and not a pin like my Jotul, at a fast glance it looked similar to my stove...oops!

 

[tiber]

oh, and the new location will be installed where the old fireplace was, not near as cool as where I wanted it…

I don't think this is how you're supposed to take advantage of reflected heat...

 

[Danno77]

oh, and the new location will be installed where the old fireplace was, not near as cool as where I wanted it…

I don't think this is how you're supposed to take advantage of reflected heat...

HA, well, that's where I wanted it, but she wasn't happy with the size of the hearth I proposed (hey, gotta follow what the manual states) and she also is paranoid about the baby being around it, in spite of having used the fireplace safely around Ethan since he was two, and also in spite of my claims that I could manufacture baby proof rails around it, etc.....

 

[John_M]

Danno,
Based on your two photos, I would suggest the stovepipe be inserted directly into the stove's flue opening without modifying anything or securing the stovepipe with screws. It is a straight vertical run of pipe from the 90 deg. elbow/thimble at the wall. If the stove pipe has been assembled according to the manufacturer's instructions the weight of the pipe should keep it solidly in place in the flue opening.

However, based on what I see in the second photo, I would be very concerned about stove and stove pipe clearances from the back wall and the size of your hearth. Perhaps it is an optical illusion but it appears those clearances do not meet any manufacturer's or code requirements. It looks downright dangerous to me. I hope it is an optical illusion.

Best wishes,

John_M

 

[120inna55]

Sorry to dig up an old thread, but my question is the same.

If he's using single-wall pipe, then yes, the crimped end goes inside the flue collar and the "pin" is not an issue. However, if he's using double-wall (like myself), the inner wall is crimped and goes inside, while the outer wall flares a bit. The result is still that the "pin" will not allow the pipe to sit flush.

So, is the aforementioned advice to carve out notches a good idea? It's what I initially had planned to do.

Along the same lines, is screwing pipe to the collar necessary if it's a straight through the roof pipe? If screws are necessary, it would mean drilling pilots through that pretty thick collar.